Hello from Erie, PA

[hotbug1776]

Hello, I'm Andrew.

I'm a 35 year old father of 4 who is going to start his first motor assisted bicycle build.

I just today purchased TWO Op Roller bikes for $80 new at Wally-world.
They were half off a reduced price due to them being outside during a remodel of the store (some surface rust on the steel parts, and a few nicks on the paint)

I plan on a Piston bikes Grubee 48cc kit for one, and possibly a 66cc kit for the other.

I'm not interested in speed, as I live about 3miles from work. I am looking at $4+ for gas and my car being bored, stroked, and blown. I'd rather ride to work and sip gas than burn $50 plus a week on premium gas.

Any experienced fat frame center mount builders who have words of wisdom, or, anyone in the Erie, Pa local who want's to meet, give me a yell.

I'll try to post up progress pics starting tomorrow, depending on the weather and my motivation.

 

[Fulltimer]

Hello Hot Bug and welcome to the forum! I used to live in Meadville but the truth be told...I don't miss the winters at all! Good luck on the build and yes, post pictures.

Terry

 

[Goat Herder]

Howdy welcome to the forum biker!

 

[chainmaker]

Hey welcome to the forum!!! The cruiser is a great bike to do. Im not personally familiar with the bikes you are using but... the Wally world bikes usually need some attention to the wheels (they are usually kind of crappy) and brakes. You need good brakes and strong wheels. After that I would get an expansion chamber, a billet intake and match the ports. That should have you zipping around pretty good.

Cheers

 

[hotbug1776]

Ok, bought a 66cc kit from pirate cycles, I know it's not "legal", but, I'm almost 300lbs and am worried that the 49 cc would be too small for my beefy frame.

I'm going to build a 49cc with the other frame, that way if I start getting looks I'll just switch bikes for a few days and be "legal"

On a side note... I am looking for head and tail lights. I am looking for a classic look, round with a visor, and it should be bright, as I'll be riding at night.

My ride will mainly consist of a bike/walking trail during evening and afternoon hours.

 

[hotbug1776]

Well, I got it running... AWESOME!!!

it JUST catches the rear tire with the chain.
It vibrates the mounts loose so I'll be adding rubber and loctiting the bolts.
I still have to support the exhaust to the frame, that's a custom piece.
The wiring needs extended a couple inches, but it's most likely a routing thing. It runs within a half of an inch of the exhaust.
Also, the chain seems to need one more link removed, but I'll tension it for now, as it will need some time to stretch.

 

[Goat Herder]

Here is a read for ya considering mounts. http://motorbicycling.com/f6/rubber-not-27364.html

 

[hotbug1776]

Ok, after the read, I just used loctite, no rubber. Real smooth ride now.

I am going to mod the tensioner with the TSC sprocket. I'm getting a front brake and I ordered some cushman cable stops for the clutch cable. I need to lube the cables to smooth the action out.

Future: worksman wheels, pirate cycles hub kit, rear hand brakes, more. Lol

 

[hotbug1776]

I just robbed my son's old BMX for the brakes, fit Perfectly!!!!!

I just need to mount the handle, and adjust for proper alignment and I will have saved myself $20 a new set would have cost me!!!

Oh and Idler sprocket and cable stops are at the parents house now.

Good times, this makes me feel ALIVE again, all this customization and creativity.

 

[hotbug1776]

Well, second voyage, to work today, had a few "hiccups" this time.

Ride there was perfect (1.6 miles)
Got there and noticed the rear mount bolts were loose, funny, since they were loctited in.
Went in to work, had a meeting, came out, front tire completely flat, blown tube.
First break, I go out to check on the rear mount, one bolt, snapped of flush with the case, the other loose, dammit.

On the way to work, the motor had started sputtering, surging, and spitting fuel out of the carb, possible stuck float? I noticed the fuel line was full, as in prior to this the line always had some air in it, but now it's like the motor has a large amount of draw on the fuel tank.

The trip home, I get almost home and the clutch cable breaks, needless to say, no more stops. Also, the rear mount separates from the case.

When I get home, I notice the exhaust gasket is blown and there is a black spray all over the motor and frame.

Conclusion: I need a Delorto, helicoils, grade 8 hardware, better gasketing, heavy duty cables, and patience.

But what a great feeling while it lasted.

 

[MEASURE TWICE]

Welcome a bit late in reply..... I suspect you have icy weather by now. I used to live in New York and just hearing of some posts on MB, that some have been in mishaps that were not other vehicle involved, please be careful if like this.

My motor bike like before back in the 70's, a Briggs DIY 3hp 4stroke, I never really had a lot of stuff loosening. I think then it was just split lock washers I used. Now I have used those or external tooth star lock washers and the nuts with nylon locking. To add to that Loctite Blue I will eventually do, but using a primer that I heard is sometimes necessary with inactive metals (like stainless steel). This primer prep Loctite 7649 I got and use it immediately before putting the threadloc on.

http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/t_lkr_blue/overview/Loctite-Threadlocker-Blue-242.htm

http://tds.loctite.com/tds5/docs/7649-EN.pdf

Another primer of Henkel which maybe I understand is the parent company of Loctite has this other primer Loctite 7088 and on the page mentions about the science of the primer. Metals low in ions? All I remember from back in school was something about valance where electrons were shared? Probably wiki it and see more.

http://www.henkelna.com/industrial/loctite-quickstix-7088-primer-6827.htm

http://www.henkelna.com/us/content_data/quickstix_7088_primer_press_release.pdf

Looking closer this type is a non liquid type in stick form for primer before threadloc.

FYI from the above pdf

Loctite® QuickStix™ 7088™ Primer is recommended for use on plated, anodized and galvanized
parts, and inactive metals such as titanium, zinc, aluminum and others. It is especially effective on cold metals and challenging assemblies that feature large gaps or deep threads.

I tried using it with the threadloc on a universal joint of a windsurf board, but it always loosened anyway. Finally a tech at the shop took the stud threads on each end and put them to the space between a falling hammer and an anvil. It was just enough to deform the threads but they would go in and never move again. Since this part unlike the threaded stuff on motor bikes can't use the same approach as it is not speratable, please don't use this way. Since the rubber universal joint will eventually break in time, the only thing wasted are a few parts costing less than $20 that are permanently attached to the universal joint when it is tossed out. It is better than having it separate on the water though.

MT

 

[Lance Portnoff]

wow I wanted to tell u about jays ride in Pa in Aug, I guess you have plenty of time to fix all your stuff

 

[thegnu]

Hey , welcome fellow pennsylvainian ,I am down near pittsburgh lets see some pics of that bike .
Gary