Help is my Cylinder RUINED or NOT?

The problem is trying to find a SkyHawk cylinder. Usually you don't know what you're buying because the sellers are typically vague about what brand a part fits.
 
piston bikes should have the skyhawk jug. i bought 5 of them a while ago. just tell them that's the one you need.
 
Thanks for the rambling rambler but it just seems like you have some animosity towards the Chinese lol. Hey that's my bread and butter and maintenance upkeep happened after every ride. And I'm something like a perfectionist so I made sure I took care of mine. Tighten these and make sure those are tightened too after every shutoff.
So don't assume I just ran it into the ground and thought it would break buckle or burn then just fix itself. I'm still on my break in stage so I haven't even pushed it to wide open yet.
I don't mind a little trial and error..it builds knowledge for the next trial and makes for conversation pieces.
So thanks for the suggestion but hit the back space on those assumptions.
Happy riding rider.

I was simply trying to help.
Since you seem offended, next time I'll just scroll past your posts.
Have a nice day!
 
Try it without the hose clamps and get back to us.

JB Weld can handle 500 degrees barely, but that not going to be enough for holding exhaust studs.

Those clamps are just to hold the tiger tape they are just cheap HF clamps
and they are clamping on a metal pipe lets see you bend a metal pipe with
a hose clamp cheez
sometimes it's the driver and not the car get my drift
 
LOL...now now.

For the record, my first engine was a GT5. I seized it at about 500 miles (mix ignorance). When I opened her up, I found that the piston/jug were recoverable and the rings were OK. However, the index-pin on the upper ring-groove fell out while I was inspecting. Out of desperation, I SteelStiked the pin back in. It held up for another 1000-miles until the upper needle bearing exploded and caused my jug to crack on a transfer skirt. The piston's pin is STILL solidly seated. I'd reuse the piston, but my other engines are X80s. On a related note, does anyone know of discrepancies between the GT5's 47mm rings and the other engines'? I have a pair of rings from the GT5 that I tried to use on one of my X80s recently, and the piston would JUST not fit into the jug.
 
Was thinking of that, waiting for someone to bring it up.
I would have, but never used the stuff, so I don't know how good it is, according to YouTube it's good stuff and may fix this large hole we got here.
 
One of the problems might be the opoor quality of the metal holdong the studs?
No, it couldn't be!

I think it's because the holes are to big and the studs don't have enough surface area on the threads to hang on to.
 
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New jug. End of discussion. Anything else Might work, maybe, sometimes, once in a while, Works on this, not on that, ect. Do it and do it right, Why are we talking about anything else?
fatdaddy.
 
Dang, Didn't mean to put a complete end to this thread. Thought I'd get at least a LITTLE argument. It's been 3 days and nothin.
fatdaddy.
 
LOL...

I have a pair of rings from the GT5 that I tried to use on one of my X80s recently, and the piston would JUST not fit into the jug.

That would be a good thing allow you to lap it oversized might have to re-crome
afterwards but would give that little extra umph
 
Can you bore and thread the port and screw in some threaded pipe? Either a complete exhaust or some pipe with a flange on it, to screw your old exhaust onto?
 
Thanks but I've already replaced it. I meant to heli coil it first but it's already been done so I'm not gonna go in and mess with it.
 
Another option - for those who have yet too or have recently ruined a stud / hole - is that the attachment of the exhaust to the cylinder is ONLY to support ONE end of the exhaust pipe AND to make a reasonable gas seal between the exhaust port and the exhaust pipe.


Sure the original bolt together option is GOOD, but using a better grade or threaded fastener, spring washers, nuts and locking nuts will make it better.

But there are OTHER options such as

Re drilling and rethreading the hole with a larger fine metric thread.

Heli-Coiling (threaded insert)

Using stiff hook type springs to hold the muffler on. (spring wire under cheap bed frames etc.)

Some kind of clip or hose clamp around the frame and the pipe...

Cutting away the flange on the exhaust pipe and shaping it to the same size as the inside of the port... and doing a partial insertion....

Boring the port and making a threaded insert that holds the exhaust pipe.



There are the issues of is this a "keep me running" fix - to get me home or keep it running for the next week or 2 or 3 months, or a proper repair?

An alteration of the residual cylinder pressure can alter the performance of the engine (low powered and LEAN running) which if bad enough and in the right circumstances, can cook and seize an engine., so a really leaky exhaust is not a good idea.

So what are TEN good ways to attach an exhaust pipe to a cylinder, when one or both studs are gone?

Love creative solutions.
 
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