New in-frame chainsaw build

lol NormO, they're asking and taking notes, send them here, heh heh. The Apex is a nice bike, and I see what you mean about clearances, it is a weird shock set-up.

For the curious, here's a page from CT on that bike, just above the pic there's a 360 degree view, drag the slider to circle the bike, and you can zoom too:
Apex CCM

btw Norm, nice thought on the tribute. She'll be a beaut!
 
I brought one of the decks home and took it apart it has strieght bevel gears. So it will run eather way and the input and output shafts are heavy 3/4". They would take a lot of power for there size. They are open bearing and run in oil or grease.(old and guie inside).
The only diferance is for mower deck the input shafts have the drive gear on the opesit ends to make the blades turn the same way.............Curt
 
I believe this is a similar Peerless unit. I bought it years ago for a project I have yet to start. Heck even forgot I had the thing. Anyway I looked at these in detail before I bought it. They could be had in all kinds of configurations. Reverse rotation and reductions. I was going to build a BMW inspired bike with a flat twin B&S with the engine tranverse, this was the final drive. Its a fairly HD unit, looks like a lot of a small engines HP would be lost in the transfer through it.
 
Forgot the pic!
 

Attachments

  • 001.JPG
    001.JPG
    70.8 KB · Views: 151
For right angle drive with a 5:1 reduction, check out the bussines end of a small angle grinder. Wouldn't be too hard to adapt one.

Another good option might be the gearbox from a polesaw head.
 
Thats it. You wouldn't happen to have the model # would you parst might be cheeper then Sears. I figured one could use sinthetic oil and it would turn a lot easyer,and you wouldn't need much. If you tip it on its side the gears would pick up the oil and splash like a briggs engine. Just two bevel gears inside and they would not take to much to turn, prolly just made heavy to take the abuse of a mower deck. It won't be for a while but I am going to give it a try with a 2 stroke 3hp unless I find a different motor in the mean time......Thats my thoughts.........Curt
 
Here are the Peerless#s 1000 014 is one set and I believe the model and spec#. The next set is 9026 2111. You can look these up here.http://www.outdoordistributors.com/parts.html They are probably obsolete as Tecumseh is gone, but you may find NOS. I doubt they are cheap. As I remember the were rated at 12+ hp. The rep I bought them from said more than that. I had planned to run 18hp through it via a torque converter which would have been easy on it. It is sealed and should hold oil so your plan will probably work. Makes me think of using an early 50s cast iron B&S 8hp(monster engine) I have turned with the shaft longitudinally in a custom frame-hmm...
 
Thanks I will look if you go to the Sears site I posted you can still get parts. I though I would order gasket and seals just incase they go out of stock..........Curt
 
Well I'd like to give it a try, if someone would be willing to part with one of the ra drives cheep!

Sry, I don't have cash flow probs... just got none! lol

(last time I saw a little bit, I bought another basketcase motorized bicycle!)

I do think the mower ra drives are pretty serious, and like W said, the grinders might be closer to our HP level, especially if a belt was involved to take up some of the shock transmitted in, and out of the unit...

I've got dead angle grinders here, stacking up! The prob with them is the gears strip out and they get tossed. The last ones I took apart has nylon gears in them.
In a bucket of them, I couldn't put enough good parts together to get even 1 running... IIRC, that batch was little milwaukees I got from a friends welding shop.

Totally mixed up assortment of cheapo ones, now. all ded !

I stopped by the pawn shop last week to look, and they wanted GOLD for one they seemed to think was really nice, just because they had the case for it.

Oh well.

Too many projects! lol
RA drive could have interesting build possibilities..

I'm thinking the best features of the HT is the internal clutch and reduction.

Best
rc
 
most of the 8hp mowers I have ever seen are single blades rear engine
my 38 inch decked mower uses a 12 hp briggs
the 42 uses a 14hp briggs and could use more power

just my opinion but those right angle drives are rated for much less then 8hp
take into account there are 2 blades and some power has to be left to move the tractor as they are spinning
if you have the parts already i say try em and build it and take lots of pics to show us
 
Curtisfox

before you get your knickers in a twist you might want to spend a few minutes looking through the link I posted. The prices are MUCH cheaper then Mcmaster or grainger.
 
I am a big scrounger and I all ready have three of the big gear boxes like the brush houg ones. ( want one ) My neighbor was a machinest and machanic in the railroad (retired now) I gave hime one and he has it in a V-8 60 flathead powerd motor cycle ( AWESOME ). I had him come over and look at the mower deck ones and said the are just as heavy as the big ones. They have 3/4" shafts witch is just as heavy as my 44" twin blade mower. I have never seen the mower these decks come off,Sears list them as a walk behind. So I don't know what HP they are. I know the 38" and that is a big blde for a 8 HP when my 44" is a 16 HP and two 22"blades. ( under powerd) Probable something else you never hered of it has a timed blade deck were it runs a notched beld for the blades, they over lap in the center.A big change came when they started with newer engines. The newer tractors have 20HP and the same size as the older tractors with 12 & 14 HP ones,like they use RPM's insted of the old brute torque. What is KOOOOL is the gear boxes are right & left so if one wants to run the chain on the pedal side you have a choice.................Curt...PS I have three of these decks allready and Sears list them for 182.00 or close to that.............Curt
 
I have 3 of those mower gearboxes. anybody wanna trade me outta one?
=_utf-8_B_SU1BRzAzNDguanBn_=.jpg

I think mower gearboxes are rated for a lot more horsepower than the mower engine. If they were rated at near the engine's power, they wouldn't be able to take the tough licks like they get when hitting stumps, bricks, rocks ect. I am amazed at the stuff I have hit with them and they survived. I don't pick up any limbs that the mower can easily run over, I just grind em up LOL
 
Last edited:
NormO said:
Sounds like they were used for the self-propelled mowers. Or were they from lawn tractor decks? If there what i'm thinking of, there should be a very good gear reduction. How much i'm not sure. And you know something along that line may just solve my little problem. Only i wouldn't want it to be right angled. Thanks for the idea curtisfox. I am now very glad i joined this forum, because i can't think of everything obviously.
Click to expand...

I'm sorry Norm, I thought you were interested in the gearboxes after reading this post. I did overlook where you said nix on the RA box, my apologies.

Very Honorable that you're doing this build for your deceased friend.
 
Last edited:
Here's the engine stripped of its fluff. Now it's time to get hacking the thing up.
I am interested in gearboxes but not 90 degree. A good primary gear reduction box would be good. Life would be so much better if i could mount a gearbox like what's on a 4 stroke engine.
So far the only suitable one's i've been able to find that would work are HUGE!!! Suitable for go-karts but not bicycles.
I'm kinda in a crunch for space right now unless i give up on this frame and find something else.
Might be able to rig up the gearbox from my old electric bicycle motor. It's only a 5:1 reduction or so i've been told. but it's pretty small.
 

Attachments

  • engine.jpg
    engine.jpg
    266.2 KB · Views: 136
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top