In frame Predator fricton drive build
- Thread starter wayne z
- Start date
Sweet build, i would love to do something like this with my 5hp honda. Not going to happen anytime soon but i can dream...
Also thanks for checking out my trike.
cheers
Also thanks for checking out my trike.
cheers
Very impressive set up Wayne! I want to build a set up similar to this but have a few questions regarding the jack-shaft, pillow bearing, and roller assembly.
First, where is a good source for the roller and proper jack-shaft? I saw ebay mentioned about the pillow bearings but wanted to be sure on the rest. Also, How is the shaft secured to the bearings? Is it a press fit or a retainer of some sort? Likewise how is the roller secured to the shaft?
I love your "T" hinge design, simple and effective pressure adjustment. I like the way you knurled the roller as well, any details on how you did this would be great. If there are any other improvements or suggestions you might have please share as I have come to the conclusion that this is the best drive I have seen so far in regards to simplicity and reliability.
I look forward to tinkering with this design in a 29" bike. I'm not sure which yet but I've got my heart set on that 4-stroke as the powerplant. I wonder if it would fit into that genesis 29" mountainbike hehe. I might have to settle on the onyx cruiser or similar.
Any feedback for this newbie in the ART of DIY motorized bicycles is greatly appreciated.
Terry
First, where is a good source for the roller and proper jack-shaft? I saw ebay mentioned about the pillow bearings but wanted to be sure on the rest. Also, How is the shaft secured to the bearings? Is it a press fit or a retainer of some sort? Likewise how is the roller secured to the shaft?
I love your "T" hinge design, simple and effective pressure adjustment. I like the way you knurled the roller as well, any details on how you did this would be great. If there are any other improvements or suggestions you might have please share as I have come to the conclusion that this is the best drive I have seen so far in regards to simplicity and reliability.
I look forward to tinkering with this design in a 29" bike. I'm not sure which yet but I've got my heart set on that 4-stroke as the powerplant. I wonder if it would fit into that genesis 29" mountainbike hehe. I might have to settle on the onyx cruiser or similar.
Any feedback for this newbie in the ART of DIY motorized bicycles is greatly appreciated.
Terry
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Hi Terry, The jaqckshaft is just a piece of 1018 cold rolled steel I got from a machinist friend. I used the stamped steel 3/4" pillow bearings to save weight over the cast iron ones. They have setscrews to lock them to the shaft.
You can buy keyed shafting from the go-cart vendors . My shaft wasn't keyed, so I drill a 5/16" hole about 1/4" deep to accept allen head bolts in place of the 5/16 setscrews, to lock the pullies in place.
I made my roller by turning down a 3.5" steel pully to fit tightly inside a short piece of thickwall 3.5" pipe. I had to use 1" square tubing spacers with the pillow blocks to make the large dia roller clear the mount when installed. There are some high clearance pedistal type pillow blocks on e-bay that would eliminate the spacers.
Spotwelded the pully to the pipe sleeve inside, and chucked it in the lathe on the jackshaft for a manderel. Turned it true and knurled it. 500 miles on this build now,no noticable wear or problems yet.
This has turned out to be a very reliable,efficent and simple drive train,lil more complicated now with 2 speeds though.
You can buy keyed shafting from the go-cart vendors . My shaft wasn't keyed, so I drill a 5/16" hole about 1/4" deep to accept allen head bolts in place of the 5/16 setscrews, to lock the pullies in place.
I made my roller by turning down a 3.5" steel pully to fit tightly inside a short piece of thickwall 3.5" pipe. I had to use 1" square tubing spacers with the pillow blocks to make the large dia roller clear the mount when installed. There are some high clearance pedistal type pillow blocks on e-bay that would eliminate the spacers.
Spotwelded the pully to the pipe sleeve inside, and chucked it in the lathe on the jackshaft for a manderel. Turned it true and knurled it. 500 miles on this build now,no noticable wear or problems yet.
This has turned out to be a very reliable,efficent and simple drive train,lil more complicated now with 2 speeds though.
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Turned over 600 miles on the odo today. Still runs perfect. no problems at all 'cept I had to change the rear wheel to a heavy duty one, the 14g spokes don't like a lotta miles and speed combined.
Bought a new 99cc engine yesterday for $111+ with the 20% coupon.
Gonna build another one. Got a new idea for simplifying my 2 speed tranny. Want to try a cent clutch to engage 1st gear and a sprag bearing pully and idler to override 1st gear and engage 2nd gear belt.
Hold the handlebar lever in for low and release for high.
Bought a new 99cc engine yesterday for $111+ with the 20% coupon.
Gonna build another one. Got a new idea for simplifying my 2 speed tranny. Want to try a cent clutch to engage 1st gear and a sprag bearing pully and idler to override 1st gear and engage 2nd gear belt.
Hold the handlebar lever in for low and release for high.
Hello Wayne,I was wondering about You and the progress on the "two speed"...My bike has been off and on for the last two months,but I finished it good enough to go on a test spin yesterday....My rear tire has grown a knot on the side wall...factory defect is My guess...I should of looked it over better at the store but I had that new bike glare and overlooked its faults!...What kind on new wheels are You looking to use on the Huffy?...I'm lookin to replace Mine over the winter...I'll love to see alot of pictures of the next bike that You motorize...The 99cc predator is what I used in My Schwinn,great for the price...I had a little trouble with the clutch fitting the shaft...5/8 ths clutch is .625 the shaft is .630/16mm. I have the Maxtorq with 11 th.sprocket...Tigmaster....
Hey Tigmaster, The 2 speed tranny worked out excellent. Go back to post # 141 and I posted a link to crude video at Youtube.
I bought a new chromed steel coaster wheel with 12 guage stainless spokes for 50 bux from my LBS, and he cold set the spokes before he gave it to me.
If you haven't seen the progressive pix of this build, they're all there in this thread.
I bought a new chromed steel coaster wheel with 12 guage stainless spokes for 50 bux from my LBS, and he cold set the spokes before he gave it to me.
If you haven't seen the progressive pix of this build, they're all there in this thread.
When I first built this thing I contemplated using a grinding wheel as a fricton roller to maybe work better in wet weather. Never found one the right size and easy to mount on my jackshaft. I proceeded with a large steel roller and it works great, but it does still slip rather easily when wet due to the torquey lil motor.
Never gave up the idea though and have been watching grinding wheels
on Ebay.
Well the perfect ones to experiment with came around. I bought 2 for less than $27 with shipping. Made to thread onto a sidegrinder.
I plan on drilling the threads out. Then using a piece of 3/4 threaded rod turned down to 5/8 on the ends for the bearings to fit, and locking the wheel on the shaft with 3/4 jam nuts and washers.
The stone is 80 grit, way less agressive than tarmac and with the large dia. I'm hoping it won't slip much nor wear the tire excessivly with less pressure needed compared to the steel knurled roller. Won't hafta worry about the knurls wearing off either.
I'll keep y'all posted.
Never gave up the idea though and have been watching grinding wheels
on Ebay.
Well the perfect ones to experiment with came around. I bought 2 for less than $27 with shipping. Made to thread onto a sidegrinder.
I plan on drilling the threads out. Then using a piece of 3/4 threaded rod turned down to 5/8 on the ends for the bearings to fit, and locking the wheel on the shaft with 3/4 jam nuts and washers.
The stone is 80 grit, way less agressive than tarmac and with the large dia. I'm hoping it won't slip much nor wear the tire excessivly with less pressure needed compared to the steel knurled roller. Won't hafta worry about the knurls wearing off either.
I'll keep y'all posted.
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Should drive well in the wet. My temporary use "rain roller" is a 60 grit sanding belt bonded to a wood roller. Drives with no slippage even through standing water. I imagine the 80 grit would also.
That is a great thunk CB. A conditions swap-able roller.
Thanks a lot! just gave me a new puzzle to work out for present build. lol
(Kidding, that really is a cool thought)
Thinking some sort of clamp on/around sort of thing........
Not kidding, you guys keep me awake at night. Some truly brilliant stuff.
I mean this, thanks for sharing.
(do we now have to join hands and sing kumbia?) snork
On a serious note, spent the day on a wet weather "wrap-around" concept. Academic until tried but could work.
I mean this, thanks for sharing.
(do we now have to join hands and sing kumbia?) snork
On a serious note, spent the day on a wet weather "wrap-around" concept. Academic until tried but could work.
Hmmm, seems like I remember a woodworking catalog that had thin metal tube sanding sleeves, abt 2" dia, with carbide particles brass sweated to its surface . Was to be used on an expandable sanding drum in place of regular paper or cloth sleeves. When they got clogged up with wood resin, you could take them off and burn off the resin with a propane torch, then re use them.
If thet are still available they would be a good candidate for your idea.
BTW, Harbor Freight sells a package of assorted size sanding drums with sleeves, for use in a drill press .'bout $20
If thet are still available they would be a good candidate for your idea.
BTW, Harbor Freight sells a package of assorted size sanding drums with sleeves, for use in a drill press .'bout $20
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Thats pretty weird I was just looking at those at Home Depot. The rubber roller concept would work great with them as it expands when tightened. The metal sanding tube would be even better. How are the 80 grit stones coming Wayne?
Ya'll have some neat ideas. I just bought a Dax kit, and changed the roller from 1.25 to 1". It was a pain in the but, maybe bc. it is new. I used an old drum stick to drive the shaft out. Then I discovered if somehow the bearing on the right can be pushed out, the roller can slide out through the hole lol.
I wonder why there aren't 2 piece (halved) rollers, that use small hex-head screws to pinch them together on the shaft. As long as they are balanced, it wouldn't even matter if there was a little gap between them.
I wonder why there aren't 2 piece (halved) rollers, that use small hex-head screws to pinch them together on the shaft. As long as they are balanced, it wouldn't even matter if there was a little gap between them.
Thats the neat thing about compression drive rollers, once loosened they easily just slip off. Gets a little more complicated inside of a "C" channel though.
I just wish there was a roller (even made of hard plastic or composite) that was in 2 pieces which clamped onto the 1" roller. Then I could use the 1" all week but put the 1.5" on easily for a weekend run out of town.