Internal 3 speed wheels (Hubs)

Yer right... but so long as the rear wheel's RPM exceeds that of the drive chain it's essentially one and the same, in fact with a "dead stop" of the chain, the hub may not shift at all - the important thing is to not shift under load.
 
BarelyAWake said:
Yer right... but so long as the rear wheel's RPM exceeds that of the drive chain it's essentially one and the same, in fact with a "dead stop" of the chain, the hub may not shift at all - the important thing is to not shift under load.
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So is this kind of like when we used to have non syncromesh manual transmissions on cars and trucks? I can also remember shifting gears without benefit of a clutch when it no longer worked and you had to kind of feel the gears and slip it in when the rpms were right. Anything like that? I'm thinking real hard about a shift kit. I think it is something I'm just going to have to do. Between having hills to deal with and eventually a sidecar, I think gears are going to be a must. Prepare to have your brains picked, Barely, and I'm going to be asking your advice on the suitability of one frame over another of what is available to me. It will be vintage, but don't know which one yet... maybe a 34 Elgin like the one in my avatar that burned and maybe the 50 Panther. Either one would be awesome with an sbp shift kit and a PK-80 powering it. Gotta be sure it will fit. Boy, that's something to dream on.
SB
 
To be honest silver - I'm new to internally geared hubs and after lookin' at some cutaway views - they confuse and terrify me a bit, including a 4th dimension there's far more inside that would possibly fit back in should ya dare take it apart lol (actually, I'm waiting to get my hands on a junk one to experiment with).

sa-cutaway.gif

Sturmey-Archer Bicycle Hubs... and that's just a 3 speed O.O


Yet they've worked for years and mine is doing well with the shiftkit - I'll be more than happy to help with what I can, I will say it'll be a challenge indeed to find a step-through frame that's perfect for a shiftkit... perhaps not - but you'd know the clearances better than I ;)
 
i'm using the old 70's shimano 3sp as a jack shaft in the silver bike, so it sees a lot more rpm than it would if it was in the wheel, so far it's held up great, i shift it under power all the time, dosen't seam to hurt it, only thing i watch out for is down shifting to soon, if you shift to first while going 15 mph the motor will over rev when you kick in the clutch, even shifting down to 2nd can rev it up if your going to fast.
 
camlifter said:
i'm using the old 70's shimano 3sp as a jack shaft in the silver bike, so it sees a lot more rpm than it would if it was in the wheel, so far it's held up great, i shift it under power all the time, dosen't seam to hurt it, only thing i watch out for is down shifting to soon, if you shift to first while going 15 mph the motor will over rev when you kick in the clutch, even shifting down to 2nd can rev it up if your going to fast.
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I'm going to have to go back to your build thread to look at that more closely. I can't remember what frame you used for that build and at the time wasn't quite so enthused about a jack shaft shifting setup, not really understanding what it could mean for a better ride. Now I have just enough understanding to want to experience it for myself. Do you have the link for that thread?
SB
 
Barely,
I'll have to stare at your build some more when I have time. I hadn't realized that a step through would be a problem. I kind of like that 34 Elgin the best, but there is a lot going on there anyway with the skirts and big chainguard. Maybe the Panther would be a better candidate. I started using step throughs when I was more crippled up after the lightning strike and consequent Guillane Barre Syndrome nerve damage. Since then I've better mastered using my upper legs to compensate for the spotty nerve connections at the feet so that most people don't even know I'm kind of cripped. So, I'm a little more coordinated now at getting a leg over the rear of a mens bike. In short, I could make the Panther work for me although the step through bikes are easier to mount. Something will work and when the time comes your counsel will be much appreciated.
SB
 
I'm by no means sure that a step-through wouldn't work, just that it would need extra consideration... the engine may be mounted higher than a men's bike, but that may be an advantage actually (clearing the jackshaft/crank chain & the engine case).

Hmm... I've not really taken pics with the shiftkit itself in mind... well, here's a couple that sorta help (notice vertical clearance) - if ya want more w/measurements I'll be happy to take them, these are kinda outdated anyway heh



...and here's a link to just the album if ya want: Rollfast pictures - Photobucket
 
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Camlifter,
That's a slick setup you devised with very admirable skills I lack. It's good to hear that everything is holding up and that you're happy with it. That must be a very great satisfaction to ride along on a bike whose drive train you thought up. Very cool!
SB
 
camlifter said:
here it is. http://motorbicycling.com/f37/3-speed-jack-shaft-11499.html i can't say it's any better than having the hub in the wheel but since you have to build a jack shaft to make a shifter bike any way i thought i do it this way.
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I like that setup, enough that I tried to talk a friend into doing that on his OCC, but after some discussion decided Russell's http://motorbicycling.com/f3/integrated-motor-mount-jack-shaft-12284.html suited his style, he's gonna pound on it and wouldn't invest in a quality hub. He's got a ton of scrap 21sp bikes for parts so it makes sense.

Still, if I were to do a shifter chopper I'd prolly try your route, particularly with a four stroke. I like how the hub is standalone, prob makes for less adjustment needed and simplifies maintenance and repair as it's not part of the rear wheel *shrug* You'd know better than I tho lol
 
i think using the hub as a jack shaft would only be practical on a 4 stroke, then you have the gear box out put shaft to extend over and then jack shaft back to the left side with the hub, on a 2 stroke it would take a jack shaft plus the hub as a jack shaft, double the fab work, for a 2 stroke it's probably best to put the hub in the rear wheel.
 
RedB66 said:
I've been looking into adding a shift kit to my Worksman bike. Husky has two 3 speed wheels. One is a Sturmey Archer SRC3 3-Speed with Coaster Brake and the other is a Shimano Nexus 3-speed with coaster brake, 22T.

Will they hold up to a shift kit?
Does anybody have any knowledge of which one is better? Are they basically the same? The cost difference is about $14.

BICYCLE WHEEL 26X1.75 ALLOY 3-SPD W/COASTER BRAKE: Husky Bicycles



BICYCLE WHEEL 26X1.75 ALLOY NEXUS 3-SPEED 12-G SPOKES: Husky Bicycles
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Did you use a hub adapter to fit the rear sprocket on the nexus 3?

Minus jacks shafting conversations, I have the nexus 3 700 x20 rims.
 
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