Need advice on Oil mixture

I use the higher octane because the difference in cost is just pocket change. If it burns cleaner and doesn't contain the ethanol.. all the better.

Shobiz - when you pull that small rod out make sure not to lose the spherical ball behind it. Mine dropped out and had absolutely NO grease on it. So I greased that up too.

Hey Wicked - where do you find the Valvoline synthetic 2 cycle oil? I'm using the conventional Valvoline oil which works great but I might switch to synthetic after the break in period.
 
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The higher the octane number, the more compression the fuel can withstand before detonating - that's all it means. Ethanol is often used to raise the octane level of gasoline & the higher the octane rating is the more expensive the fuel is - as ethanol blended fuel phase separates (shelf life 30-60 days) & given that price for "premium", it's very likely that when you spend extra on that "better" fuel you are in actuality getting more ethanol not less & some amount of water mixed in for your troubles.

"stuck using 87 octane and had to change a top end shortly after doing that"

Interestingly this may have very little to do with a "clean burn" and more to do with the cleansing properties of ethanol - w/e the case if there's "crap in the gas" it's not the octane rating, it's time to find a different fuel station.
 
and thats why i solely use mobil gas...got a local joint only sells 87 for dirt cheap...blew up a lawnmower and a weed eater...and that bgf engine...crap in the gas was exactly the issue...but honestly the cam2 gas does make MY bike go faster...believe it or not...up to you...but thanks for the info on the combustion, and the gas "octane" meaning...can always count on you for valuable info...
 
Groove said:
Hey Wicked - where do you find the Valvoline synthetic 2 cycle oil? I'm using the conventional Valvoline oil which works great but I might switch to synthetic after the break in period.
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i get my 2smoke from auto zone...like 7 bucks a quart as opposed to the other stuff they sell which is 18 bucks for 4.2 ounces...
 
Toadmund said:
I have been using high octane because the lower octane contains up to 10% ethanol.
Ethanol is not the best for your little motor.
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There are no rubber o-rings or anything else in the carbs of the chinese two strokes. Ethanol isn't hurting anything.
 
2door said:
You're going to have folks tell you not to use synthetic oil for break-in. This is an old argument that has been discussed here and other places for years. I've never actually run a true synthetic but I'm one of those odd-balls who uses a brand of oil called Opti-2 @ 100:1. It is a semi-synthetic and I've broken in quite a few engines on it.

We always recommend to follow the oil maufactuers directions and to totally disregard the instructins that tell you to run 16:1. That has been determined to be too much oil and can cause spark plug fouling and exhaust/muffler problems. An initial mix or 24:1 for the first few tanks of fuel, or a couple of gallons, then move to a 32:1 mix. This will apply for standard 2 stroke oil. Stay away from outboard motor oil. It is formulated for water cooled engines and might not be able to take the heat generated by an air cooled engine.

Hope this helps.

Tom
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I've just had
2door said:
You're going to have folks tell you not to use synthetic oil for break-in. This is an old argument that has been discussed here and other places for years. I've never actually run a true synthetic but I'm one of those odd-balls who uses a brand of oil called Opti-2 @ 100:1. It is a semi-synthetic and I've broken in quite a few engines on it.

We always recommend to follow the oil maufactuers directions and to totally disregard the instructins that tell you to run 16:1. That has been determined to be too much oil and can cause spark plug fouling and exhaust/muffler problems. An initial mix or 24:1 for the first few tanks of fuel, or a couple of gallons, then move to a 32:1 mix. This will apply for standard 2 stroke oil. Stay away from outboard motor oil. It is formulated for water cooled engines and might not be able to take the heat generated by an air cooled engine.

Hope this helps.

Tom
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I ran opti 2in new 80cc just got it running yesterday.I put 3.5 1 gallon pals in 2.5 gal. of 93 octane gas.let it idle for no more than 20 30 minutes tops and it siezed on me.What do think?
 
Keenan Collins said:
I've just had

I ran opti 2in new 80cc just got it running yesterday.I put 3.5 1 gallon pals in 2.5 gal. of 93 octane gas.let it idle for no more than 20 30 minutes tops and it siezed on me.What do think?
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NEVER LET A ENGINE IDLE TO BREAK IT IN!!!! It needs the air blowing over it to keep it cool (& it also needs to have high RPMs to break in properly).

It sounds like you just killed your new engine. :(
 
2door said:
You're going to have folks tell you not to use synthetic oil for break-in. This is an old argument that has been discussed here and other places for years. I've never actually run a true synthetic but I'm one of those odd-balls who uses a brand of oil called Opti-2 @ 100:1. It is a semi-synthetic and I've broken in quite a few engines on it.

We always recommend to follow the oil maufactuers directions and to totally disregard the instructins that tell you to run 16:1. That has been determined to be too much oil and can cause spark plug fouling and exhaust/muffler problems. An initial mix or 24:1 for the first few tanks of fuel, or a couple of gallons, then move to a 32:1 mix. This will apply for standard 2 stroke oil. Stay away from outboard motor oil. It is formulated for water cooled engines and might not be able to take the heat generated by an air cooled engine.

Hope this helps.

Tom
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Hay KCCOLLINS here I sent out a message.Used 3.5 1gal.mixes of opti2 in 2.5 gallons of 93.octane let bike idle 20 minutes or so came back it's siezed.Should opti2 have to cover this.I took off head tapped head with hammer and wooden rod won't move any suggestions
 
Keenan Collins said:
Hay KCCOLLINS here I sent out a message.Used 3.5 1gal.mixes of opti2 in 2.5 gallons of 93.octane let bike idle 20 minutes or so came back it's siezed.Should opti2 have to cover this.I took off head tapped head with hammer and wooden rod won't move any suggestions
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Got the piston in stuck with
 
Got my piston unstuck with penetrating oil and hit a wooden hammer handle with another hammer runs good now.The clutch keeps engaging on and off in idle sometimes stalling the engine.I've adjusted the butterfly nut over and over any ideas?
 
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