Maxxon Brake Light

[Ernst]

Maxxon Brake Light :: Hack!

Edit title: Was" Maxxon Brake Light" I believe I will get use of an interesting but useless device from my point of view. I will post the light hack as it gets done.
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I have a bad review of the other wise bright light I saw in the videos about the Maxxon Brake light.

First off it activates itself and doesn't know if it's a bump in the road or an actual braking event.
It's useless except for being a fancy blinking rear light.

The cheap brake lights with switch are more useful than this expensive Maxxon.

So here is my letter to the company... I doubt they care since they designed it and sell it to people who actually believe a Brake light is for braking.

There are excellent videos that I now understand to be hoaxes to fool people into thinking they are buying something useful and high tech.

To the manufactures and retailers of the Maxxon Brake light.


I fail to see how a light unit that turns on for motion such as a bump in the road is a brake light.
Wireless in this case means no external mechanical control. I suspect engineers who designed this Maxxon "brake" unit expected Extra Sensory Perception to be the driving technology at to when a real braking action is happening on a bicycle.

I bought a Maxxon brake light through ebay and after waiting for the ship to arrive from Asia I found your brake light unit worthless as a brake light.

I assumed this unit functioned as wireless brake light not a bump and any movement blinking light.
I have absolutely no control over when the brake light activates hence it's a fraud as a brake light. I expect to be safe in traffic not at risk because my "brake light is a Christmas tree ornament" that blinks on and off it it's will.

I paid high value to purchase your Maxxon product and I still must depend on a $9 brake light unit that works because I can control when the light functions.

I ride in auto and truck traffic on a bicycle for transportation so having a "brake light" that does what it to wants as it wants to is useless.

I left negative feed back on ebay as "useless"

I welcome conversation as to what will make your unit a functioning brake light over an independently operating "turn on for every" bump in the road light.
The first suggestion is a mechanical activation over motion detection. Ie need a brake light not an expensive blinking light.

I do like the light intensity but I will have to hack the unit to make activation mechanically remote.. There goes the wireless-ness and the High Tech-ness

This is a prime example of profiting on the ignorance of the buyer. That would be me.. I believed the videos.

YouTube - ‪MAXXON Wireless Brake Light Switch Mode 2‬‏


So any one hacked this light to make it an actual brake light? The LED's are excellent bright but come on when they want to.

 

[bairdco]

i bought one of these two years ago. on my first ride, i luckily noticed when the cheap plastic mounting bracket broke and was able to rescue it from the street before it got ran over.

after modifying the case (basically removing the unit entirely from the cheap plastic case and mounting it into an old glass taillight) i installed it into my "ammo can" saddlebag.

if kept isolated from smaller bumps by cushioning it, it'll allow the accelerometer to function semi-properly.

BUT, it's still a piece of junk.

mine quit working after a few weeks, and i ended up smashing it with a hammer.

oh, and when i wanted to replace the cheap chinese batteries with some duracells, they didn't fit. the duracells (and energizers) were slightly smaller and i had to shim a small piece of copper in one end to keep the connection.

i too, sent an email with my problems, and they actually responded and sounded concerned. but seeing how you got one 2 years later with no improvements, it's still a total waste of money.

there are tutorials on the web for wireless brakelights, but they're not too user-friendly for the electrically challenged.

 

[Ernst]

i bought one of these two years ago. on my first ride, i luckily noticed when the cheap plastic mounting bracket broke and was able to rescue it from the street before it got ran over.

after modifying the case (basically removing the unit entirely from the cheap plastic case and mounting it into an old glass taillight) i installed it into my "ammo can" saddlebag.

if kept isolated from smaller bumps by cushioning it, it'll allow the accelerometer to function semi-properly.

BUT, it's still a piece of junk.

mine quit working after a few weeks, and i ended up smashing it with a hammer.

oh, and when i wanted to replace the cheap chinese batteries with some duracells, they didn't fit. the duracells (and energizers) were slightly smaller and i had to shim a small piece of copper in one end to keep the connection.

i too, sent an email with my problems, and they actually responded and sounded concerned. but seeing how you got one 2 years later with no improvements, it's still a total waste of money.

there are tutorials on the web for wireless brakelights, but they're not too user-friendly for the electrically challenged.

Good news for you!!! The regular batteries fit just fine now!



I enjoyed the part about smashing it with a hammer...

Something has to be possible. I do have a brake light unit that works. It was one of those horn and turn signal units for like $9 and it broke all up inside but the brake light and turn signals still function.
I wanted a brighter version and by my own limited reading of the fine print I assumed wireless like the Bicyignals meant I would push a button up front and the back would do as told.
The BICYCLE LIGHTS :: LED Torch :: Cycle Helmets :: Bike Safety :: High Visibility :: Online Shop :: 15% Discount :: Bicygnals


okay, what to do with a non-returnable fancy motion detector?

I wonder if I can hard wire the led's? They are exposed enough to solder I believe.

I do like the bright LED.. I saw that in the video and saw "wireless" and silly me I assumed brake light meant it related to using the brakes not simply moving like wiggling on the bed here and the light goes off laying on the mattress.
I would think I need one of those beds that don't spill wine as someone jumps up and down so this unit will work right.. If that new bed ever comes to a stop sign that is.

I'd say this Maxxon needs surgery.. If I only know where to solder or de-solder things.

I have to admit that is a nice looking circuit board and I would trust it to take the stress of MaB bumps and vibrations by the looks of the electronics but what good is such a thing as a brake light?

 

[Ernst]

Perhaps this switch will do me some good? http://www.motoredbikes.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=28831&d=1287449950

If I can modify the Maxxon and the other unit I have I could have an attractive brake light setup?

 

[nvmextc]

Haven't tried the maxxon light. I've ordered this, waiting for it to arrive still to test it out, looks like the cable activates the switch without having to mod anything

Bike Rear Tail Safety Light Bicycle Red LED Sports (eBay item 170528636999 end time 14-Jul-11 02:35:58 AEST) : Sport

 

[Ernst]

Haven't tried the maxxon light. I've ordered this, waiting for it to arrive still to test it out, looks like the cable activates the switch without having to mod anything

Bike Rear Tail Safety Light Bicycle Red LED Sports (eBay item 170528636999 end time 14-Jul-11 02:35:58 AEST) : Sport

I would say yes. I have the Acclaim unit with the horn and beeping turn signal alert but the sound part of the electronics fell apart under vibration so i was left wit the brake light and turn signal still working.
Now that small accordion looking device on the wire is a switch and I ran the brake cable through it and then tightened a set screw so that once the cable is pulled the brake light comes on.
That unit should have a running light ( center ) and two other lights right of center and left of center if it is like my unit and why not? saves costs.


That should be fine for average riding as is the one I have.


Now on the Maxxon unit I can skip powering the unit and solder wires directly to the far side of the circuit board and power all LEDs with 3V and get that really bright brake light effect.

I am going to do this hack as soon as the limit switches arrive that I ordered.


You see nvmextc I'm "jonesin" the light thing so I want these things to work well and perform on par with auto's and motorcycles. I like to ride in traffic when I need to and at night the extra light of a bright brake light is the ideal.
Maybe the Bicygnals will be fine for running?

I don't know just yet what the final configuration will be.

I look forward to a shot of your light on your ride!

 

[Ernst]

I have a general electrical question.

What would the difference be between the AAA and AA on current issues for the LEDs?

For one these LEDs do seem to take the full 3V and must also run in low at 1.5V but should I use a resistor if i change from AAA to AA size? I would think the current issue wouldn't be all that but I can ask!

 

[nvmextc]

Don't believe there to be a diff with AA or AAA, they are the same voltage, AA's just hold more current so if u switch from AAA to AA the only difference will be increased battery life, the LED's shouldn't try and draw more.
Look forward to seeing your end result, I too am trying to build a lighting system to match other vehicles on the road.

 

[Ernst]

Thanks nvmextc.

I went to Radio shack today to see about a quick disconnect approach but everything there is so expensive. Buying wire and set of 1/8th inch phono jacks would have run me $30 I think this is a project that needs to see what is in the junk box in ( dramatic evil music sounds ) "The Shed."

The switch is easy enough but I only saw one seller and that is Hong Kong. So it will take a bit for that to get here.

The evil plan is to combine this Maxxon, which is a nice and bright brake light, with the Bicygnals rear light.
The idea is the Bicygnals will offer a running light as required by law , turn signals and the Maxxon will be an ultra bright brake light which will only come on when I use the dual brake handle.

I'll be stretching this thread out because I will be waiting for the switches to arrive but I also have a motor to mount so I can use the time wisely.

So I need to scavenge a battery holder. Radio shack had an 8 AA holder for $3 but that is too much voltage. Too bad because that was a nice unit and could have mounted cleanly.

Lets see what I can dig up to cannibalize.

 

[Ernst]

I worked the Maxxon light unit today. I have it wired with what I found in the "junk" box.

I shot several photos and I can share what I did.

It's a late finish on a long day so I will story board tomorrow.

I'm pleased with the looks of this tail end.

Mounting is still a concern.

 

[silverbear]

I think these units (at least the different one's I've tried) are junk and a waste of money. Baridco's hammer fix is the right tool used in the right way. Ha! The plastic housings are crap and the electronics don't seem to hold up to the vibrations and bumping around of a motorbike. Now I just make my own stuff for the most part using the business end of cheap little two dollar flashlights as found at HF and lots of places. They're surprisingly bright. They have three AAA batteries inside, but will also run on six volts so are suitable for use with the white wire on a Happy Time motor. Sometime I'll do a thread on modifying them. So I use these with my copper jewel lights, tin can tail lights and yesterday used one as the bulb in a honker headlight. They have nine LED bulbs. For a brake light I wire in to a brake lever with a built in switch. So when you activate the brake lever the light goes on. These brake levers are reasonable and are sold for electric scooters. Look on ebay.
I know very little about electronics and am not much interested in learning either... just want some lights so that I'm seen and can also see where I'm going... nothing high tech or expensive, but I don't mind fiddling around some to make the light units up. That part is kind of fun. What I'm working on right now with a Panther powered with a four stroke is a six volt system which is powered by a little battery box and an older six volt sidewall generator which was on a scavenged bike. When rolling, the sidewall generator will power the lights and when stopped at a stop sign or something like that a button switch on the handlebar will power on the batteries. Not very sophisticated. The only question which will be answered after a test run, is whether or not the sidewall generator will produce too much voltage at speed and burn out the LEDs. I have had that experience with incandescent bulbs. LEDs seem to have a wider range of tolerance for voltage than the incandescent bulbs, so I'm hopeful. If it burns them up then I guess I'll have to look in to a voltage regulator of some sort. If you make your own lights, you can use quality materials, cushioning for the bulbs and have it just the way you want it. And by using these little flashlight units (I use just the led end and cut off the rest so they are just a few inches long) they are cheap enough to replace at a couple bucks per unit. But what I like the best is they are simple and bright and I can buy them locally, not having to pay more in shipping than the value of the lights themselves.
SB

 

[Ernst]

Thanks SilverBear

It looks like MaBers are crafty folk.



I have modified the Maxxon. To take apart the Maxxon start with the battery cover. Have a jewellers screwdriver and loosen the screw you can reach. Then gently work the lens which is glued to the other half of the case loose.



Once you get it loose enough to get access to the second screw take out both of the screws and store them in a safe place.
Now you should be able to remove the lens but do so carefully because who knows how much glue they used and the lens is a very important part of this light IMO.

 

[Ernst]

Once the circuit board is out we don't need to worry about the electronics since we are scrapping that functionality. All I am after here is access to the ultra bright LED brake light.

So Here is the cable I had in the junk pile.



Since this is a Stereo cord I cut, strip and twist the left and right ( red and white ) wires together, solder and use heat shrink.

 

[Ernst]

Now I see on the circuit board that the LEDs have a positive (+) and negative (-) label on the circuit board so I followed that and soldered the positive to that lead on one LED. The negative was soldered to another point.




I avoided heating the same LED with the soldering iron. I am not sure what heat stress these LEDs can take so better safe than sorry.

My soldering is a bit crude but I think it will hold.

 

[Ernst]

Now with the battery space free I found the long cable would snake around inside and coincidently it fit exact.
I drilled holes and used zip-ties to hold the wire firm.



I drilled holes and cut a slot in the side of the bottom case half with a dremel tool.
I used two bits to work on this Maxxon a roto-file and a bit that cuts and drills I can't remember the name of.

 

[Ernst]

After testing that it worked I applied silicone in the battery area for weight and possibly vibration absorption.



I also noted where the open space in the battery area was because I needed to drill through the whole case for a screw mounting. No need to cut the wire when drilling through after all this.
I decided the simplest way to mount this unit on the Bicygnals rear unit was to use foam pad, Velcro and a single screw. I had to use a dry wall screw temporally until I find a screw long enough to mount it right but for now that dry wall screw looks silly but functions exact.

Light, flexible to a degree and sturdy is what I went for. It should stand up to the hard roads and long runs.

What is fun about raiding the junk pile is that it forces my mind to think things through. You may have a different layout that is much simpler and that is fine. I went with what I had on hand and this is how it went for me.

It took some thinking to see a simple way with what I had but in the end it worked okay.

Now if anyone is going to modify a Maxxon you will have choice to do as you see fit but whatever you do take your time and think things through.

Basically disassemble the Maxxon being careful to free the lens from the glue, solder wires to two points on the unit to power the LEDs.
Power to one LED lights up all of them.
Then secure the wiring and make a hole for the wire and that is it really.
The battery / power source is external and that battery holder along with the switches are on order so it will be a few days before I can finish.

 

[Ernst]

Once the case is closed and the silicone is squeezed in I put a screw in the top case and into the lens plastic since it isn't glued now. I trust that will hold it on so I don't lose it in a bump. The unit wouldn't be as nice without the lens.

Be sure to use a screw short enough to avoid hitting the circuit board.



I then test it again to see that all is well.

 

[Ernst]

The result of my efforts go on the rear mount of the Bicygnals after I cut the reflector off. A Black and Decker electric saw made easy work of cutting the reflector off.

Here is the tail light assembly.



It should offer clear running lights at night, left and right turn for bobbing in and out of traffic as we all have to do to turn left on multi lane roads and have an obviously brighter than the running lights stop light that will be activated by the brake handle not by "G-forces."
The brake light is visible in the day so that was one of the selling points of the Maxxon "brake light."
This may be a bicycle but we all have to come to terms with operating it safely and efficiently with a motor.

I'm not happy that to activate the bicygnals turn signals I have to move my arm and hand out of control positions to push a left or right button but, I am not willing to open up a bicygnal yet, to wire a switch.
Anything that helps me to not have me focus on tasks other than turning or stopping is a safety advance. When I have to fiddle with lights and controls it takes my attention off traffic or other control needs.. It's a bicycle after all and we need more safety not less. We need more of a systems approach not a hodgepodge of gadgets all requiring us to actually focus on using them.

With the Maxxon wired this saves having the worry about a proper brake light functioning when needed.
I now will focus on a mount for the whole rear assembly.

So in closing I'd say Maxxion should have a remote switch plug and if they do add that all will be fine with this product. If We can plug in and override the whenever brake light then those in Asia who like their brake light to flash when they hit a bump can do their things and those of us who want to signal we are stopping to the Semi-truck behind us can do so as well.

I do understand how this Maxxon works in say the streets of Taiwan where attracting notice is better than simply braking but in the USA we pay much more attention to a brake light than a blinking bike light.
This unit tries to be both a fancy running light and a brake light and in my opinion it is better to do one or the other well rather than both mediocre.
Maxxion is not foolishly engineered but it lacks American Utility. A remote switch option would see Maxxon units sold and used more often. No one can say the brake light isn't tops!

Please feel free to contact me or reply to this thread. I mean well but I can always improve a thread.


Ernst

 

[dasmo]

double brake cable lever! I didn't even think to look for that! Thanks for that! I'll be putting that on my bike ASAP!!!

 

[Ernst]

Current photo. Work is still in progress.
More pictures to come but here is the current state of the yet unfinished tail end of the bike, I have a "Balance Buddy" odd enough to install today.



I'm still waiting on the switches and battery holder.

I'll have a final report then.

I have one more modification to do to the tail end. It will remind people of a "sissy bar" and once that is on I believe I will have the ability to hang panniers as well as protect the tail light unit.



That, funny enough, I bought from my local "Rite Aid" store and not a bike speciality shop. It is intended to be strong enough for an adult to aid a child ride a bike for the first time. Sort of a hands on training wheel in the form of a rear handle.

As strange as this may sound there are three contributions the Balance Buddy will add and no negatives I can come up with.
1. Protects the tail light in a fall situation.
2. Adds tie downs to a pannier.
3. Allows a single rear lift point a human can grasp easy and or hang the rear end off the ground.
4. Allows Roller Blade people to hang on? Think Bikini.