Help Me Please..Fed up with this bike!!

[K2961]

First, Thank you to anyone who replies...I am not a mechanic so please keep it simple..I have learned a lot about the bike but not anything super technical.

1) The bike drive sprocket is locked up, it wont move, not backward, not forward. I saw a youtube video saying that I should remove the drive sprocket and file it to fix the problem?

2) I removed the right side clutch plate to manually move the sprocket and it wont budge.

3) I've had the motor eat a chain before and bend it to shreds, so I'm wondering if the drive sprocket itself is bad?

 

[Greg58]

You said it won't move, is the chain on it? If so the chain may be binding on the case. All that's inside the cases is a couple of bearings and the clutch spring, remove the clutch cable stand off which is almost directly over the center of the clutch shaft to add a little grease, some engines I've broke down didn't have sealed bearings and needed lubing. If you pry on the gear will it turn?

 

[Greg58]

This is whats inside.

 

[Greg58]

Here's another.

 

[crassius]

first, you need to find why it won't move - you have pressure plate off, so take out plug and see if it moves or if it shows not even a little motion on motion on clutch side trying to move the gears

if there is no motion, take off chain and try to turn nut in drive sprocket clockwise with your plug wrench - it it turns, then it is a chain problem, if not, it is a shaft or bearing problem

I would suspect a chain problem tho as that's what it usually is.

if all else fails, I'l give you a quarter for it : )

 

[Kletus]

I had this same problem. The chain rollers got stuck in the engine sprocket. Bought another one and it did the same thing. You need one of those tools that pulls the sprocket. Cost is only about 3 bucks plus shipping. Check Ebay. When you get the sprocket off your going to have to gently pry the chain from the sprocket and file both the insides of all the teeth. front and back sides just enough where the chain roller will clear and not stick I filed a new taper about a 3rd of the way from the top. When you can put the chain half way around the sprocket you will be done. Dot not over file.

 

[mogollonmonster]

Just get a new sprocket, it's like three bucks. Read the side of yer chain, any quality chain should have a name brand and size stamped into at least one link. With the pulling tool, yer up to a ten spot. It should be either 410 or 415 size chain.

If you're comfortable with your file skills, go to it, but using a file properly is a dying art, and if you're not confident, don't bother. My grandaddy taught me how to make most any metal part with a hacksaw, drill and file. Add in a set of taps and dies, and you can make just about anything with a little skill and practice.

 

[Kletus]

What have you got to lose. If indeed the chain is stuck in the sprocket chuck the sprocket up in a vise and mark the tooth you start with. Start the filing 1/3 of the way down from the top of the tooth tapering towards the top of the tooth. Keep the file at 90 degrees to the tooth. Give the leading and trailing edge of each tooth 10 cutting strokes of the file keeping a firm and steady pressure. After you have gone all the way around try to wrap the chain half way around the sprocket if it wont wrap freely repeat this process until it does. Before starting this process order a new sprocket so if the filing is a failure you'll have a new sprocket on the way. Order from one of the more reputable dealers like DAX. Make sure the sprocket you are ordering is compatible with your chain. On the side of the chain the side plate should be stamped 415h or 410 etc. Ask the vendor if his sprockek is compatible with that number. Here ia a link on ebay for a puller for $5 and free shipping. http://www.ebay.com/itm/80cc-Motori...643928?hash=item33ba0b7058:g:OiUAAOxybetSApQT I cut mine with a Dremel tool and a small stone on the bike but first you will have to remove the chain. Inspect the chain and if it is bent or the rollers are cracked or broken replace the chain along with the sprocket. When your done and the chain is installed you should be able to rotate the rear wheel and not hear any popping or snapping. the chain should rotate smoothly through both sprockets with the clutch disengaged.

 

[K2961]

Ok!!! To All who replied, Thank you!!
I pulled the spark plug and got sprocket play
I filed the sprocket and the casing as it was rubbing against it
I replaced the fuel filter and installed a new chain
Now I'm cruisin, though i have had so many snags once I get into a long ride
My sprocket adapter mod hex bolts keep coming out
The carb just pops off sometimes while riding
and the chain keeps getting chewed up somehow..
I've checked and rechecked the alignment. all the links and have just reserved that I must have extra chain lying around for when it inevitably gets chewed up

 

[mogollonmonster]

If your chain is eating at the case, specifically at the back of the magneto cover, you have too much slack in the chain. As The Wise One 2Door has said...

With the clutch out, roll the bike forward until the piston catches. This puts all the slack on the top of the chain, that's where you need to check it. 1/2-3/4 if an inch is perfect...

That might be paraphrasing, but it's still the same info, and it is Law for direct drive ChinaGirls. Also blue Loctite is your friend, especially with his buddies in the grade 8 and higher metric section of your local hardware store. Beware your tensioner my friend, If possible, shorten your chain and loose that piece of evil, If not, bare with me as I too seek the elusive "Perfect Tensioner"... Still you should not be munching chains...Tanglebones put around 4,000 miles on the first stock chain, it's outlasted the motor that ran it.