Grubee/Skyhawk ??
- Thread starter Hajuu
- Start date
tap on the plate within the big gear the plat will seperate from the main gear. if you are in the hills i could come look
Take the clutch sidecover off and tap arround the flower nut to release the seized clutch plates
Heh thanks for the offer, i'm down cannington way.
I'm sure i'll get there eventually, the whole process has just been a LOT harder than I was lead to believe, and I don't consider tools like a chainbreaker/grinder to be 'basic tools only'. But that's ok, means I ended up spending more on tools than on gear for the bike (was going to grab a new backwheel with kevlar tyres and disc breaks).
I'll try tapping it in 30 minutes and report back.
Thanks for all of you guys time, most helpful community i've ever used
I'm sure i'll get there eventually, the whole process has just been a LOT harder than I was lead to believe, and I don't consider tools like a chainbreaker/grinder to be 'basic tools only'. But that's ok, means I ended up spending more on tools than on gear for the bike (was going to grab a new backwheel with kevlar tyres and disc breaks).
I'll try tapping it in 30 minutes and report back.
Thanks for all of you guys time, most helpful community i've ever used
partial success!
I gave it a decent thwack with a hammer and flathead screwdriver all around the star nut, seemed to loosen it up and now when I use the clutch lever manually, I can get the clutch disengaged, but it looks like maybe the star bracket has rotated a tiny bit and is firmly against the small lock screw now rather than a small gap each side.
as a result the plate seems to have a slight wobble, atleast I hope its an effect of that -- I didn't bang it hard enough to damage it I wouldnt imagine..
How can I tighten this using basic tools heh, not sure I have a flathead wide enough as its quite large.
Also: It seems *very* tight still, like I still have to way over turn my clutch lever to the 3 mark (using a clock as an analogy, with it starting at ~9, moving backwards to 6 normally)
doesn't seem possible that a clutch cable could easilly pull this far or this hard. I also havent located the propper mount on the engine for the clutch cable, but ive had it appropriately pulling the lever from a random frame position
seems kinda flakey way to do it if theres an actual mount though
Progress atleast
I gave it a decent thwack with a hammer and flathead screwdriver all around the star nut, seemed to loosen it up and now when I use the clutch lever manually, I can get the clutch disengaged, but it looks like maybe the star bracket has rotated a tiny bit and is firmly against the small lock screw now rather than a small gap each side.
as a result the plate seems to have a slight wobble, atleast I hope its an effect of that -- I didn't bang it hard enough to damage it I wouldnt imagine..
How can I tighten this using basic tools heh, not sure I have a flathead wide enough as its quite large.
Also: It seems *very* tight still, like I still have to way over turn my clutch lever to the 3 mark (using a clock as an analogy, with it starting at ~9, moving backwards to 6 normally)
doesn't seem possible that a clutch cable could easilly pull this far or this hard. I also havent located the propper mount on the engine for the clutch cable, but ive had it appropriately pulling the lever from a random frame position
seems kinda flakey way to do it if theres an actual mount though
Progress atleast
rotation is ok
the clutch lever should be allmost at 90 degrees to the bike frame slightly towards the rear wheel the clutch mount is next to the clutch lever and is a bolty like silver device coming out the engine block , this has a hole drilled through it ,push the clutch wire through it.. your nearly there
the clutch lever should be allmost at 90 degrees to the bike frame slightly towards the rear wheel the clutch mount is next to the clutch lever and is a bolty like silver device coming out the engine block , this has a hole drilled through it ,push the clutch wire through it.. your nearly there
heheh ok after working it in a bit its working now!
Thanks so much so far, now I just seem to be having a kind of hard time getting the clutch cable to fit properly, just incredibly difficult to get tight enough I think..
I had it before tight enough after about half an hour of struggling, that it would work with the clutch lever lock pin (disengaging the drive) and if I pulled it but it slipped a bit unfortunately due to not being done up twice as tight..
Right now the engine disengages when I press the clutch in so I will just hold it down for now
Is it safe to gas it up now and try and start it up?
Also as another question, it seems to still make noise like turning over when the clutch is engaged, even if its fully engaged, but the wheel turns and the bike gears work. Any ideas or is this normal?
Thanks so much so far, now I just seem to be having a kind of hard time getting the clutch cable to fit properly, just incredibly difficult to get tight enough I think..
I had it before tight enough after about half an hour of struggling, that it would work with the clutch lever lock pin (disengaging the drive) and if I pulled it but it slipped a bit unfortunately due to not being done up twice as tight..
Right now the engine disengages when I press the clutch in so I will just hold it down for now
Is it safe to gas it up now and try and start it up?
Also as another question, it seems to still make noise like turning over when the clutch is engaged, even if its fully engaged, but the wheel turns and the bike gears work. Any ideas or is this normal?
Oh and hopefully one of my last dumbass questions heh..
I am having great amounts of trouble attaching the fuel line from the tank peacock to the carb as the carb fitting seems very big and blunt, if unable to get it on can I melt the end or something? :/
I am having great amounts of trouble attaching the fuel line from the tank peacock to the carb as the carb fitting seems very big and blunt, if unable to get it on can I melt the end or something? :/
Here's a bit of a trick for the cable install-adjustment. Put it in place and eyeball how far up the stop needs to be on the cable then move the cable over to the side and tighten it where you noted it needed to be. Then you can just hold the arm pushing in with your thumb and pull the end of the cable back stretching it till it is out far enough to go into the slot on the end of the arm...much easier than strugglin tryin to hold back the spring and tighten the screw. If you let just a trickle of fuel out the end of the fuel line it will slip on.
Hi guys
Everything seems to be going fine now with the clutch, now i'm having trouble actually fitting the supplied fuel line heh, is there some particular trick I can use? The attachment point on the carb seems very.. blunt and the pipe isnt exactly stretchy
Everything seems to be going fine now with the clutch, now i'm having trouble actually fitting the supplied fuel line heh, is there some particular trick I can use? The attachment point on the carb seems very.. blunt and the pipe isnt exactly stretchy
Go to supercheap ( or a motorbike shop ) and get some fuel line and some hose clips x4 and a inline fuel filter, take the original fuel line with you for referance or the carb and or tank, the originals kept breaking on mine anyway
"the white thing"?
I'd bet what yer referring to is actually the secondary fuel shut-off on the newer style carb, the primer/tickler is that button that looks like a lil cap on the other side. Push and hold for no more that two seconds or so, that'll prime it for cold starts.
As for the air in the line, that shouldn't effect anything I wouldn't worry about it - it outa go away w/time.
Primer is next to the idle set screw;
I'd bet what yer referring to is actually the secondary fuel shut-off on the newer style carb, the primer/tickler is that button that looks like a lil cap on the other side. Push and hold for no more that two seconds or so, that'll prime it for cold starts.
As for the air in the line, that shouldn't effect anything I wouldn't worry about it - it outa go away w/time.
Primer is next to the idle set screw;