High Performance Wally World Cruiser?

mapbike said:
Yes that's where I have got some of mine also, never had any issues with them.

I've also ordered these form the UK, they are IKO Bearings and are cheaper than getting them here in the states which is just crazy in my opinion.

http://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/p9...e+Roller+Bearing+10x14x15mm/product_info.html

Bearings Direct is $8.50 each plus shipping, in the UK is just E3.35 = $5.06 US shipped from there to the US, I just ordered three more a few minutes ago for $25.29 total cost and shipping is E6.23 = $9.42

Makes no since to me that they will ship cheaper from there to here then what it cost to have things shipped a few hundred miles from here...LOL!

Anyway just thought I would share this here if you don't mind YILDS for another source for the good quality bearings.
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Sweet thanks! If I ever need anymore I know where to go! Ha I ordered two last year sometime when I spoke with you and still have one brand new one that is going into this newest build, but if I need any that's a good place to get them! I think I paid $25 shipped for only two of them and that ridiculous if I can get 3 for that price.
 
Yeah I just found this place in UK recently, I used to get some from motionindustries.com but it seems they dont have that size anymore, so I guess thats no longer a source for them.

Yeah, no doubt $25 for three good bearing is much better than $25 for only two and they claim to be able to get them from UK to here in 6-10 days normally, so that isn't bad either, takes me that long to get parts right here in the US sometimes.

I try to shop US when at all possible, but I try to save a buck or two when I can since I'm just a working fella and my $'s dont grow on trees..!
 
Exactly! I am glad to bulk of parts is out of the way on my end because otherwise I'd be starting to nickle and dime myself to death! Still can't beat my 27 cent free shipping piston rings I got though!
 
YesImLDS said:
Exactly! I am glad to bulk of parts is out of the way on my end because otherwise I'd be starting to nickle and dime myself to death! Still can't beat my 27 cent free shipping piston rings I got though!
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Penny auction on ebay that you scored on?
 
mapbike said:
Penny auction on ebay that you scored on?
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Yeah told ebay to bid up to a dollar for me and said what the heck it's only a dollar. Auction only ended up getting to 27 cents, they went through with it too so I got no complaints.


Also what do you think of this plug color? Still on stock jet on the PK80 motor that's on there now just want to make sure it's tuned right before I test the Lightning CDI so there are no other factors
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YesImLDS said:
Yeah told ebay to bid up to a dollar for me and said what the heck it's only a dollar. Auction only ended up getting to 27 cents, they went through with it too so I got no complaints.


Also what do you think of this plug color? Still on stock jet on the PK80 motor that's on there now just want to make sure it's tuned right before I test the Lightning CDI so there are no other factors
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Looks a little on the rich side actually, mine are more of a medium brown color when I get it dialed in, it's better to be a tad rich than it is to be to lean, but you might get a little better performance with a slight jet size reduction.

What mix are you running and what kind of oil?
 
mapbike said:
Looks a little on the rich side actually, mine are more of a medium brown color when I get it dialed in, it's better to be a tad rich than it is to be to lean, but you might get a little better performance with a slight jet size reduction.

What mix are you running and what kind of oil?
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At the moment it's basically 60:1 ratio because I am in a transitional tank to opti 2 80:1 ratio. I might ride out this tank and see how I am doing once I am running pure 80:1 91 octane w/ opti 2 to see how it looks. Also if the HD lightning does what it SAYS it does then I should have a better burn causing it to lean out a little. I should probably just stay where I am at for the time being.

Also got the front tire mounted up and mostly balanced out. Didn't realize my speedometer magnet was close to the valve stem. I moved it to the opposite side and it's only got a very slight wobble to it now. Might take a washer or something and place it with the magnet and see how it goes. Like I will say many times in this thread. Every little bit counts.

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Also installed new front brake pads as the ones I had previously sounded like a dying elephant, but I did that yesterday. Need some sort of rear braking system in the future other than the crappy coaster brake.
 
Once I get the rear wheel and sprocket on balancing that will be a good priority because at high speed it'll cause wobble which in theory would slow you down. Going to also try and get the chain to a point where I don't need to use the chain tensioner as it is dangerous enough as it is! Also it causes friction which uses energy!
 
Was looking at a couple piston pins I have accumulated from multiple top end rebuild kits and found out the lightest one is 2.6 grams lighter. Interesting how much of a difference these parts in these kits can have!
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honestly I wouldn't count on the di leaning anything out any, but yes you neednto get settled in on what mix you have in the tank, then clean that plug back to bare metal and then do the testing to see whT your plug color is gonna be, if it four stroke on the flat under medium throttle its on the rich side, mine dont four stroke at all under throttle and only slightly when throttle is applied when bike is not under any load.

the Opti2 wont run black on your plug unless your running to rich so you'll know more once you can do the testing the right way.
 
mapbike said:
honestly I wouldn't count on the di leaning anything out any, but yes you neednto get settled in on what mix you have in the tank, then clean that plug back to bare metal and then do the testing to see whT your plug color is gonna be, if it four stroke on the flat under medium throttle its on the rich side, mine dont four stroke at all under throttle and only slightly when throttle is applied when bike is not under any load.

the Opti2 wont run black on your plug unless your running to rich so you'll know more once you can do the testing the right way.
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Haha that why there was the emphasis on the SAYS. At the moment it doesn't bog or four stroke at all until I hit about 44 which I would more so assume it's saying "NO MORE NO MORE!" I'll just run this tank and see what she says once I switch over.
 
Man I can't believe I missed this posting... but it looks like you got a really good plan and should be able to hit the mid 40's no problem at all. when I'm ready to tune one of these engines I always take out the good plug, or just don't use a good one until it's broken in and tuned. If you need a good cheap set of "throw away" plugs that are light years better than those cheap ones that come in the kits, you can get teh Autolite #275 plugs in 4 packs at most auto parts stores for around $8 so if you foul one out, you can just replace with a new one once you're ready to do the plug chops for a really accurate plug reading. Then when I'm done with the plug chops, these plugs get a bath in the Berryman B9 Chem Dip for a few hours, then a spray down with carb and choke or brake cleaner, they'll still have some staining on them but they'll work like new. After the plug chops are done then it's time to spring for an irridium plug, but if you dirty or foul the irridium, the same "acid bath" mentioned above will clean them up nicely too.
I also like the Carnny frames and they do tend to hold up really well, you can always strip tehm down and go over every weld with some nickel/silver brazing rods if you see any iffy welds anywhere or need a quick way to gusset up the frame at the critical points. The nickel/silver rods can be hard to find and they're expensive, but they are just about as strong as a good weld and you can do teh job with mapp gas if no welding equipment is available.
I see you're also doing an excellent job shaving off all the unnecessary weight on the rotating compunents, you're right, every little bit helps here...
 
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Well I am hoping to be in the low fifties as the current motor with a terribly cast crank can hit 44 on flat. I need to work out braking here pretty quick as I need to stop this sucker! Been looking at some disc brake sets for the front it's just I don't want to have to invest two hundred on a good fork and disc brake set for a $97 bike.

Also that's a BPR8HIX Iridium plug that's in there. I want to run that for the time being because of the Fred Head that's on the bike. Just a colder plug for the higher compression to make it run a little better and cooler? Like I said I am only running 91 octane with no ethanol.

When it comes to the motor I hope to have everything that rotates lightened where applicable as you can tell above. Going to try and balance out the wheels as well, might even have to get another set of wheels

Something else I wanted to do was expand out the rear wheel mounting points and fit a mountain bike wheel in there so I could have some better starting power and I could help in the low end a little bit because due to the 32T sprocket and all the high end mods it would be a pooch in the low end.

I am hoping the 38mm crank will rev a little bit higher than this 40mm. My previous GT5 bottom end that MapBike now has a hold of was able to hit 45 on flat with just a milled head, 36T sprocket, unramped piston and a speed carb as well as some porting of the intake and exhaust manifolds and ports. Never touched the transfer ports on that engine. It was even on the same bike. So theoretically with the Fred Head, 32T sprocket, and the transfer ports being cleaned up and polish up I should be around low fifty. And if that doesn't cut it the Snake exhaust, balancing the wheels, and cutting down weight where possible should! Then we need to see what the HD lightning does.
 
could you get a chance to throw a measuring tape on the exhaust? length and diameter please. im not sure if i want to buy one but im thinking about it.


i have 2 piaggio scooter pipes here and they are very large! i have a tecnigas and a hebo and the hebo is much nicer and its very easy to duplicate. let me know anyone if you want dimensions. they make peak power at 9000 rpm and 7-10 hp at the wheel. the stock 50cc ports make 7hp. 70cc makes 8-10 depending on cylinder.

i have a stock 50cc jug port map and a 70cc port map aswell as a sport 50cc port map good for 12000 rpm. the china girl motors port map looks strangly good. any more than raising the jug 2mm is overkill.

exhaust at 23-24mm down and transfers at 32mm would be great for any motor with a 40mm stroke.
 
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frank66 said:
could you get a chance to throw a measuring tape on the exhaust? length and diameter please. im not sure if i want to buy one but im thinking about it.


i have 2 piaggio scooter pipes here and they are very large! i have a tecnigas and a hebo and the hebo is much nicer and its very easy to duplicate. let me know anyone if you want dimensions. they make peak power at 9000 rpm and 7-10 hp at the wheel. the stock 50cc ports make 7hp. 70cc makes 8-10 depending on cylinder.

i have a stock 50cc jug port map and a 70cc port map aswell as a sport 50cc port map good for 12000 rpm. the china girl motors port map looks strangly good. any more than raising the jug 2mm is overkill.

exhaust at 23-24mm down and transfers at 32mm would be great for any motor with a 40mm stroke.
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The snake exhaust is 30" in length, with what seems to be 7/8" exhaust piping. I am using 1" piping and cutting the exhaust back another inch where it would attach to blend the piping in better. Is there any other dimensions you want? I guess I only assumed length and the diameter of where it attaches.
 
Been thinking about just buying a mountain bike with front discs already installed on it. The problem is finding on that'll fit and engine with a fred head on it. Any ideas?
 
i guess the bevel on the piston 2mm for the transfers would be amazing if the exhaust is atleast 24mm from top of cylinder. that would get you there.

just a new flat file would be far better than the grinding tools on the piston next time around.

thanks for the dimensions on the pipe. im guessing the header should be not to long like 6-12 inchess or something maybe.

what max rpm you searching for ?
 
i had a handmade cromo brodie frame 10 years ago that would have been nice. maybe a used giant sport hybrid w discs. or a cheap micargi.
 
Probably going to be around 10,000 rpm maximum. I don't really know what the header length will be, that might be something that will be found out once I get to building the exhaust up. Probably around 9-10 inches for a higher rpm boost of power. Restricted by bends in the exhaust though is my problem. I don't have the ability to bend much more than what I already have. I have access to an EMT pipe bender so I could always try to get a little more out of it if necessary.

Also when ramping pistons I use a table grinder for the grunt work then clean it up with a dremel and then finish it off with some sanding to get it nice and even. A file would probably work better though.
 
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