Morini Troubleshooting

Absolutely Goat, I am gonna fix that play in the Bell! Big thanks for sharing what you have learned with the Morini. I will post all about it when I finally do it.

Yeah I forgot to share about the fuel......

I ran Turbo Blue Unleaded and had a little better throttle response, not much but did make a difference. And yes, I did use way less fuel, thats one thing I did notice big time.

Turbo Blue Unleaded is a high performance, street legal, competition gasoline formulated for carbureted, fuel-injected or turbo-charged performance engines. Ideal for compression ratios up to 12:1.In addition, Turbo Blue Unleaded is tested for no manganese and complies with regulations governing most major race sanctioning organizations and is street legal.d
Click to expand...
 
That lead me to a thought? What if it is oiling less at the better miles to gallon so to speak? Just a thought was tumbling that one in my head? Use less fuel get less oil..
 
Hey Guys
Just plunked down the money for a 9.4hp boxer the blue one ..Cant wait
will pick it up next friday...........Flex Man.........
 
Just joined this site, but am pretty seasoned with building, servicing, and operating motorbikes. Have been spending the last two weeks turning a Giant bicycle into an 11.4 hp liquid cooled morini hot ros. The build is almost complete, with only installation of exhaust to go. First thing I noticed is the morinis are totally different than the ht motors in the sense that they have absolutely no power without a pipe. The ht motors haul without a pipe! Or should the engine be pulling even without a pipe on the morini? Not sure bc this is my first morini. At any rate, looking forward to fabricating and mounting the pro circuit pipe and silencer I purchased. Will post pics when the build is complete.
 
Yes, different beast than a HT, two different worlds in build tolerances.
Don't run without a pipe, engine needs back pressure, could create a lean condition.
Clutch and engine need break-in time.
 
Thanks Emerica. I had to take the pipe to get fabricated in order to squeeze into the gap between the engine and frame. Exhaust looks so rad. This bike is fast! First time I took it for a test ride it scared the living daylights out of me. Wasnt expecting that kind of speed. I swear im hitting close to 55 or 60 mph. I was trembling when I got off the bike. Couple things I am weary on though. The clutch engages at a high rpm. And it will run for about a mile and then all of a sudden bog out. Fuel is open. I figured engine was getting too hot, so I made a scoop to channel air across the surface of the radiator. After I did that the engine stayed on, but after about 2 miles my rpms will not respond to the throttle. I turn gas and it maxes out at only about 40. No matter how much gas I give it the rpms stay the same. But when the bike runs after sitting for a while it is ridiculously fast. I wanna do 60 all the time! Why is the engine responding in this undesirable way? One more thing, is it safe to use antifreeze in the liquid cooled engines? Thanks!
 
Was admiring my morini today when i noticed a very sad distressful occurence: My seat tube is cracked right where the engine mounts connects. I shouldve put a thicker rubber spacer there. 6 months of riding, it was bound to happen. Should i weld it, or just get a new bike?
 
Here is a nice read for you... you decide? As for me I do not use rubber mounts what so ever and my engine is truly mounted ''solid''. https://www.google.com/url?q=http:/...ds-cse&usg=AFQjCNHutLoOwcwY2vDZN6p-t-XCizIZLA

I have never broke a engine mount ether with my present solid mounted engines. Thing is in my humble opinion mounted solid in a manner where it simply cannot vibrate no fatigue ever happens. I say good beefy solid welded mounts. That's just me.Perhaps think of it this way? Just trying to draw a picture with out to much typing . It's me bed time lol. If I just had any ol material and rattled it to heck to break it apart what would be the best way for me to efficiently to destroy something?


I got to work on bowling machines at one time. One of the things I go to watch was when the bushings were plumb wore out of one of the great big pin rakes,, the frame tubing would crack. ''the rattling effect' I had 30 other machines to compare this to.
 
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Im thinking of welding the crack, which is halfways around the downtube, and sliding a solid rob down at the point where the seat tube ends, to provide a solid base around the pinch point on the tube that meets the mount. A new bike is tempting though
 
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