going case inducted!!!

[Theon]

So being a nice quiet Sunday morning, and given that a few are taking interest in this thread,
I thought it time to take a little initiative and 'hack' into my 'spare' set of cases.
The opening is 32mm x 22mm and looks about right, a little more to do, but so far just drill, angle grinder and a file.
The reed cage is something I have been working on and will take 2 sets of carbon pocket bike reeds, in a piece of 32 x 32mm stainless square tube.

 

[Theon]

Cheers MBR,
I got a bit more done this arvo!
Would have been nice to do all this on my old mans milling machine, instead I have 'roughed' it in with dremel and file for now, But hope to be going to see the folks next week, so wanted to have a plan of attack.
Finished opening is 32mm x 23mm, minus 2mm on the sides for the tube.
There is still a bit of neatening up to do, but I have a nice tight fit that I havn't really decided how to get a final seal on yet, but shouldn't be to hard.

 

[Ron344]

I really like what your doing here. I have thought about the same thing. I have made a reed valve for one of my motors and it runs real good. I didn't do a third port or piston port just the reed valve. Instead of JB welding the intake port I would think about making it a third port and some how extend it to the bottom of the case and run the top to the height of the transfer ports. Then I would make a piece of aluminum to fit in the rest of the port and bolt to intake flange. with the third port you would get more fuel into the cylinder.
Just my two cents, keep going.

 

[Theon]

This motor will get a 3rd Transfer port. Don't know about using JB either, would be better to plug the intake with alloy like you said.
looks as though there is just enough meat in the cases to take a thread, but only just.
still deciding on how to seal the reed valve to the case, and a little JB there might be the go?
But may be able to do it with a bit of gasket paper.
Still heaps to do and I have lots of other projects, so may take a while.
But feeling good about the design, so will likely do the same to my good cases, but try and do it in the mill.

 

[Davezilla]

Looks like you're on the right track with this so far, yeah things will be much easier if you can use the mill where you can get the tolerances much more accurate than with the dremel. Not impossible with the dremel tho, but it'll be much easier and neater with the mill.
Tp plug the original intake port, if you got the mill you can make the port round then press in a piece of round bar stock, then the area would be easily machinable for cutting in the third port. You could also rough up the inside surface of the intake port and use some JB weld mixed with fiberglass strands to make the plug since that would also be machinable once cured. The fiberglass mixed in with the jb weld will help prevent pieces from breaking off but I'd still avoid any piston ring contact with it. an aluminum plug at the inside of the port opening about .080" or so would make for a better contact area before pouring it the jb weld if you go this route.

To seal the reed box to the case, if you can get the fit close enough, maybe some Yamabond would do the trick if both mating surfaces are machined flat.

Just throwing a few ideas out there, but you're definitely going in the right direction.

 

[Theon]

I was thinking the same Dave, with the Yamabond/Gearbox sealant. the reed case will not need to come out again once the case halves are together, as the reed cage slides in. But would be easier to clean off and redo than JB if/when I need to split the cases again.
Was also thinking the same on the intake plug, would prefer alloy, was considering just making a plug out of 5mm alloy I have that was an interference fit, dremel a slight grove in port at the right depth, and 'bash' it in from the inside and give the edges a peen?
Then maybe a little JB down the old inlet port just to guarantee a good seal and help hold it in.
Not sure what tooling the old man has for his mill, I've not used it yet, infact I havn't used a mill in 20 years, but was not to bad with the 'machines' in my youth.
I ended up with not a bad fit just with dremel and a file, but could get it neater with a mil.
Dino at 'Screaming Roo' has put a lot of time and money into building a better crank for these, I havn't seen one yet, but they are computer balanced and Upgraded, He claims the cranks are good for 10 HP and 10 000 RPM, He wants $320 for a 'stock' motor, Which Is probably worth it as they are hand assembled in OZ with all Quality parts. But I was thinking I got a new $180 Ebay motor kit here and I'll see how this crank holds out first. Otherwise RSE is just down the road and Tony sold me a 'balanced' crank for $60, I havn't tried that motor yet, but it's nearly ready to go, if it's a good crank, I'll likely just get another from him.

 

[Ron344]

You might be able to put two helicoil in the case to hold the reed valve and it would give more strienght in that area or maybe come from the inside of the case with an alin head tappered bolt to hold it. You have to put some tabs on the intake manifold though.
I have alot of projects to and trying to find time to work on them is a full time job, and I'm retired.
I'm currently working on a recumbant trike I made last year I made some changes on over the winter months I should have ready soon.

 

[Theon]

Thank's Ron, I have Helicoils, was considering this, or maybe just 'glueing' studs into the threads I cut, So not to stress the thread by removing and reinstalling bolts. There isn't much clearance to the crank on the inside, so don't want bolts that may go in to far and contact the crank. May even peen the studs a little on the inside to help hold them?
The reed Cage will be getting a mounting flange, that will be held by the said studs, that will then take bolts from carb with an isolation spacer/pulse tube pickup. The photo shows my prototype reed cage beside my RSE 4 petal reed.

 

[Davezilla]

I'm liking the new reed cage as it puts the valve a lot closer to the crank eliminating some of the case compression losses.
If you can use an alloy plug for the intake port, that's the way to go, JB could be used to hold it in more securely, but if you can get a slight interfearance fit (.0001 to .0005" should do) then freeze the plug in a dry ice + alcohol bath while heating up the jug in an oven, it should go in without having to beat on it and stay put once the temperatures equalize. You could add a set screw to the side of the port to hold the plug in or keep it from backing out but it should stay put on it's own.

I might be interested in one of those cranks, but shipping to the states could get pricy, I wonder if RSE exports any of theirs to the U.S. vendors?
One way to make the crank withstand a lot more power is to weld the crank pin in place after it's assembled and trued, which also means to change the lower rod bearing usually means changing the crank assembly, but it does make the crank considerably stronger. This is commonly done on high performance Harleys with the press in type crank pins.

 

[Theon]

The RSE crank is a little different than the other cranks I have, It is narrower, requiring a fair bit of case stuffing, to keep primary compression up, this is because the flywheels are closer together with a recess for the big end, giving even more primary compression, So probably a good choice of crank for a high compression motor. It also has a square drive gear spindle as opposed to tapered and so needs the correct gear or a little machining. Tony exports his reeds to the states, but Imagine postage works out much better on a bulk order of light parts than on a single crank.
Postage from states to OZ is ridiculous and postage inside OZ also can be a little dear, So your probably right. US vendors would then want to double the price...
How much is an RSE reed kit in the states?
I have been considering trying to find someone on here that would be willing to act as a 'postage agent' for me as everything I would want from different vendors would each occur a min. $30 postage fee, and if I was to buy from 4 different vendors, end up paying at least $120 in postage! But watching my spending at the moment anyhow.
But for example a Puch head is $35 then $40 postage?
Can make some inquiries for you regarding the crank if you wish, just P.M. me your address.
I'm still trying to find a decent barrel in OZ for under $60. The last one I ordered cost me $35 delivered, and did not match the photo!, with smaller ports and narrow inlet as well as needing appox 1.5mm shaved to give decent squish and compression.
The barrel I got with my last Ebay Kit was rubbish, with pitting in the chrome and porosity bubbles on the head mating surface.
I'm going to order one from China next and hope for the best, but am probably better off just paying the $60.

 

[mech_engineer]

try with that port area but if the engine loose too much torque try a more little port area 3.21cm^2 for 9k rpm. too much opening can cause a low crank case compresion ability.

 

[Theon]

I need an opening like that to allow the reeds to fully open.

 

[mech_engineer]

the new 21mm dellorto black series, velocity stack and 38mm filter

new skf bearings 6202/c3

used 2011 ktm 65sx expansion chamber

a preview

 

[mech_engineer]

need the lower rod needle bearing specs to find a good quality one... if some one can measure one i need the inner diameter, the outer diameter and length. in mm

 

[mech_engineer]

Ok restrict your air flow at carb 21mm max diameter

 

[Theon]

Pretty sure they're 16 x 20 x 12mm.

 

[Theon]

carb is 21mm with 19mm choke.

 

[Theon]

You might want some better brakes on that bike?
Looking good otherwise.

 

[mech_engineer]

Disc brake kit front and rear ordered

 

[mech_engineer]

Need to change the front hub but have one at home for mtb with the 6 bolt disc base