Got the motor mounts welded in place and the coil and ignition module bracket welded in place. Now the search for a gas tank continues....
Morini S6-S Big Bore Build
- Thread starter DFlanagan
- Start date
nice caddie, please tell us more about the piston mod's [where how & who] nice work how you do the rear hub/sprocket mount? thanks dennis
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The project looks like its coming along pretty good. If I was to give any advice, just make sure the carb is leveled. Can wait to see the finished bike.
Hey Dennis on the hub and sprocket, I purchased a Nashbar rear hub with a disk brake mount, bought new spokes, and had my rear wheel laced and trued. The hub adapter I am using is called a top hat sprocket adapter. It attatches to the brake mount on the hub and the sprocket attatches to it. The top hat adapter comes in two offsets, .25" and .125". I believe this is the best way to attach a sprocket to a bicycle wheel. For the piston mod I have mentioned it in previous theads. Here is some pics.
I went ahead and bought some header wrap for my exhaust. I also purchased a chrome gas tank from JNMotors (last resort). I am waiting for my .625" sealed flanged bearings to come in so I can finish my chain tensioner. Hopefully I can have this bike on the road by this weekend! Here's a couple pics.
Thats a sick pipe I love it. I can TIG you up a behind the seat jug style tank if you really need one (based on a vintage motorcycle oil reservoir ). Just out of curiosity how much was your S6s with all the machine work?
Well, after re-mounting the motor not once, not twice, but three times (thanks to Dave for bringing the motor position issue to my attention). I finally got my bike together. I tell you what you DO NOT want a 16 yrs. old kid on this. Great acceleration , great top end, and still breaking it in. It's almost to the point of "too much power for a mountain bike". Love it! I will post some videos on youtube. I'm thinking of having my exhaust pipe bent a little more to level out the silencer. Here's some pics.
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Cool! This ended up being a real nice build. I have an ItaliJet pipe that looks like its been pounded with a pipe but it was done at the factory to clear the motor and frame it came from.
And, yeah, that's not a bike for a kid. Seems like none of them have any idea of how to own a bike like this. When they break things mama is supposed to get a new, better one that won't break. I wouldn't let my now 20 year old ride my bike, I know how he is...
And, yeah, that's not a bike for a kid. Seems like none of them have any idea of how to own a bike like this. When they break things mama is supposed to get a new, better one that won't break. I wouldn't let my now 20 year old ride my bike, I know how he is...
I am running a 11 tooth up front and a 52 tooth on a 26" rim. I'm still on my first gallon of gas. I'm waiting on finishing this gallon before I get on the throttle. The clutch will be next. I know this, it cruises with traffic pretty well!
Morini's have 2 versions of oil bath clutches, the 2 shoe and the stronger 3 shoe model. You can vari performance by using different oils, too. But I'm told Belray 80w(or is it 85)is the stuff to use.
When I raced gokarts the more expensive clutches were oil bath, too.
When I raced gokarts the more expensive clutches were oil bath, too.
They are the best clutches out there that I can find. But for $410.00 + shipping (Holeshot Clutch & Installation Kit), I would rather go with a S6 High Performance Complete Clutch Kit for $189.99 + shipping and deal with the washers. Just my opinion.
Yea D I know where you're coming from. Unless you're racing it's hard to justify spending 400 bucks on a clutch, especially when you can get a complete kit for half that. Just be sure you're spending good money on an OEM (Franco Morini) clutch, not one of the lesser quality knockoffs.
I can tell you from experience (remounting mine 3 different times), you really want to get that motor as horizontal as possible or you will have clutch lubricating problems. You should download the service manual and look at the way the clutch fluid rests inside of the clutch cover. The clutch should partially sit in the fluid when your bike is horizontal to the ground. It's better to learn this now before you weld your motor mounts to your bike.