High Performance Wally World Cruiser?

[YesImLDS]

Hey everybody I would like to introduce you to my most recent build. It's a Huffy Cranbrook at the moment and I hope to have a gem here sometime in the near future! I bought the bike for $97 at Wally world and it's already on it's second motor, but I have always wanted a high performance AND reliable ride.

So to accomplish that goal I have compiled a crap ton of parts and plan on building myself a little gem. So to begin I present to you the bike and the way it looked a couple weeks ago. The current engine is a PK80 I bought on Ebay from Rose and I must say I am completely disappointed in it. Had all the bells and whistles with some extras and it still couldn't keep up with my previous GT5. I decided to take this one off and keep it as a spare or who knows I might sell it. It works fine just isn't the best.

In this picture the exhaust is taken off, but it gives a good idea what I'm working with.

ALSO I WOULD LIKE TO GIVE A SHOUT OUT TO MAPBIKE FOR HELPING ME COMPILE PARTS AND GIVING ME GREAT ADVICE. I APPRECIATE IT!

 

[YesImLDS]

Pile of parts I picked up yesterday! Total of 13 packages came in prepping me for this build. You all wanna know what's in them?

 

[Semaj]

You master of suspense! You know we do! Say, whats the diameter of the seatpost hole on that cruiser? and is it a steel frame?

 

[YesImLDS]

Haha Hey Semaj, I'll pull up the parts list and start typing away at what all is in it. Also I believe the seatpost diameter is 1 inch and it is a steel frame. Stay tuned for parts and pictures of parts so far.

 

[YesImLDS]

So like I said above I wanted power and reliability. Which don't usually come hand in hand.

For this build I wanted to keep the rotational mass low for higher rpms as well a quality bearings and all that jazz to keep it going!

The Huffy Cranbrook has a mountain bike front fork swapped on for front brakes as well as front shock to keep vibrations down! I plan on upgrading brakes to probably discs at some point because I want to have that safety just in case I don't have enough room to stop!

Parts List:
Dax lower end
Type B Piston (We'll get to that in a minute)
Type B Cylinder Jug
MM CNC Intake
Speed NT Carb
Piston Rings
Retaining Clips
Head Gasket
Base Gasket
Snake Exhaust
HD Lightning CDI (Going to test this for differences between stock)
2 New Tires
New Brakes (As we all know I gotta stop somehow)
Jetting and Porting supplies (Thanks again MapBike for links and info)
BRP8HIX Spark Plug
Fred Head 6cc
32T Sprocket
Japanese wristpin bearing
Homemade velocity stack

So here is a couple pictures of the unpacked stuff!
Everything all sprawled out

I don't really have pictures of everything, but here are a couple of the exciting things, except the fred head don't have a picture of that because it's on my PK80 at the moment.

Dax Lower End! I was expecting a Type A bottom end, but ended up with a GT5 upgraded bottom end. GT5 due to the shorter stroke are usually able to get a few hundred more rpm out of them. I was going to say something the Dax about it as I have never heard of someone getting a GT5 dax bottom end, but I decided to keep it and tinker with it because I loved my GT5 that I first started with and hope to have another good running engine out of this one, but it also set me back a couple weeks as now I have to wait for a new jug and piston to arrive.

Really wasn't expecting the Type b bottom end

32T Sprocket! I lightened this up to make the rotational mass slightly smaller. Ended up taking around 28 grams off of it which is more than 1/8 of it's mass. EVERY LITTLE BIT COUNTS

 

[YesImLDS]

Japanese Wristpin Bearing, a couple grams lighter on the top end and more reliable

Snake Exhaust! Going to have a beefy 1 Inch exhaust. Should flow great and give me a little boost over the SBP exhaust I have and if it doesn't my buddy can always use a better exhaust than the one he has now!

New tires to keep me right side down. Kenda K838. Previous tires were the same and I always liked them so why change em!? Just get some new ones!

Velocity stack cup, going to try and convert this cup into a velocity stack, if anything it'll look cool lol. Might not even use it!

HD Lightning CDI, hoping it'll give me a little more of a power band and a little more top speed, but we will see! I'll post some videos on how it works out!

 

[YesImLDS]

Just a little more in depth on the plans for the bike. Once I get my Type B Jug and Type B piston in I plan to thoroughly lighten the piston. 12 3/16th holes, cut the skirt to open up the intake and get rid of excess on the exhaust side, as well as ramp the piston so the transfer ports are more exposed and the exhaust flows out a little better. The Jug itself will be decked so the piston comes to the top of it without hitting the head if necessary as well as the intake, exhaust and transfer ports will all be thoroughly deburred, ported and polish. The dax bottom end won't have much done to it unless I were to open it up, but for the time being I plan on expanding the transfer ports to match the jug where applicable. With the lightweight piston it should make it quite a bit more balanced and able to handle some higher rpms without shaking itself to an untimely death. Going to try to keep the compression at a reasonable pressure as I plan to use 91 octane with no ethanol in it which should be okay with what the plans are and if I have some pre-detonation I'll figure that out when the time comes!

It will be a fun project and quite the learning experience as I haven't had this in depth of a build from the beginning!

 

[bluegoatwoods]

Wow! You are going in depth, aren't you?

I can't make any reasonable comments on the engine work, in fact. Because I've never gone into them that deeply.

But I have had a motorized Cranbrook. And it was a good frame for the job. But I'll bet you already know that since it looks like you've already got a few miles on it. And, yes, it's steel and the seatpost is 1 inch, or 25.4 mm.

 

[mapbike]

Nice looking stack of stuff there YILDS,

If your results are the same as mine the only thing I see in the stack of stuff that wont add any performance gains is the CDI kit, my personal testing on two different bikes and two different engine set ups showed no improvements over what the stock kit CDI delivered, but I do like that it has a good coil and I like the key switch, it does a good job and allows the engine to rev just as good as the stock unit unlike the Rocket CDI I bought or the older style jaguar CDI which decreased my top speed by a few MPH when I used either of those units compared to the stock unit or the Lightening CDI.

The Lightening is a well made unit and it does work good, and who knows maybe your results will be different than mine, I just didn't see any performance gains with top speed testing or testing on hills to see if my mph would be better or worse when pulling hills and such.

As far as the bike your using, I like the Huffy Bikes myself, I have one that I put together back in 2010, it probably has about 1000 miles on it now and hasn't given me any trouble, the coaster hub they use on these bikes isn't as good as a good Shimano hub but mine has held up just fine so far.

I think you're gonna have a real nice build when you get done, if you do the right things to the engine you should have a 40+mph bike that should cruise nicely in the upper 30's-40's mph.

Best wishes with the new build, hope it does just what you want it to do and proves to be as reliable as a china girl engine can be.

 

[YesImLDS]

Thanks guys and Map I mostly bought the Lightning to see if it would give any gains. I'm going to have a testing between the stock CDI and the Lightning and film the differences with my go pro and use my phone as a speedometer. Need to figure out a set-up first. NEED to get everything put together first!

Items that might be considered further down the build is a bigger carb and reed valves, but we will see where we get with this first as there is something as TOO fast and this already over that I believe. My junker PK80 hits 40-45 easy and that's too much, but why not try for 50!?

 

[YesImLDS]

Also for a lot of these items I will be making youtube videos for benefits and performance differences between stock and the chosen item etc etc.

 

[gokart25]

I like the snake pipe... Where did you get it? do you have a link?

 

[YesImLDS]

This is the link where I bought it from, but be warned it isn't a bolt on part and you have to create a header that works for it. I'm using some 1" piping, but I have to make a custom mounting plate to make it work as well as I have to cut the pipe back just a hair to make it flow in right.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/X1-X2-POCKET-BIKE-PERFORMANCE-EXHAUST-PIPE-parts-49cc-/400837883675?

 

[mapbike]

Thanks guys and Map I mostly bought the Lightning to see if it would give any gains. I'm going to have a testing between the stock CDI and the Lightning and film the differences with my go pro and use my phone as a speedometer. Need to figure out a set-up first. NEED to get everything put together first!

Items that might be considered further down the build is a bigger carb and reed valves, but we will see where we get with this first as there is something as TOO fast and this already over that I believe. My junker PK80 hits 40-45 easy and that's too much, but why not try for 50!?

I understand completely, that is the same reason i got my lightening CDi, just wanted to see if it lived up to the hype and if I could actually see any performance gains on any of my bikes compared to the stock unit, I have stated my results but I wont say someone else wont see something different.

My fastest bike would run 50.3 mph according to my GPS with the Lightening unit and the same bike actually registered 52.0 mph with my stock unit on the same day and on the exact stretch of road.

Your results may be different than mine and if so that is great.

I have found that some things claimed to help performance actually do help and some things that are claimed to help performance didn't do a thing for my engines and in some cases actually decreased performance.

Some of the stuff is just trial and error until we find what we think works best for us and then we stick with that, part of the fun of all of it is trying new things and experimenting to see what we like best and what we can tailor to our likes and needs for the type riding we do, since I ride open road a lot for longer distances rather than just hopping around in town from block to block, like my bikes to have better performance at faster cruise speeds and since I live in an area that doesnt have huge long hills I can gear my bikes for the way I like to ride without many issues.

I dont really need expansion pipe exhaust for low to mid range power boost, I just need something that will flow good so I can reach the rpm's I need for the best cruise speeds on the long stretches of road I like to ride.

If I were just zipping around inside town a lot with a lot of stop and go riding id have my bikes set up different and probably run abot a 40T on the rear and try to get my exhaust tuned for good low to mid power and I'd shoot for a top speed of about 35 mph that I could get to as quickly as possible, my bikes aren't ideal for a lot of in town riding since they have small rear sprocket and are better suited for long stretches of 40+ mph cruising.

you'll have a good set up when you get done sounds like, I do think you will nee to modify the "snake pipe" exit diameter to get the flow for ever seeing a 50 mph top speed, but I could be wrong and you may get it done without needing to increase flow capability, my 45mph bike would not do more than 37mph on the flat with that chamber and a 3/4" ID header pipe, I think the header pipe on mine being only 3/4" was my biggest problem and that will get changed eventually and I'll try it again.

 

[mapbike]

Also for a lot of these items I will be making youtube videos for benefits and performance differences between stock and the chosen item etc etc.

You show that you are gonna be using a good Japanese mad upper bearing, just curious about where you got the bearing and is it 15mm in width?

 

[YesImLDS]

You show that you are gonna be using a good Japanese mad upper bearing, just curious about where you got the bearing and is it 15mm in width?

Pretty sure I talked to you about the bearing in the past before this recent build. It's KT101415 Needle Roller Bearing ID 10 x OD 14 x L 15mm IKO from bearings direct. Been running it in my current engine with no problems.

 

[YesImLDS]

Today bought some better hardware to keep the rear sprocket on nice and tight with some high quality hardware. 8.8 Class with nylon lock nuts. Like I said every little bit counts when it comes to unsprung mass even if it is on a couple grams. Anyways here is the stock stuff which is SUPER light which shows in quality. They are m6x1.00x40mm.

The new stuff which are a lot more high quality are 1/4 (because 1/4 was like 1/6th the price of the metric replacements and will work fine) are a little bit shorter (about 1cm) and can take a lot more abuse guaranteed compared to the china crap.

Realistically there will be no gain as it's literally 2 grams, but I am more going for the safety side of things. I just like my new scale I got ha!

Bought some Opti-2 today as it seems that is the favorite oil being used on the forum. Got it while I was getting the bolts and thought I'd try it out compared to my semi-synthetic wally world oil.

The rest of today's plans are to mount up the front wheel with the new tire and try to balance it out. Don't want to do the rear yet because I want to mount of that other sprocket, but don't have a chain tool in my apartment to shorten it up. Might do a couple other odds and ends but I am limited in what I can do at home and not at the family shop.

 

[frank66]

whats next? lots of little jobs....

for the exhaust layout? did you have something in mind? i was thinking or picturing rather- along the frame down tube / outlet under the crank. and a knee guard of course.
but any way/ anything will be great im sure. i have a cranbrook needing a pipe so i will stay posted.

 

[YesImLDS]

whats next? lots of little jobs....

for the exhaust layout? did you have something in mind? i was thinking or picturing rather- along the frame down tube / outlet under the crank. and a knee guard of course.
but any way/ anything will be great im sure. i have a cranbrook needing a pipe so i will stay posted.

Absolutely a ton of little jobs! As for the exhaust layout I am more thinking down and under the frame and out back by the end of the wheel, but I guess I'll figure that one out when I am at the shop. Problem is I only have what is available to me at hardware stores so I have swooping 90 degree angles and 45 degree angles which make it hard for tight turns.

What I think I will be doing. Obviously it'll probably change, but this was kind of a feeler type way of looking at it.

The current PK80 engine that is on there has a SBP expansion chamber that is routed around the front of the frame and tucked up against the side of the head inbetween the frame and my right leg.

 

[mapbike]

Pretty sure I talked to you about the bearing in the past before this recent build. It's KT101415 Needle Roller Bearing ID 10 x OD 14 x L 15mm IKO from bearings direct. Been running it in my current engine with no problems.

Yes that's where I have got some of mine also, never had any issues with them.

I've also ordered these form the UK, they are IKO Bearings and are cheaper than getting them here in the states which is just crazy in my opinion.

http://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/p9...e+Roller+Bearing+10x14x15mm/product_info.html

Bearings Direct is $8.50 each plus shipping, in the UK is just E3.35 = $5.06 US shipped from there to the US, I just ordered three more a few minutes ago for $25.29 total cost and shipping is E6.23 = $9.42

Makes no since to me that they will ship cheaper from there to here then what it cost to have things shipped a few hundred miles from here...LOL!

Anyway just thought I would share this here if you don't mind YILDS for another source for the good quality bearings.