Misfit Board Tracker

[Ralph hop]

With the Schwinn project on hold maybe until next winter. I've decided to use the 212cc engine on another bike because I'd like to have a less bulky two stroke dirtbike engine on the Schwinn. Picked an eBay fat tire frame but won't be using wide tires. It's called "misfit" for now because nothing fits on it. Got some free time and some parts gathered and haven't started on it yet except for the headset cups so I'll start this thread with a bare frame and tank. Frame is all tig welded and looks to be the same quality and producer of the cnol truss forks.

 

[Ralph hop]

 

[Ralph hop]

The head tube required flanged bushings as did the seat tube. The seat post took some effort and I don't think it's ever coming back out but the split clamp pipe collar looks stylish.

 

[Ralph hop]

Not much progress has been made except for fitting. Some good news and some less fortunate. Good news is the 110 mm wide bottom bracket will give me free pedal clearance with the 212 motor back to the AV89 motobecane hub. But the "bad news" = some finess on my part. Belt sanding the motor mounts at an angle and cutting excess material from a sloppily stamped clutch drum.

 

[Ralph hop]

 

[curtisfox]

KOOL build, you may end up with getting a better clutch later if I don’t perform. Also there is different springs you can get. Go-kart suppliers have them. And check out the forum for more dissuasion on it.............Curt

 

[MotoMagz]

Lol.. I had the non fat tire version of this frame..any you are correct nothing fits ..”The Misfit” What’s the rear spacing between dropouts? I just ordered some fatter wheels from Chopperwheels.com

 

[Ralph hop]

Rear spacing is 165mm. Rear hub has 200mm X 12 mm axle. Hoping to run a belt straight back but I still have the option to run chain with gears.

 

[Ralph hop]

Here's a pic. My skin is red from niacin flush.

 

[Ralph hop]

Would I be wrong to think I can run straight from the clutch to sheave without a reduction, as long as I can get enough wrap around the clutch pulley? Could try running a straight pulley on the crank instead and build a locking lever.

 

[Ralph hop]

Lol.. I had the non fat tire version of this frame..any you are correct nothing fits ..”The Misfit” What’s the rear spacing between dropouts? I just ordered some fatter wheels from Chopperwheels.com

The advertised spacing is 165mm but actual dropout spacing measures 171.45mm or 6 3/4 in. The tire clearance is about 165mm.

 

[Tony01]

With that clutch and its 3.2” pulley if you run a sheave as big as your rim you will be geared approx 6.5:1 on a 26” which is on the tall side but doable with a 212 built for low end.

Belt primary with chain rear works great. Remember to keep the bushing oiled. A drop of motor oil after ever ride.

 

[Ralph hop]

The middle inside diameter of the clutch pulley is 2.5 in. and plan to use a whizzer sheave which I think measures 20 in. Rear wheel will be 26in.

 

[MEASURE TWICE]

I tried 8:1 ratio with 26inch drive wheel connected in the math, if you know what I mean, and it was burning up the clutch with 3hp Briggs 4 stroke and bike weighing 75lb and me 135lb. I had 20:1 and it was good. Faster with 12:1 but hills cannot do nearly as well. The cogged belts, not synchronous drive like timing belt, helps go around smaller diameter pulley without as much heating and wear. I have not seen a manufacturer that makes a sheave pulley that attaches to spokes as large as 26" wheel, but DIY'ers have made their own of that type. With a twin jack shaft set up mixture of belts and chain, I once rode test ride only with 8:1 engine going 2500 rpm and it was really slow less than 10mph. Bronze Bushing oiled with regular 30 wight motor oil is good. Every now and then I take apart and clean bushing, pads, and drum.

 

[Tom from Rubicon]

Ralph, did I miss the source of your frame? Do you have a link?
Thanks,
Tom

 

[Ralph hop]

Seller holdwa on eBay. Nice man from Utah named Tom.

 

[Ralph hop]

I tried 8:1 ratio with 26inch drive wheel connected in the math, if you know what I mean, and it was burning up the clutch with 3hp Briggs 4 stroke and bike weighing 75lb and me 135lb. I had 20:1 and it was good. Faster with 12:1 but hills cannot do nearly as well. The cogged belts, not synchronous drive like timing belt, helps go around smaller diameter pulley without as much heating and wear. I have not seen a manufacturer that makes a sheave pulley that attaches to spokes as large as 26" wheel, but DIY'ers have made their own of that type. With a twin jack shaft set up mixture of belts and chain, I once rode test ride only with 8:1 engine going 2500 rpm and it was really slow less than 10mph. Bronze Bushing oiled with regular 30 wight motor oil is good. Every now and then I take apart and clean bushing, pads, and drum.

Thanks mt for sharing your first hand experience, I'll have to run a jackshaft. Sheave just came to the door and I doubt I'll have enough luck for a belt to line up straight with my universal style mount anyway. I do have a 44 tooth sprocket. 48t was sold out.

 

[Ralph hop]

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Board-Trac...ire-bicycle-frame-and-fuel-tank-/233499186187

 

[Ralph hop]

I'll say it was hard not to choose a sportsman frame. I thought hard about it. Pat has a nice looking tank and the specs I want, also sturdy frame construction. When I went over the options of my engine mount system and also wanting to try something different, chose this frame. To me this product and sportsman flyer's product are apples and oranges difference. I would like to find out if I can purchase a frame and engine mounting system only in the future. The website doesn't share much detail about sales options.

 

[indian22]

Ralph when you need something special, it typically doesn't exist on a website; the demand typically isn't enough to justify the mention of it. I often have to ask what's available or what can be produced as a custom order. I do that with wheels and hubs a lot and don't like personally lacing anymore. A few years ago custom fabrication was the only option, really expensive unless you built it yourself. Now a lot more cool stuff exists and is basically ready to ship. Quality varies yet a decent fabricator can deal with some variances. Misfits etc. are pretty common yet with some patience and skill many of these can be worked around... over time.
Price is a factor as is availability, quality and dependability of both product and vendor. I'm also a fan of Sportsman products for several reasons. He's a bike guy and has extensive fabrication skills and experience coupled with being an actual engineer. Fit & finish are really outstanding. He's also one of the early forum members and we're lucky to have several of these guys still posting and sharing with us.
I personally had not seen a 165mm loop frame offered by anyone, but think it a good idea as the Fat tire bikes are quite hot at the moment. I like the look of a wider rear tire and the softer ride as well. I think you've started a great project and am looking forward to following it's progress.

Rick C.