Fix, fix, fix!

Maybe this will help.

Motorized Bicycle Carburetor install and rebuild

Pictures from taking the carb off the bike and taking it apart to puting it back together and some info. on how and what it all does well sort of and ways to change the min jet for those who want to and areas that can bite you by plugging off and sort of how to fix them. I hope this will sort...
motorbicycling.com motorbicycling.com
 
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Or there's this...
 

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You're better off moving the engine so the carb is level but if you can't the float tab can be bent... You can cut the intake in 2 and add a rubber hose to move it around... Post some pictures so we can see what were looking at? If it's extreme several things together might help...
 
The correct way to mount the engine is to seat the rear mount on the seat post and build or space the front mount to fit the frame opening. Once the engine is mounted correctly you have to work with what you have. Each bike frame will be slightly different, years ago I built 4 bikes on the same frame from WM, all had different seat post angles.
 
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If fuel is running out of the air filter adjust the float angle to close sooner, make sure there’s nothing holding the needle open before adjusting the float angle.
 
As Mossy said adding a piece of hose to level the carb is another option, I did this to a neighbors mountain bike because it didn’t have enough room for the carb. A piece of pipe that fits into the carb and a piece of hose that fits snug over the pipe and intake. You could try it to see if it helps.
 
On that bike leveling the carb gained about 5 mph, a longer intake helps low end torque also.
 
Mossy the seat tube angle determines the location of the front mount, I like my engine as low as possible for a low center of gravity.
 
I generally machine about half of the thickness off the rear shim to get the engine lower, use an angle grinder set the angle for the front tube.
Greg58 said:
Mossy the seat tube angle determines the location of the front mount, I like my engine as low as possible for a low center of gravity.
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A little drum sander on a drill would be perfect for the inside to match the angle on the rear to level the carb and slide the front up lowering the rear... The 6mm case fit nice and low but the 8mm is slightly larger... I welded the kit strap on the seat tube because it kept moving and put nuts on both sides... 3/16 would have been better with a round die in a press... I have another 30 more ways to level up the carb...
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