NGK Spark Plug

I already have been running for two weeks with BPR6HS , So doubt that the piston and the plug have been touching, Just going by what Norman said.

The main difference has been and increase in performance.

BPR6HS is on the left of the pic and on the right B6HS.

Thanks for the help.
 

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the plug on the left goods pretty good to me and with that extended electrode like that it would able to get the fire lit better that the stock plugs you've all seen the poor boy hot rodding of the ground electrode that I do as told to me by a guy in Mo. that competes in chainsaw racing this plug that you've got wouldn't need to be modified. with that plug the flame kernel will be right in the middle of the compressed fuel mix , it may be the way to go.
Now I'm going to have to go to the engine shops and look at the plugs and see what I can come up with in a champion plug.
 
Marc - wow good shot of the "P" plug - that looks like a nice way to go, I must admit. I'm thinking "NEXT"!!! Thanks for posting.

Yes a slight effective CR raise and sparking near the center. Suweeett!(^)
 
Saddletramp1200 said:
Killer Pic Marc! Looks like I could just reach forward and pick up the plug!
Click to expand...


Thanks for the complement :o

I am not much fro writing but least a pic is worth a thousand words,(^)

I had my bike up to 32 miles per hour this morn, then I backed off and
Went back down to cruising speed which is around 25 to 27 MPH.
But I am no sure that I believe my odometer:D
 
ebmvegan said:
Thank's! The last thing I want to do is to wait for another part to fix my tinkering.
Click to expand...

Maybe norm would know if you have enough clearance which engine do you have, :D

I know how you feel I was not able to use my bike for almost three weeks due to problems and rain!:crash:

I very happy now that it seems to run ok!(^)
 
.020-.025 gap.
Clearance, not much.
If you gap the projected reach plug too much, it will be re-gapped when you try to start the engine.
 
MarcPhotoMan said:
Maybe norm would know if you have enough clearance which engine do you have, :D

I know how you feel I was not able to use my bike for almost three weeks due to problems and rain!:crash:

I very happy now that it seems to run ok!(^)
Click to expand...

I have a ch80. I went ahead and tried to get the NGK but Kragen didn't have them. So instead I got the Autolite which is comparable...sort of. Big performance difference to the stock. Although now on long straight aways at full throttle, the bike vibrates so much that the fuel flow gets interrupted. I have to ease off a little and let it settle then open up again.
 
ebmvegan said:
I have a ch80. I went ahead and tried to get the NGK but Kragen didn't have them. So instead I got the Autolite which is comparable...sort of. Big performance difference to the stock. Although now on long straight aways at full throttle, the bike vibrates so much that the fuel flow gets interrupted. I have to ease off a little and let it settle then open up again.
Click to expand...

I am Glad it worked out for you it seems like an easy way to increase the compression and the fun factor too(^)^5

My bike does not seem to vibrate to much but check my mounting bolts often.
 
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I recently purchase a NGK B6HS and it is longer in the thread section than the Kings stock, LD Z8c, by about a 1/16", and the plug wire cap doesn't fit on the plug it is to small ?

Any knowledge on this ?
 
I just found that the top of the SP screws off and now appears similar in size and fit to the stock !

Looks like that part of my problem is solved or at least makes sense,
 
My engine is sputtering, the old spark plug 3 tanks plus, seemed like it must have been burning hot, the carbon deposit could be chipped off the
sparker section, so I cleaned it with a light emery buffing and some C Cleaner but it doesn't seem to help, I have the new NGK B6HS, but haven't tried it yet !

I am not sure about the paper filter I installed on the line, any comment is welcome, it getting gas, but it definitely is sputtering without the power.
 
It ain't the spark plug ! I have the air filter off, since this problem started, I can't keep it running without that, now I am finding that I need to choke it to get it going then throttle more or less and juggle the choke while moving, I now am emptying the tank to look at the inner tank filter, it is emptying through the line filter so I guess that's ok.

Correction it stopped running freely through the installed line filter, but I really don't know how that is suppose to be ?
 
Must have been air or gravity its emptying ok now, but then if it's emptying the tank filter must be OK ? looks like I am headed for carburetor
inspections ?
 
I did notice some oil escaping the hose connections left from the evaporated gas, during running must be mystifying from vibration and getting into the air filter, I cleaned the air filter, and used C Cleaner in the carb, could there be something I'm missing that would concern this fouling.
 
Wheel Rush said:
I did notice some oil escaping the hose connections left from the evaporated gas, during running must be mystifying from vibration and getting into the air filter, I cleaned the air filter, and used C Cleaner in the carb, could there be something I'm missing that would concern this fouling.
Click to expand...

Check your motor mounts. If they get loose it will cause excessive vibration and cause the fuel to froth inside the carb bowl thus causing a lean mixture to the cylinder and sputter. Just a thought.
 
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