my henderson tribute

If I can find it I have the formula on how to maltiply the ratio and get the spped see if I can find it tomorow. Yep that should work............Curt
 
curtisfox said:
You need to switch the first two around.# 3 to 2 then back to 3 you don't gain anything. That is seping up then back down. It would be the same as 3 to 10 to start with. With belt drive you just devide 3 by 2 and it will give you the ratio. With out geting the calculator out I think you should be around 2 to 5 or 6 then 2 to 10 hope that helps........Curt
Click to expand...

=========================

from MT

for ratio and speeds

see my post #39 on DIY Re: Art Fish Mobile Motor Bike prior Motor Bike DIY'er build to add side car maybe?

I have a 26 inch wheel drive so it has a rdius of 13 inch.... use your wheel size for the speed it woulod get given the ratio developed with the pulleys you use.

The 2 to 6 then 2 to 10 is:

(6/2) times (10/2) = 3 times 5 = 15 reduction ratio.

I think CT has it about right for a 24 to 26 inch wheel that would go quite fast, but not very much torque for a small engine 3 hp and under.

I will be looking at a 22 reduction but will only have top speed of 12mph, and I'm OK with that because I want to go on dirt bike trails climbing hills, not so much speed.

MT


http://motorbicycling.com/showthread.php?p=384593#post384593
 
I had a 2hp Briggs a long time ago and got up all the roads I went on my way to the woods OK without needing to walk it. This was with an 8 reduction ratio.

In the woods I took a running start of about 100ft to go up the more steep climbs. I'd get up to maybe 20mph and then climb the up a hill length of 50ft I estimate to be about 10 feet tall (20% grade) an 11 degree angle.

Where a 100% grade is a 45 degree angle, not something I could do on a motor bike or bicycle most likely.

After moving to California, I had done some 14% grades (about 8 degree angle) in the Santa Cruz Mountains on bike with granny gear, but I was not sure if it were the crank loosening or my knees that made that clicking sound!

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Grade_(slope)
http://www.trimbleoutdoors.com/ViewTrip/196611

Probably be fine using that 15 reduction on grades 7 percent (about 4 degree angle) and less. There probably is formula for HP/Torque with and total weight of machine to go up an amount of grade without stalling, but the running start worked for me back then.

MT
 
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thanks again MT, so it depends on the hills. Around here it's so flat, a person probably could roll a bowling ball halfway to minneapolis without half trying :D
 
Finally got my rear wheel laced up, so now I just need to do some adjustments to it, and make up my mind on if I'm using belt drive, or chain.


Pics of the wheel are in the album, link below.

Cheers, charlie
 
Okay, I have decided to go with chain drive. I found a #40 clutch and the original moped drive chan is long enough to use so I'm in the clear with the drive setup!


I had to cut the blue section of neck tube off again, because I learned that it was a small bit too short and my bent top tube would not mate up correctly. I've got 3 of these old “holiday" women's frames, so I guess I can just take a walk down to the bone yard and collect my next victim.

I have found a method to make gas tank halves out of 18 gauge sheetmetal, and I'm making a small one for my 53 columbia bike that currently has my china girl in, so when I get the new neck-tube thing on there, I can make a wooden drift and begin to tap out tank halves. I'm going to use the wooden drift for the columbia in a rat rod bike's project, hollowed it out with a major dado cut and added a small door in the bottom. Now I just half to burn the design into the side, and stain it!

I found a old tri spring seat that's about the size of your average thanksgiving turkey, so now I've got to learn the art of seat re-covering. My grandma's antique singer might be called back into service, seeing as that thing can make it through 40 year old horse hide, I'm shure it can handle a piece of new leather!

And to remove rust, soak the seat frame in white vinegar for a few days? Thanks for reading, the project is still awake, just with frequent starting and stopping (and lots of fishing trips inbetween)
 
Vinegar is for the kitchen. Lots of products out there are just as inexpensive and work much better...Hotwire works very well, even humidifier de-scaler,or CLR works well (use it outside....some pretty icky fumes)
 
okay, il see if i can borrow mom's CLR for a while. and on the seat, i need to braze a bunch of holes and cracks shut in the pan before it's ready to cover.
 
Okay, I had k but of an idea on how to post pics in the body of the message,

picture.php
 
Not much progress has been made on this. I still am slowly plugging away at it though. And a question; I've nicked a little lincolin arc welder and a few 6011, 6013 and 718 electrodes. I'm famliliar with arc welding, but I'm curious if that would be a prudent idea to use the 6013's to finish the frame? And a second question; if I cranked the amps way down could I weld the tank metal without burning through?

Charlie
 
6011 is pretty good, but 6013 is probably one of the easiest steel rods to arc weld with. Save the 7018's for really heavy stuff. Depending on the rod diameter and your metal thickness you might be able to use them, but it would be pretty damn tricky; if you are not extreeeeeeeeemly skilled, don't bother trying, you will probably just burn things full of holes...a lot of heat in an arc welder. In any case, if you do decide to give it a go, I would suggest you bake 'em in moms oven first to drive any residual moisture out, you will get a much cleaner weld, especially if the rods are old.
 
Insted of 6113 Try 7014 witch is the same except the 7014 is a contat rod you can hold it agenest the metal and move right along. Much easer to use.............Curt
 
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