Hi, and need help, bad clutch

Discussion in 'Motorized Bicycle General Discussion' started by pavsmonkey, Aug 26, 2010.

  1. pavsmonkey

    pavsmonkey New Member

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    Hey, I'm new to this. Put my first build together three weeks ago.
    Brand new Grubee Skyhawk GT5. Unfortunately, I bought from King'sMotorBikes.com and I cannot get any help out of them at all.
    The clutch simply doesn not budge, won't disengage. The peg that is controlled by the clutch arm won't move at all.
     
  2. Goat Herder

    Goat Herder Gutter Rider

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    Welcome the the forum! Check your first post:)
     
  3. poo poo pipe

    poo poo pipe New Member

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    I to ordered from Kings and was really sorry that i did after reading others experiences,but i got my motor quickly with all parts so far so good,On my clutch before i even started the motor i removed the cover and tapped gently the clutch outer ring while moving the clutch lever in and out. It broke loose after a few taps, now after one hour of break in time the cable snapped. Havent tried contacting them yet...
     
  4. Bikeguy Joe

    Bikeguy Joe Godfather of Motorized Bicycles

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    That's what I said! :)
     
  5. Bikeguy Joe

    Bikeguy Joe Godfather of Motorized Bicycles

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    Five posts for the same thing...
     
  6. Goat Herder

    Goat Herder Gutter Rider

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    The cables are a dime a dozen just get a brake cable and replace it. It will prolly be more heavy duty.:)


    Just give that thing a tap!
     
  7. pavsmonkey

    pavsmonkey New Member

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    Hmm. Interesting. I'll try that. Thanks for the quick replies.
     
  8. paul

    paul Active Member

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  9. pavsmonkey

    pavsmonkey New Member

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    Yeah, I saw that. It's awesome. Also, the tutorials under Classic Posts.

    BTW, I adjusted the tightening nut til I took it completely off, and it made no difference.
     
  10. paul

    paul Active Member

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  11. pavsmonkey

    pavsmonkey New Member

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    OMG! Thank you soo much.
     
  12. KCvale

    KCvale Well-Known Member

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    If you ordered Grubee from Kings 3 weeks ago it is not a new 2010 EPA certified motor, is a 2009 or older they had in stock as only gasbike.net is authorized to sell the new 2010's with a 6 month warranty and great phone support.

    That means it not only sat on a literally slow boat from China over a year ago, it has sat in a warehouse ever since.

    For the most part I have seen and posted about here many a time is the grease dries between the drive shaft and the clutch plate mount shaft sitting that long.
    Sure, the clutch plate moves away from the pads, but the shafts are stuck together with dried grease.

    Just pop the right side cover plate.

    [​IMG]

    Remove the locking screw and undo the 'flower nut'.
    Pushing down on the plate makes this easy.

    [​IMG]

    Then make sure you have the motor drive engaged somehow so the piston won't move and with a lever like a long screwdriver and just use two of three transfer prongs for leverage to break it free.

    [​IMG]

    For the most part I don't get to finding this being a problem until the bike is build and has the chain on.

    This kind of stinks as you need to pull the plug and put a wooden dowel or other item that will keep the piston from moving, lift the real wheel, and break it free so the back wheel will move from that leverage turn without the motor moving.

    THIS IS ABSOLUTELY CRUCIAL!

    Do NOT use that center pin that disengages the clutch plate as a lever fulcrum point!
    Look at the last pic closely.
    Though close, I am pushing Down on the screwdriver to break the dried grease free using only two of those drive shaft studs and not the center.

    Once you get how this works it really is a quick fix.
    Just smear in some new real grease and not motor oil or god forbid WD-40 and you are set to go.

    As you adjust the flower nut back on, if you are chained up and clutch adjusted, just tweak it down until you disengage nice with the clutch locked, and engaged when you let it out, and don't forget to put that little screw back to hold the flower nut in place!
    A little LockTight here is a good thing too.
     
    #12 KCvale, Aug 26, 2010
    Last edited: Aug 26, 2010
  13. pavsmonkey

    pavsmonkey New Member

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    Awesome! Thanks. Ima try it tonight.
     
  14. pavsmonkey

    pavsmonkey New Member

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    YAY!! It works. I pulled out the pin and ball bearing, sprayed carb cleaner to clean out the gooky old grease. Did similar on other side. Regreased. Clutch works great.

    Now I gotta figure out how to get the chain better aligned. Coming off the sprocket in the engine.

    dance1

    Thanks so much, guys.
     
  15. KCvale

    KCvale Well-Known Member

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    No problem ;-}
    Got a picture of the drive train?
    Some things are easy to spot, some much harder.
     
  16. pavsmonkey

    pavsmonkey New Member

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    Na. No camera on hand. But I turned the rear sprocket around, and the alignment is good. The noise and mangling of the chain are from the casing around the motor's sprocket being too snug. Boy, I miss my Dremel tool.

    The chain is coming off because my motor mounting is sparse. When I engage the clutch, it twists on the upright bar. I need to add some retaining screws or something to keep it from twisting.
     
  17. KCvale

    KCvale Well-Known Member

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    That twisting is what your front motor mount is supposed to prevent.
     
  18. pavsmonkey

    pavsmonkey New Member

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    K. Now I know where to put my focus. Thanks.

    I had to use the adapter for large diameter frames, so the motor is bolted by two bolts to a plate that's bolted to the frame by one bolt. It twists.
     
    #18 pavsmonkey, Aug 28, 2010
    Last edited: Aug 28, 2010

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