Front and rear drum brakes- any ideas?

Outrunner said:
I use a dual pull hand brake, and when adjusted properly it works without
any problems. you can adjust it, so the rear grabs first before the front or whatever feels best. I recommend it.
Click to expand...
I recommend the self adjusting Teeter-Totter dual pull from SickBikeParts.com

~$20 and very cool. I use it on all my builds that don't have a coaster brake.
In short the two cables don't hook directly to the lever, they hook to each end of a bar, which hooks to lever from the middle.

dualBrake.jpg


dualbrake.gif


On the illustration one brake is a V, the other a side pull, but the brake lever compensates for the cable pull mismatch right away, and then keeps 50/50 force on each brake at all times.

I don't know if have seen the Grubee GT1 bike, but it comes with dual V-brakes and a drum brake.

GT1DoneLeft640.jpg


gt1HubLeft1.jpg


gt1hubLeft2.jpg


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(continued from above)

Not only was the drum virtually useless, it was hooked along with the back V-brake to one those lame dual pull levers.

gt1brakeLever.jpg


I pulled that off and put a Teeter-Totter lever on the right hooked to both V-brakes, and then just adjusted up the drum best I could and put it on the clutch side lever as an emergency brake.

GT1HandleRight.jpg


The difference was staggering.

Other than having to mess with that, for a direct drive bike with good shocks, 3 brakes and hub mounted sprocket on it, it turned out to be a beautiful build.

Anyway, the point was there are two kinds of dual pull levers.
 
timboellner said:
Hey KC
You take some nice pictures!!
I agree the sbp dual brake lever is the bomb
Click to expand...
Thanks Tim, I try.
They say a good picture is worth a thousand words, a bunch in detail help more, and when you can animate a sequence even more I think.

I have been doing that for soo long it is a whole lot easier than building a MB.
The best part is, other than a $200 camera set at 1600x1200 per pic, the tools to do it are free.
Well, that and I have my own Internet Server I put whatever I want on and know how to properly display them in a forum.

Regardless I learned a bunch here and figure I should give back the best way I know how, and for me that means detailed pics.
 
reb1 said:
The secret ingredient in salmon pads is rust. Yes iron oxide mixed in the compound allows them to increase the drag on the rim.
I have Paul V brakes with travel agents and boosters on my mountain bike. I need to adjust these on a regular basis. I have had to replace travel agents before because of premature failure. If you have a failure on any brake it is going to be from worn parts or an accident. The Magura does not have the worn part problems that the cable brakes do. They do not need to be adjusted for toe because they do not squeal like a stuck pig. I believe the problems people give for not using such a good brake are from not understanding how they work. There are videos on there site that explain how to set them up. Fluid compresses less than cables stretch. The HS33s come with the brake boosters. You need them to have proper modulation. I am looking at the lightfoot smoothie. they will put the Subaru 35cc on it. They have setup the gear box so it hooks into the drive train of the bicycle. The only type of disk brake that interests me is a tandem rated hydraulic.
Click to expand...


I know how to adjust them pads they are easy as pie! Hydraulics etc pound for pound? My disks are flawless. Not my first rodeo. As a matter of rim brakes just have not used the Kewl Stop pads yet.

So I have to have boosters and dramatically increased pressure [Leverage] to put a simple set of kewl's to work(?)
 
I'll vouch for the Kool Stop pads, as well. I've been using them since the 90's on all my rimbrake bikes. Second to none, IMHO.
 
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