Love the CNS carb

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bluenosegoat

New Member
Dec 29, 2009
259
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arizona
I have been running a cns carb for a while now and I have been curious as to the adjustment of the air fuel. I see here I was correct that it is the screw closest to the airfilter. I have the billet intake with a sbp pipe and shift kit and this carb was a big improvement over stock out of the box (from spooky). I just seem to 4 stroke on the top end but I actually dont ride in high rpms very often so I havent messed with the adjustment so far. The torque with the shift kit allows me to pull my daughter around in her trailer and I barely know she is there! Except for the occasional out burst whooo hooo! With the billet intake it puts the fuel line right up to the cylinder so I got small "anti kink" hose router from the auto shop and some hose clamps and its a tight fit with the shift kits right plate and the clutch cable but it works out nicely! I've also changed filters on my other bikes with stock carbs to a unit i found at autozone for 7 bucks. Had to cut out the mounting area larger and drilled a couple holes to match the stock location but they work great and come in different colors too. I would think this could be done for the cns carb also. They are intended i believe for pcv breathers? but look just like the cns unit and available locally
 

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5446

New Member
Jun 7, 2010
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on a bike
I have the same setup but havent installed it yet as I was told by sbp that that billet intake would take away some of my bottom end torque. Do you see that with your CNS carb and your billet intake? I was wondering how to get the gas line installed with out kinking the line I hope I can find that setup around here that is if I install the billet intake at all now lol.
 

bluenosegoat

New Member
Dec 29, 2009
259
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arizona
I ran the pipe with and with out the billet intake with both the stock and the cns carb and I would definately say with the billet intake and the cns along with the pipe and the shift kit the bike is awesome! Ocassionally at start up I kick it over a little to hard and give it a little to much throttle and the front tire comes right up off the ground! Torque is not a problem in the least. The tolerances for the fit are tight. The anti kink thing is a common part at automotive stores- commonly larger for use with heater hoses but you shouldnt have any trouble finding one at a parts store. Maybe bottom end loss would be noticeable if i did not have the shift kit but this bike pulls surprisingly strong. I also left the pipe in stock trim - did not shorten the header pipe because i dont spend much time in higher rpms, no reason to with all the torque. I ride in 5th or sixth gear at a comfortable speed between 30-38 mph with ease and that is to fast with traffic! I've topped the bike out only once and hit 42 on level ground, in my opinion thats to fast for a bicycle! Crashing at that speed really hurts alot! ( I am still healing from road rash due to poor curb judgment on my part!). Anyway I think you will be very happy with the results and if not use the parts on another bike!
 

ex-28

New Member
May 23, 2010
110
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winnipeg, Manitoba
my plug is fairly white , to fix this do i have to move the c-clip down a notch or does adjusting the air screw(closest to the air filter) have the same affect as moving the c-clip?
 

bluenosegoat

New Member
Dec 29, 2009
259
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arizona
that is correct - down on the needle with the c clip to richen the mix and up (towards top) to lean it out. I havent tried messing around with the air fuel screw much but I would try the mix screw first- thats the main reason for the using the cns carb right!
 

Alson

New Member
May 16, 2010
71
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Kankakee Illinois
With the CNS carb to make it not lean, just screw the air screw in till its not ,ean, check the plug, wben you think you got it, when Im to rich it sputters a little when giving jt gas, I then turn back some till the sputter goes away, then I check the plug.
 

Alson

New Member
May 16, 2010
71
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0
Kankakee Illinois
I moved the c-clip down one, cause I didnt have top end, and I had to un screw the air screw till it almost came out, I had to use gum to keep it out or it tried to move in by itself, anyway I didnt have to move it down, it was the carb being up to far of a angel.... try the air screw first
 

Alson

New Member
May 16, 2010
71
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0
Kankakee Illinois
Moving the c-clip will make it to rich, I belive. Use the air screw first, I believe youll get it right. To move the c-clip only if the air screw doesent do the trickl then go to the C-clipdance1
 

Alson

New Member
May 16, 2010
71
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0
Kankakee Illinois
PS... dont run your engine to ,ong with a witesh plug, its not good for the engine. You dont want a piston secure. Turn the screw one turn, and see how it runs, and check the plug when the engine cools, if not enofe turn half in and listen how the engine runs, if it sputters a little turn out kust a little till the sputter go away. Then check the plug
 

DudeZXT

New Member
Jun 20, 2010
115
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0
Lexington, KY
How do I keep my CNS carb from vibrating off the engine? I have a great setup and am getting great speed, but the engine hits the high revs and off she goes. I've tried using fuel hose because the rubber o-ring appears to have disintegrated.

If Jim sees this: could you please develop an intake exactly for the CNS?
 

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sportscarpat

Bonneville Bomber the Salt Flat record breaker
Jun 25, 2009
1,844
485
83
california
How do I keep my CNS carb from vibrating off the engine? I have a great setup and am getting great speed, but the engine hits the high revs and off she goes. I've tried using fuel hose because the rubber o-ring appears to have disintegrated.

If Jim sees this: could you please develop an intake exactly for the CNS?
I had the same problem. The plastic bushing was bottoming out so I could not fully tighten the carb to the manifold. Take out the bushing and use a little sand paper to slightly widen the gap in the bushing. Solved the problem for me.