hydraulic disc brake splitter ? two brakes, one lever ?

motorbike57

New Member
Sep 30, 2015
17
0
0
louisiana
I've got front and rear hydraulic brakes on my 2011 trek 4300 disc. I'll be installing a jackshaft and I want to operate both the front and rear brakes with one lever on the right - just like the dual lever that comes with most kits. SO, I ether need a dual caliper lever - which is almost impossible to find - or a "T" or some sort of splitter to run both lines. any ideas? links ? I think my brakes are AVID - can anyone tell me what the thread size and pitch is so that I could possibly fabricate a splitter block ?

cheers
 

jeffyh

New Member
Nov 28, 2015
53
0
0
Madison, NJ
complete guess in the dark since i can't seem to find a picture of the lever cylinder. If it's one of the older larger style ones couldn't you just drill a new hole in the cylinder to attach a new line with some parts from home depot? Could also rebuild you whole line with a T with stuff from there. Maybe play with different hose sizing on either the front or back to distribute braking force ratios.
 
Last edited:

bigwave

New Member
Dec 9, 2016
12
0
0
South Central Illinois
Hi fellows, new here and first post ever. I'm working on my first motor bike build ever. A flying horse upgraded BB motor and a few other goodies. Any-who, I've been working on ATV's, for my own use, adding lights, changing brakes, replacing bearings, complete engine rebuilds ect. for 30 years. Mainly for myself and my kids, we tear up too much to pay someone 80$ an hour fix for us. That being said, I have converted a few smaller ATV's to hydraulic disk brakes. You can do what you are proposing, you do need a splitter box or Y of some type. In my experience a splitter that is more like a small cube works better than trying to "Y" the fluid, the trick is to force the fluid to a certain percentage to front and to rear. This can be done a few ways, one is hose length, if one hose is 2' and the other is 4' (past your distribution box) the shorter will get more pressure, another is to put some type of restriction in place on one hose or the other to make the flow more restricted to one hose vs the other, this can be as simple as an adjustment screw inline on one or both of the tubes, kind of like a valve in a water line. You also need a master cylinder beefy enough to push the fluid to both brakes but, sure that's not much issue with no more rolling weight than a bicycle. Does any of this help at all?
 
Jan 24, 2012
142
19
18
letterkenny, ireland
the simplest answer would be to change up to motorbike master cylinder off something with dual front brakes that has both brake lines going up to the master cylinder and just have custom hoses made
 

KCvale

Well-Known Member
Feb 28, 2010
3,967
52
48
Phoenix,AZ
Good point, I can't imagine mechanical disk brakes not being adequate, hydraulic is super nice, but maybe not needed for a <70-lb bike and rider.
Mechanical disc brakes are so much easier to work when it comes to cabling, you can make it fit where you want...





And you can use them with a SBP dual pull lever.

Stopping power? Pleaseeee, it's frigg'n awesome ;-}
 
Jan 17, 2015
591
20
18
ca.
Somebody makes cable pull hydraulic disc caliper....forgot where I was browsing that I came across the add....amazon??
 

culvercityclassic

Well-Known Member
Sep 27, 2009
3,115
144
63
Culver City, Ca
I run front and rear Avid BB7 mechanical disk into one lever on my KTM powered Dyno bike, Bike stops great with that setup. Best mechanical brake on the market....

I also run the disk mentioned above as a rear only on my boardtracker...works nice too..just $$$
 

TheRealMikeyXZ

New Member
Sep 5, 2017
1
0
1
29
Somebody makes cable pull hydraulic disc caliper....forgot where I was browsing that I came across the add....amazon??
I know this is an old thread, but I always suggest TRP HY/RD. They are probably the cable actuated hydraulic disc brakes you speak of. I don't know of any others on the market right now...