MrLarkins Upgrades
- Thread starter MrLarkins
- Start date
Ah so. You need a cable end thingy like this:
Bike Tools Etc. - 1000's of bicycle tools and parts for the home mechanic!
Your LBS should have them (even some well supplied hardware joints have them)
OR you can score a stock one (somewhere)
Bike Tools Etc. - 1000's of bicycle tools and parts for the home mechanic!
Your LBS should have them (even some well supplied hardware joints have them)
OR you can score a stock one (somewhere)
ok, i put that on hold til i can run to the store...tried to put the pedals back on...wouldn't you know it...both sets i have are too small to fit the crank arm that came with the shifter kit. ugh! got to buy new pedals now.
so i moved on to the final upgrade...the expansion chamber muffler setup...i need a pipe to extend what was sent so that it will be out of the way of everything. will the length of exhaust pipe before the expansion chamber matter?
so i moved on to the final upgrade...the expansion chamber muffler setup...i need a pipe to extend what was sent so that it will be out of the way of everything. will the length of exhaust pipe before the expansion chamber matter?
Did you read the expansion chamber installation instructions? It describes the effects of lengthening or shortening the length of the pipe before the expansion chamber. It should also help you install it as well.
It should mount up like this.
It should mount up like this.
Attachments
Last edited:
ok, i put it all back together and TRIED to take it for a short spin around the block, but i wasn't getting any turn over...i took the magento cover off and tried it again the the mag thingy isn't spinning! so i checked, and the piston isn't moving up/down either...then i took the spark plug out and pedaled and they (mag & piston) started doinjg what they are supposed to do!
ideas?
ideas?
Last edited:
Sounds like you clutch is slipping if without compression, ie no spark plug it turns over but with the spark plug it won't. That would be the first place to look.
huh? is that english or mechanicese? please bring it down a few more levels for me please.
MrLarkins,
I assume you have aquired a clutch cable stop?
You need to have the clutch return spring in place! The factory actuator does not require the return spring due to the Cam profile.
From what you have described, I am certain that the clutch is not fully engaging, (slipping),...The return spring that comes with the kit will ensure that the clutch cable arm is pushed back after releasing the clutch lever.
Try peddaling FAST, and then pop the clutch lever. Don't release it slowly...let go quick!
Refrain from making any unnecessary clutch adjustments. It will only complicate things. Give me a call if you have any more problems with your clutch.
Jim
I assume you have aquired a clutch cable stop?
You need to have the clutch return spring in place! The factory actuator does not require the return spring due to the Cam profile.
From what you have described, I am certain that the clutch is not fully engaging, (slipping),...The return spring that comes with the kit will ensure that the clutch cable arm is pushed back after releasing the clutch lever.
Try peddaling FAST, and then pop the clutch lever. Don't release it slowly...let go quick!
Refrain from making any unnecessary clutch adjustments. It will only complicate things. Give me a call if you have any more problems with your clutch.
Jim
If you have a large hobby shop in your area that specializes in Radio control models...they have the cable stops for less than $1.00. Ask them for one that has a .055"-.062" through hole. If you can't find one, I'll make you one...these are a pain to make, (on a one-off basis), so please check your local area hobby shops first.
If you have any more problems with your clutch, call me! Tell Karen I asked you to call. She screens the calls so I can work.
Jim
I found cable stops at a local bike shop that caters to raceing and mountain riders. I needed to cut the lead plug off the end of the OEM brake cables to put through the dual bake lever.
These are very nice. Hex brass with an allen head setscrew. Nothing sticking out and easy to tighten with a allen wrench and a small Crescent. They were less than a buck each.
Jim
These are very nice. Hex brass with an allen head setscrew. Nothing sticking out and easy to tighten with a allen wrench and a small Crescent. They were less than a buck each.
Jim
Seems to me the clutch needs dialing in. First thing, make sure the clutch pucks are free floating in the hub holes. Jim will touch on this when you call him. It's pretty easy.
ok, i think i've narrowed it down. it has to do with the new clutch arm/actuator. Jim, it seems that when pulled, the arm slips on the shaft, and the returns spring doesn't push the clutch arm all the way to its disengaged position. there are no grooves/key to keep it from spinning on its own shaft...suggestions?
you might also notice that i had to shorten a u-bolt length b/c it was hindering (blocking it outright) the arm pull
you might also notice that i had to shorten a u-bolt length b/c it was hindering (blocking it outright) the arm pull
Attachments
Last edited:
hehe, that's the 3rd/4th/or5th time someone has said to call Jim...guess I'll call him.
ok, called jim (caught him in the shower, oops, sorry) Thanks for calling me back! ok, here's the deal...you were right, once the motor is going, that arm returns to its fully disengaged position (i got it running, woohoo!), but the catch is the start. if i pull the clutch in before i start, i have to manaully move it to fully disengaged, seems the return spring isn't strong enough.
It's cooling down outside right now, I'm going to check all the connections and take it for another spin soon. will post up full pictures for everyone to DROOL over!
It's cooling down outside right now, I'm going to check all the connections and take it for another spin soon. will post up full pictures for everyone to DROOL over!