MrLarkins Upgrades

Discussion in 'Motorized Bicycle Welding, Fabrication and Paintin' started by MrLarkins, Jun 25, 2009.

  1. Pablo

    Pablo Master Bike Builder & Forum Sponsor

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    Very excellent!
     
  2. MrLarkins

    MrLarkins HS Math Teacher

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    new problem...i had ordered/installed the upgraded clutch pull arm which had a thicker cover ...mounting the left bearing plate from the jackshaft kit didnt fit just right...so i am off to lowes for a couple more washers and longers hex bolts.

    **EDIT**
    lowes didn't have exactly what i needed...i probably could have found SOMETHING that might have worked...but i'll try ace hardware tomorrow.

    i attached a picture of my dilema...pablo?? any suggestions?

    and my chain seems loose...i have 15 outside links, but it is still a bit loose...is that normal?
     

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    #22 MrLarkins, Jul 6, 2009
    Last edited: Jul 6, 2009
  3. jimraysr

    jimraysr New Member

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    Is the apparent mis-alignment of the chain due to the camera lens?

    Jim
     
  4. MrLarkins

    MrLarkins HS Math Teacher

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    probably...

    i can hold the chain straight, but not tight, and the left bearing plate (top) barely fits into the plate (about 1mm worth)
     

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    #24 MrLarkins, Jul 7, 2009
    Last edited: Jul 7, 2009
  5. Pablo

    Pablo Master Bike Builder & Forum Sponsor

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    As Jim told you off line, you'll need another 5/8" washer. Plus you can pull back on the plate after you loosen the bolts. I know our kit will work with the CE clutch mod, because that's the set up I have on my mountain bike. I had to also use longer bolts to get more thread engagement.
     
  6. MrLarkins

    MrLarkins HS Math Teacher

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    hadn't checked the email machine until i just saw your post
     
  7. MrLarkins

    MrLarkins HS Math Teacher

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    lol, i love working on this project...keeps the mind sharp

    Jim? did I do something wrong here? Possible solutions?
     

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  8. Ghost0

    Ghost0 New Member

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    Nope, you didn't do anything wrong. You just happen to have one of those engines that has some funny hole spacings. This is why we supply the button head bolts. But with the button heads you will need to use the optional clutch cover mounting method. I would recommend that anyway as it makes adjusting the clutch easier anyway.
     
  9. MrLarkins

    MrLarkins HS Math Teacher

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    are you referring to 'METHOD 2' in the instructions?
     
  10. Ghost0

    Ghost0 New Member

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    That is correct, basically you just run the bolts through the clutch housing from the back side instead of the front and in your case use the button head bolt where you are having the interference. It will require you to remove the pockets on the clutch cover but that is pretty easy with a hacksaw.
     
  11. Pablo

    Pablo Master Bike Builder & Forum Sponsor

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    (and it will make removing your clutch cover in the future an F1 cool job)
     
  12. MrLarkins

    MrLarkins HS Math Teacher

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    ok, i got it...i used a dremel to cut and grind it and did a test fit...it worked! but it was still touching...i did get it all the way on though...right now, it is apart painting the parts yellow again...b/c i roughed them all up trying to work them into place. you 3 guys are a HUGE help!
     
  13. Ghost0

    Ghost0 New Member

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    No problem and there are just 2 of us, Jim aka Ghost and Paul aka Pablo. It is always interesting watching a build. How some go smooth and some take some tinkering. If all the engines were the same it would make life a little simpler but might take out some of the fun, or head ache depending on how you look at it.
     
  14. MrLarkins

    MrLarkins HS Math Teacher

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    now i'm tired...been working at it for some time today (took a break to go swimming with my 4 kids) and I am glad to say I'm at a break point.
    i have it mounted. i had to remove the pad on the clutch case and remove the adhesive as well...done that though. right now the new one is glued and setting up as i type. i must say, it is looking pretty sweet! the pictures don't show it, but i DO have all 3 chains on the bike

    finally, i am forseeing a clearance problem with the air filter...any suggestions before i get to that point?
     

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    #34 MrLarkins, Jul 7, 2009
    Last edited: Jul 7, 2009
  15. Ghost0

    Ghost0 New Member

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    Very nice, well done and everything seems assembled correctly as far as I can tell.

    I don't see any issues with the air filter, the manifold raises it a fair amount so I can't for see any problems.
     
    #35 Ghost0, Jul 7, 2009
    Last edited: Jul 7, 2009
  16. Creative Engineering

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    Looking good MrLarkins!!!

    I have a "shift kit" version of my clutch kit...If you have any problems, let me know.

    Jim
     
  17. MrLarkins

    MrLarkins HS Math Teacher

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    dang! i wish i would have known that before i bought mine... please elaborate on the differences between your two versions.
     
  18. Creative Engineering

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    The shifter kit version has a thinner housing...no cap screw counterbores, and a supply of shorter pins.

    Jim
     
  19. MrLarkins

    MrLarkins HS Math Teacher

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    ok, just a few more items and these upgrades are done...right now i am re-cabling it. and this clutch arm is new to me and i want to do it right the first time. check out the picture, and please tell me the correct way to attach the pull cable to that arm.
     

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  20. Ghost0

    Ghost0 New Member

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    Attaching the cable should be no different than before. It appears from your photo that your cable housing is not going through the cable end that sits under the carburetor. Then just attach the brass end with the set screw over the cable like you should have had on your stock set up.
     

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