New engine seems seized?

Congratulations, BoardTrack. We're glad you are back on the road.
Have fun and ride safe.

Tom
 
When you put the bearing and bucking bar back in, they must not have returned to the exact same position as before. I was going to suggest tweaking the position of the flower nut, but you got there already. Glad to hear it's running again for you.
 
CTripps said:
When you put the bearing and bucking bar back in, they must not have returned to the exact same position as before. I was going to suggest tweaking the position of the flower nut, but you got there already. Glad to hear it's running again for you.
Click to expand...

Great advice, I had noticed that one side of the cylindrical bar had a silver dimple that i'm sure is because of the pressure from the bearing. Just a nice indicator to what side goes in first.
Thanks and I love the support on the forum!

Just a quick question that I don't believe deserves its own thread, here goes;

If there is a little bit of brownish color on the plastic sleeve (blue side) covering the lobster claw contacts, could that mean I have a burned out magneto coil?(The bike isn't running but it is -3℉ outside haha. So Im not too concerned)
If You guys/and gals think I should make a new thread with pictures and all let me know if it would possibly help you and others in the future! Drive safe and I hope your all warm!
 
A quick search of the site should provide you with the Ohm meter readings you should get off a magneto. If you have a problem there, it'll (probably) be due to the poor soldering work when it was assembled. When you're testing check at the ends of the wires, and also where they're soldered to the coil. If you get a reading at the coil but not at the end of the wire, it's probably a bad solder joint.

Here's an excerpt from a thread on the topic called "testing a magneto", posted by 2door:

2door said:
If you have an ohm meter, your dad will know how to use it, try this:

Use Low Ohm-Meter Scale About 200 Ohms

Magneto Coil

1) Check Ohms between BLACK wire and WHITE wire. Reading should be around 2 Ohms
2) Check ohms between BLUE wire and WHITE wire. Should be around 300-400 ohms.

CDI

Use Ohm Meter High Scale About 200-K
1) Positive lead on BLUE wire and Negative lead on BLACK wire should read infinite (no activity)
2) Positive lead on BLACK wire and Negative lead on BLUE wire. Should be about 130-150 K-ohms
3) Positive lead on Spark Plug wire and negative lead on BLUE wire. Should read between 135-155 K-ohms

Switch to Low Scale 20K
4) Measure between Spark Plug wire and Black lead. Should be about 2.5 - 2.7 K- ohms

As for keeping water/dirt out. Make sure the gasket is good or seal it with a small bead of silicone and fill the hole where the wires exit the case with the same silicone sealer.

Tom
Click to expand...

Go have a quick read of that thread and you'll understand more about what's going on.
 
So I tested all the wires and they gave me really odd readings. I might as well start a thread, I don't think this is gonna be an easy fix.
 
looks like Im having a problem also with my crank engine has never been fired tried starting it and could hear the piston pumping but felt air on my leg so I tighten down the head more and now the crank and piston seems seized took off the whole top end so now just the rod and bottom magneto will not move at all seems seized is there a fix for this?:-||
 
you need to find out where it is stuck - may be as simple as a piece of something stuck in the clutch gears
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top