Yer right... but so long as the rear wheel's RPM exceeds that of the drive chain it's essentially one and the same, in fact with a "dead stop" of the chain, the hub may not shift at all - the important thing is to not shift under load.
So is this kind of like when we used to have non syncromesh manual transmissions on cars and trucks? I can also remember shifting gears without benefit of a clutch when it no longer worked and you had to kind of feel the gears and slip it in when the rpms were right. Anything like that? I'm thinking real hard about a shift kit. I think it is something I'm just going to have to do. Between having hills to deal with and eventually a sidecar, I think gears are going to be a must. Prepare to have your brains picked, Barely, and I'm going to be asking your advice on the suitability of one frame over another of what is available to me. It will be vintage, but don't know which one yet... maybe a 34 Elgin like the one in my avatar that burned and maybe the 50 Panther. Either one would be awesome with an sbp shift kit and a PK-80 powering it. Gotta be sure it will fit. Boy, that's something to dream on.Yer right... but so long as the rear wheel's RPM exceeds that of the drive chain it's essentially one and the same, in fact with a "dead stop" of the chain, the hub may not shift at all - the important thing is to not shift under load.
I'm going to have to go back to your build thread to look at that more closely. I can't remember what frame you used for that build and at the time wasn't quite so enthused about a jack shaft shifting setup, not really understanding what it could mean for a better ride. Now I have just enough understanding to want to experience it for myself. Do you have the link for that thread?i'm using the old 70's shimano 3sp as a jack shaft in the silver bike, so it sees a lot more rpm than it would if it was in the wheel, so far it's held up great, i shift it under power all the time, dosen't seam to hurt it, only thing i watch out for is down shifting to soon, if you shift to first while going 15 mph the motor will over rev when you kick in the clutch, even shifting down to 2nd can rev it up if your going to fast.
WOW - talk about thinking outside the box!here it is. http://motorbicycling.com/f37/3-speed-jack-shaft-11499.html i can't say it's any better than having the hub in the wheel but since you have to build a jack shaft to make a shifter bike any way i thought i do it this way.
I like that setup, enough that I tried to talk a friend into doing that on his OCC, but after some discussion decided Russell's http://motorbicycling.com/f3/integrated-motor-mount-jack-shaft-12284.html suited his style, he's gonna pound on it and wouldn't invest in a quality hub. He's got a ton of scrap 21sp bikes for parts so it makes sense.here it is. http://motorbicycling.com/f37/3-speed-jack-shaft-11499.html i can't say it's any better than having the hub in the wheel but since you have to build a jack shaft to make a shifter bike any way i thought i do it this way.
Did you use a hub adapter to fit the rear sprocket on the nexus 3?I've been looking into adding a shift kit to my Worksman bike. Husky has two 3 speed wheels. One is a Sturmey Archer SRC3 3-Speed with Coaster Brake and the other is a Shimano Nexus 3-speed with coaster brake, 22T.
Will they hold up to a shift kit?
Does anybody have any knowledge of which one is better? Are they basically the same? The cost difference is about $14.
BICYCLE WHEEL 26X1.75 ALLOY 3-SPD W/COASTER BRAKE: Husky Bicycles
BICYCLE WHEEL 26X1.75 ALLOY NEXUS 3-SPEED 12-G SPOKES: Husky Bicycles