Looking Low Weight Engine Kit

M

Michael1

New Member
I would like to build a motorized bicycle (probably a mountain bike, but maybe a road bike) with a low weight engine, so the bike is light enough to pedal for exercise and offroad trails if I go with a mountain bike (i.e. not move at a crawl), and then motor back home (on the street). I am looking for the engine to give me some extra range.

However, I'm not finding any information on the weight of these kits. The manufacturers seem to omit it (or hide it pretty well). I am also looking for something very reliable, low maintenance, and reasonbly quiet. In other words, I'd rather pay more for good quality, than fix it all the time.

Any suggestions?

Michael
 
"Don Grubee says: The extra engine weight is hardly noticeable""Total wt. is 24 to 27 lbs."
Right off the gasbike website for a 66cc 2 stroke kit.
 
Matricon said:
"Don Grubee says: The extra engine weight is hardly noticeable""Total wt. is 24 to 27 lbs."
Right off the gasbike website for a 66cc 2 stroke kit.
Click to expand...

Yes, because it's more like 16 lbs, not 24-27 lbs.
The engine alone is about 12 lbs. Then add the sprocket/chain, pipe and tank.
 
...And then I have some days where it feels more like an extra 50 pounds. But then I go have some more coffee and I'm good. :)
 
If you want to pedal a lot without engine assist, I would get a friction drive kit like the Bumblebeebolton.com. You can lift the engine roller off your tire without dismounting, eliminating drag.
Thatsdax kits are sturdier but requre you to dismount to lift the drive roller off the tire.
Pedalling a chain driven motorbike without assist will always involve some drag from the clutch unless
you have a jackshaft/shift kit or a hybriped freewheeling rear sprocket.
There are many choices for the pedaler.
 
Michael1 said:
I would like to build a motorized bicycle (probably a mountain bike, but maybe a road bike) with a low weight engine, so the bike is light enough to pedal for exercise and offroad trails if I go with a mountain bike (i.e. not move at a crawl), and then motor back home (on the street). I am looking for the engine to give me some extra range.

However, I'm not finding any information on the weight of these kits. The manufacturers seem to omit it (or hide it pretty well). I am also looking for something very reliable, low maintenance, and reasonbly quiet. In other words, I'd rather pay more for good quality, than fix it all the time.

Any suggestions?

Michael
Click to expand...

Sounds like your looking for a bumblebeebolton...they give you all the info on the engine..i think it wreighs only 10 or 12 pounds..no clutch.just make sure you have your tension ajusted just right on the drive wheel..they can be touchy but when you get the feel of it..its one of he most reliable kits..i used to ride my everyday..if your looking for reliablity go with a friction kit..there much more reliable..theres a couple different kits..google friction drive kit..
 
My two builds so far have been about pedal-ability and light weightness.

The four largest gains I think one can make with the China Girl kits- if you chose that- are:

1. Eliminate the chain tensioner- I use a cruiser frame with pretty wide rear seat stay clearance- unfortunately i think a mountain bike may be a bit harder to get rid of the tensioner- but I've never tried

2. Use a 415 Trike/ Industrial chain- only about HALF the weight of a standard kit chain- and ROLLS BETTER too with smaller plates- helps BOTH the motor and for peddlin.

3. Use a smaller alloy motor sprocket
The smaller the motor sprocket- the less weight it is and the less links the chain is- when you use a 36 or 34 sprock with NO tensioner, you can take out iNCHES of motor chain links. Depending on your riding style and the bike- so light narrow rolling wheels and tires are what I like.

Outside of the motor the heaviest pieces are the tensioner (gone), the motor chained (halved), and the motor sprock and rag joint- (less than halved while still ragged and way less than halved directly bolted to the hub with titanium)

4. Use a smaller tank- the smaller of the two sizes is only a slight dif empty, but the weight of gas really adds up fast- depending on how far you ride and how easily you can get gas. Mc Donalds is tried and true for that!

Another thing- slightly more cost- but don't discount it- TITANIUM BOLTS-

You'd be surprised how many bolts you can replace in a motor- but you may spend another 40 or 50 dollars to do it all- still they are really clean looking allen bolts that reduce the need for a lot of screwdrivers Also titanium on rag joint/ motor sproket bolts- I have a build with a 34 alloy sprock bolted directly to a high flange flip flop hub with small 5 mm TITANIUM bolts- The RAG JOINT is TOTALLY eliminated.
It's a 700c wheel that feels like a featherweight road bike wheel but still 36 spokes and about a 1 1/4 inch profile worth of rubber.

I'm not sure what the weight of my kits are under the stock weight- but it's a considerable chunk- and I've generally yet only replaced the clutch and cover bolts with titanium- two motors I think cost about 20 dollars so far

good luck
 

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A lot will depend on the bike you choose and how it's outfitted. My 66cc china girl added about 25 lbs to the bike. Overall, according to the shipping scale at work my beast weighs in at 84 lbs (with a half-tank of gas and toolkit).

I can pedal it, but I rarely do for any distance. The extra weight isn't bad when pedalling, but is noticable pushing it up the bridge with a rear flat. ;)
 
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