Locked UP ???? Help

So as far as the carb goes. Do I need to move the carb from the engine. I am not seeing a screw underneath that I can unscrew to drain the excess oil.
 
2door said:
Buzzfire,
Are you using the chain tensioner? You should be and that's how you adjust chain tension. The wheel/roller will need to be moved upward to tighten the chain. The kit supplied chains are almost always three or four inches too long for most bikes. You'll need to remove a few links. There are any number of posts on this forum dealing with chain and how to cut them. There are tools made to press out the pins in the rollers or you can grind off the ends of the pins and use a small punch and hammer to drive the pins out. When you install the master link make sure the closed in of the clip is facing forward on the top chain or the portion that is entering the motor. We could offer more help if you could post a photo of your bike and especially a good picture of your chain tensioner installation. Ideally you want about 1/2 to 3/4" play, or slack in the chain when installed. You measure that on the top chain with the bike moved forward until the chain sags. Less than a 1/2" is too tight, more than 3/4" and your chain is loose and can bunch up on the engine sprocket locking your rear wheel. Hope this helps you.
Tom
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That helps me, I messed up my chain pretty good and finally about 10 minutes ago jury rigged it together with two master links. I rode down my driveway and released the clutch and started driving down the street, I got about 3 houses down and the wheel locked up. I had to walk my bike back holding up the rear wheel. Anyway tomorrow I'm going to the tractor supply store people have been talking about and getting that 10 foot chain.

I'm just glad my bike started if only for a few seconds.
 
looks like you may have the sprocket on backwards, take it off the wheel and flip it over. that will move the chain out away from the tire more and line everything up better.
 
camlifter said:
looks like you may have the sprocket on backwards, take it off the wheel and flip it over. that will move the chain out away from the tire more and line everything up better.
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Yeah I already made that mistake, on Saturday I put the sprocket on twice first the wrong way then the right way.

I got my a chain on my bike and it's working good. Went around the block once. Now the problem is the throttle doesn't seem to work, the bike is just going full blast. Oh and I drilled a hole in my handlebars and stuck the throttle in there, and when I just took it out for a ride I twisted it and it broke off.
 
Buzzfire said:
So as far as the carb goes. Do I need to move the carb from the engine. I am not seeing a screw underneath that I can unscrew to drain the excess oil.
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you got the older carb, newer ones have a drain screw down the bottom.. there are 2 screws you gotta undo on the float chamber to take off the bowl. When you put it back together you might need a new gasket if the older one leaks alot..
 
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camlifter said:
looks like you may have the sprocket on backwards, take it off the wheel and flip it over. that will move the chain out away from the tire more and line everything up better.
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That is interesting.I was wondering about that. So the sprocket needs to be curved outward? I thought I did that but I will check it again.


Thanks I will give it another go. .wee.
 
Buzzfire said:
That is interesting.I was wondering about that. So the sprocket needs to be curved outward? I thought I did that but I will check it again.


Thanks I will give it another go. .wee.
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Buzzfire,
The second photo of your rear wheel and sprocket makes me think that the sprocket is flat, not dished. If it is flat then flipping it around will not help you. Are the teeth offset to one side or the other from center? You haven't mentioned anything about the chain hitting the tire so you should be okay either way. Wouldn't want to see you go through the hassle of removing and reinstalling the sprocket unless it will benefit you.
Tom
 
So far I have not had any problems with the chain hitting the tire Yet. Today I am contemplating whether I should attempt to open the carb to drain the oil if there is any. I tried to look through the hole where the spark plug is but I could not see anything. The spark plug looks the same. It appears to be empty.

The sprocket is not flat it is curved a little
 
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Update, I took it to a guy that works on them. He sprayed some engine starter, checked the carb, checked the spark plug and the spark, after careful inspection he is guessing that I used bad gas. Which the gas was old.

I brought it home and after a few adjustments I got it started I drove it up and down the block. I let it sit for 30 minutes and now it will not start again. So my next attempt is to put new gas in it. What do you think?
 
Buzz,
Your man was probably right. Mixed fuel has a short shelf life. A few weeks and it's not really what you want to put in your tank. Mix small batches, a gallon or so at a time so it doesn't sit around. I never mix more than a gallon at a time. Glad at least you got to ride it. You'll get all the bugs worked out soon.
Tom
 
Tom thanks for the encouragement. It gets frustrating. I changed the fuel and oil. Mixed brand new oil and fuel. Could I have flooded it? How would I know?
 
It appears that my chain keeps coming loose. I have to re-tighten the sprocket every few rides. How do I keep this from happening? When the chain gets loose it comes off.
 
Buzzfire said:
Tom thanks for the encouragement. It gets frustrating. I changed the fuel and oil. Mixed brand new oil and fuel. Could I have flooded it? How would I know?
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Buzz,
Pull the spark plug and see if it is wet/oily. Dry it off and shut off the fuel petcock at the tank. If you have any kind of carb cleaner or quick start fluid spray just a little into the hole where the plug goes. Put the plug back in and try to start the motor. It might fire and run. If so it was badly flooded. There are many things to check if the engine isn't starting but you said the mechanic got it started so I'll rule out bad ignition or wiring problems. Did you properly gap the spark plug? Start at about .24 to .28 gap. Your gas/oil mix should be between 16 and 24 to 1. That's about six to eight ounces of oil to a gallon of gasoline. If your weather is warm it might not require much choke, start at about 1/2 (choke lever 1/2 way up) or just a little less. Start pedaling and when you're about 10mph release the clutch and slightly twist the throttle. Keep pedalling but don't give it much gas. (don't twist the throttle all the way) If all is right the engine should fire. Most of the 2 strokes take a few moments to warm enough to run with the choke open. Give it 30 seconds at least before moving the choke lever all the way down.
Now let's look at this chain/sprocket problem. Have you done the things that have already been suggested? Check for good alignment from the engine back to the rear wheel sprocket. You don't want much over 3/8" side to side misalignment of the chain. It should be as straight as possible. The tensioner wheel (pulley) must be aligned with the chain. It cannot be twisted so that it is pulling the chain off to one side or the other. The chain tension must be between 1/2" and 1" at the loosest point. The kit supplied chains are notorious for wearing quickly but you haven't riden this bike enough so your chain loosening problem is not wear. Is the engine solidly mounted to the frame. It should not move even when you try to muscle it. Same for the rear wheel and the rear sprocket. Have you closely checked that the rear sprocket is concentric, that is,is it centered on the hub, does it spin true or is there any up/down or side to side wobble? That sprocket installation is very critical to a smooth running chain and one that stays on. You said you have "tightened the sprocket", I assume you mean the one on the rear wheel. How tight are you tightening it? It almost sounds to me as if the sprocket is moving and allowing the chain to loosen then tighten because the sprocket is not staying centered on the wheel hub. Lift the rear wheel off the floor and with the clutch disengaged pedal the bike or spin the rear wheel and watch that sprocket. Anything other than true is going to cause problems. Let's start with all this and come back, let us know how you're doing. We'll get this beast runnin' yet, Buzzfire.
Tom
 
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you may want to change the spark plug with a new motorcycle one (I don't knoe the numbers) My engine wouldn't start either. I got frustrated, put the motor in a bucket, and left it for years. When I finally pulled it out, I tinkered with it to no avail, but as soon as I changed that plug, bang.... only a few bucks, give it a shot.
 
As of today I got it running. I took around the block a few times. As suggested I replaced the plug, and discovered one of my wires came lose. After that it fired right up. I checked all the bolts and nuts. It sounds a little choppy. It has lots of power but sounds loud and choppy..wee.
auflg
 
Buzzfire said:
As of today I got it running. I took around the block a few times. As suggested I replaced the plug, and discovered one of my wires came lose. After that it fired right up. I checked all the bolts and nuts. It sounds a little choppy. It has lots of power but sounds loud and choppy..wee.
auflg
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Congratulations Buzzfire,
It might run a little rough at first. The 2 strokes are not known for low speed smoothness. When you've run a couple or three tanks of fuel through it it might start feel and sound better. The longer they run the better they get. Have fun, ride safe.
Tom
 
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