Sounds like an awesome mount. Do you have plans on selling them once you get the technique down? There was another member making similar mounts but he stopped doing it.
Frame Repairs on My First Build...
- Thread starter Davezilla
- Start date
If I can get a good 3d model made that would only need the hole diameter and shape to be changed I could probably do them on an as needed basis... trying to do a production run on them would be disappointing to most because there are so many different frame tube sizes, shapes, and angles. My cnc does have a 4th axis which would make setting the angle to match the frame real easy as well as accurate but to make one and send it out, the buyer would need to send me the tube diameter, crass section shape, and the angle the bottom tube is in relation to the seat post tube and if they send a measurement 1 degree off it wouldn't fit since this is a very rigid mounting method.
I was thinking about doing some similar to those 3 piece billet mounts but with the owner's bottom tube diameter and cross section shape... that would be more doable since there's no risk in getting the frame angle wrong.
I got a few other ideas that can be done on the cnc but I just need time to make the 3d models, another thing I need to do is make a set of billet brackets to connect the pipe to the frame at the stinger section. The other side will be held to the engine by springs so the risk of cracking the pipe would be low, especially if I can come up with a way to mount the pipe semi rigid, and I got an idea how to do just that...
I was thinking about doing some similar to those 3 piece billet mounts but with the owner's bottom tube diameter and cross section shape... that would be more doable since there's no risk in getting the frame angle wrong.
I got a few other ideas that can be done on the cnc but I just need time to make the 3d models, another thing I need to do is make a set of billet brackets to connect the pipe to the frame at the stinger section. The other side will be held to the engine by springs so the risk of cracking the pipe would be low, especially if I can come up with a way to mount the pipe semi rigid, and I got an idea how to do just that...
Just a thought, do you think it would be possible to do a series of angled shims? I was thinking maybe for the rear mount also? A lot of the new motors have wide enough stud spacing that just a set of angled shims and long enough studs would allow direct mounting.
Oh and I have no idea if you are interested but they are rare so I wanted to tell you. The local bike Co Op has a pretty mint condition ProFlex with the carbon Girvin girder fork on it for $300. I would buy it in a second just to have the fork but I have ever cents tied up in getting my little business off the ground.
There would be a possibility to do something like that... the shims would need to have slotted holes to compensate for the stud angles being different and the cap would need a set of self centering washers to avoid binding or bending of the studs while torquing... combine that condition with vibration would be a recipe for broken mount studs, but if we were to make the shim with slotted holes and then use a cap with some type of self centering like self centering washers or a larger ball and socket setup to keep the studs straight it would be possible to correct just about any angle
That's a really tempting deal... does the bike have the rear suspension behind the seat post or is it one of the ones with the rear shock in the way of installing an engine? Of course, a carbon fiber Girvin Cross Link is easily worth the $300 just by its self...
There are certain mountain bike brake shoes that can be mounted at any angle thru a series of convex and cupped washers. It would be too much to machine all those pieces in the correct size for motor mounts but maybe there is an off the shelf hardware solution and only the shims would need to be made. You probably know the ones I am talking about but I will post a pic tomorrow, I have some at the shop.
I'm sure there is... most likely some place like Granger would have something like that... it could be done using some rocker arm fulcrums then just need to machine out the socket in the aluminum, but those are about twice the size they need to be for this purpose
I was so into looking at the fork I am not positive about the rear suspension set up. I will try to get by there tomorrow and get details and maybe a pic.
If it's one of the older models they have a swing arm and single shock very similar to the green Specialized I'm building in this thread... I think the ProFlex bike's quality may be a slight bit better than Specialized, but both brands are really well built, the other one with the rear suspension behind the seat post tube, the GT LTS is another great frame I would like to get my hands on and they're also a steal at anything below $300 for a complete working bike.
I just stopped at the Co Op and they sold the mint condition Pro Flex. But as I was asking at the counter about it the guy in line that they just helped heard me and said he had one. Apparently he has a little bike shop out of his house. Anyway he said it needed a complete rebuild but he would sell it as is for $100. I really want one of those forks one day but I can't buy it right now for myself so if you are interested when he sends me a pic later I can forward it to you.
Man if that one for $100 has the girvin front end that would be a steal, even if the fork needed to be rebuilt... the fork I got I paid about 125 for and rebuilt it here using a modified go kart shock and the Noleen spring they sell on ebay to convert the old polymer type to spring type, the spring was just the right size for the shock I got so it has a real oil damped shock with just the right spring rate and it handles like a dream... even at 40+ mph the bike is rock solid stable, no vibration or front end shake, just nice easy and straight tracking at any speed... I would feel safe taking my hands off the bars at 40mph with this setup it's that stable.
These forks also have eccentric cam's on the top bolts so you can adjust the rake angle about 1" to fine tune it even more.
These forks also have eccentric cam's on the top bolts so you can adjust the rake angle about 1" to fine tune it even more.
It does have the Girvin fork. I really want to pick it up just to have for my next personal bike.
I would pick it up just for the front end if it was available locally, but to ship a whole bike can get a little pricy. The rear suspension on these are also fairly easy to adapt to most bikes without rear suspension by cutting out the rear triangle and welding in a swing arm bracket and a shock mount.
That frame style would be hard to motorize without doing a lot of cutting and welding etc, but you could sell the frame by it's self on ebay to recover about half the purchase money.
That frame style would be hard to motorize without doing a lot of cutting and welding etc, but you could sell the frame by it's self on ebay to recover about half the purchase money.