K10 Fork, Handlebar Woes

Y

Yggdrasil

New Member
So my k10 forks just came in today and I jerry rigged a wheel to fit, only to find that all my handlebars are way too thick, reread the thread about them today and it seems nobody mentioned how to get your handlebars on them. I suppose i could go and get some longer bolts to make things fit, would like to get your guys ideas on what else works.

I know a few folks have built with these things, perhaps you would be so kind as to share with me some of the tricks you employed to make things work.

I may be mixing things up a bit, but I swear i remember seeing someone with a set of clipons from treatland.tv on these forks, what size did you get to do so? Would moped bars work in general with these forks?

Sorry for the million questions, just one of :-|| those days.
 
Ream the bar clamps like this:



I used the machine reamer by hand and it worked great. You could also use a rotory high-speed tool such as a Dremel. Start grinding.....or reaming.

dnut

Yggdrasil said:
So my k10 forks just came in today and I jerry rigged a wheel to fit, only to find that all my handlebars are way too thick, reread the thread about them today and it seems nobody mentioned how to get your handlebars on them. I suppose i could go and get some longer bolts to make things fit, would like to get your guys ideas on what else works.

I know a few folks have built with these things, perhaps you would be so kind as to share with me some of the tricks you employed to make things work.

I may be mixing things up a bit, but I swear i remember seeing someone with a set of clipons from treatland.tv on these forks, what size did you get to do so? Would moped bars work in general with these forks?

Sorry for the million questions, just one of :-|| those days.
Click to expand...
 
k so i managed to get my handlebars, took her for a spin, love the suspension, i do not however love my improvised wheel, looking like i'm gonna need a proper axle to fit these forks, glad my wheel poped off under pedal power as opposed to 30 plus mph. so i'm garaged until i find a suitable wheel for the front... dangitt!

I don't suppose anyone could link the proper axle to go with these things? I recall reading you machined one scotto, is that what must be done? Is there not a really long 3/8ths axle to be had compatable with these things?

Also if i spring for a S/A Drum wheel would the axle clear the dropouts or am i going to have to rip apart a brand new wheel to elongate the axle? Would like to know as that idea scares the bejesus out of me.

Really appreciate all your guys help with this, love these forks can't wait to get em on the road!
 
PS i ended up just filing the crap out of it and got some nice 1 1/2" 6mm bolts to replace the stock ones, works great, was on a non motorized bicycle today so my options were limited, glad with how it worked.

OOOh i also got some pics today, hope y'all like:

DSC01836.jpg


Yeah i know the bars are a little off center, has since been fixed.

DSC01834.jpg


DSC01830.jpg
 
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Yggdrasil said:
I don't suppose anyone could link the proper axle to go with these things? I recall reading you machined one scotto, is that what must be done? Is there not a really long 3/8ths axle to be had compatable with these things?

Also if i spring for a S/A Drum wheel would the axle clear the dropouts or am i going to have to rip apart a brand new wheel to elongate the axle? Would like to know as that idea scares the bejesus out of me.
Click to expand...

Here are some excerps of how I did it......More fabrication and modification today......had to replace the stepped 9mm Sturmey Archer short front axle with a much longer 10mm axle to fit the Suzuki front fork.

I used a vice with padded jaws opened up to just wider than the bearing, rested the hub on the non-brake side, took a lead ingot and a special hammer and beat it into submission. They popped out quicker than snot.

To ease the wrestling of getting the 10mm axle to fit (wheel intact), I cut a drop-out in the right hand axle loop. Then install onto the left leg while compressing the right......get axle into position and gently let the right leg slide over the axle and BAM, install nuts and tighten to specs (crank'em down).

When I installed the 10mm axle I made a spacer that slides over the axle that sits between the bearings to keep them from too much side-load as the original axle does.....this is a pretty important thing to do. If you have questions about this, PM me. Hope this helps....gotta run.
 
Thanks for the information scott, a lot of stuff going on in my personal life right now, so the project has to take a hiatus, but i will report back when i have some more time to try your suggestions. Again many thanks for the words of wisdom.
 
I dont mean to hijack anyone's thread, but I have a question about these forks. The description on ebay says 16" from bottom tree to axle. A 26" wheel would measure 13" from tire to axle. So that leaves me with 3". The description on ebay says the forks have 4 to 5" of travel. So will I need to worry about the bottom tree hitting the tire? Also fwiw, I will be using a 26" Worksman wheel with front drum.
 
bigbutterbean said:
I dont mean to hijack anyone's thread, but I have a question about these forks. The description on ebay says 16" from bottom tree to axle. A 26" wheel would measure 13" from tire to axle. So that leaves me with 3". The description on ebay says the forks have 4 to 5" of travel. So will I need to worry about the bottom tree hitting the tire? Also fwiw, I will be using a 26" Worksman wheel with front drum.
Click to expand...

No they won't hit.You can always stiffin up the travel if it is to mushy for ya.
 
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