figured id join this forum to get as much help and info as possible. just bought a umoto 2 stroke 48cc motor kit and 26" mountain bike. read through instructions, watched the videos now i am aquiring the additional tools ill need. One of my first questions is, if im supposed to take off the handle bars to attatch clutch and throttle, how am i supposed to shift the bike when clutch isnt engaged? the bike that came with my kit has a twist shift handle bar. am i going to have to sacrifice ability to shift and keep in one gear when peddaling?
First timer Fresh Blood
- Thread starter RhodeIslandRebel
- Start date
Welcome to the forum. You've found the right place to get you on the road with the least amount of trouble.
I'm not sure what you mean by "twist shift handlebar". I'm going to assume it is a twist shifter which is common. It is a separate part from the hand grip even though it might look like one piece. Usually there is a set screw that you can loosen to move the shifter on the bars. All you'll need to remove is the factory hand grip to install the throttle.
If your handlebars/shifter are in fact a one piece unit, which I've never seen, you might need to replace them with something more standard.
If you could post a photo of your current handlebar setup we could be more specific with advice.
Tom
I'm not sure what you mean by "twist shift handlebar". I'm going to assume it is a twist shifter which is common. It is a separate part from the hand grip even though it might look like one piece. Usually there is a set screw that you can loosen to move the shifter on the bars. All you'll need to remove is the factory hand grip to install the throttle.
If your handlebars/shifter are in fact a one piece unit, which I've never seen, you might need to replace them with something more standard.
If you could post a photo of your current handlebar setup we could be more specific with advice.
Tom
Not sure if I understand your question. But I'll try to answer it.
If you are wondering how to shift your bike you should check out installing a jack shaft. It allows for shifting the gears while riding. No need to engage the clutch when shifting as I understand it.
Lots of motorized bikes have only one gear. Multiple gears are not necessary, but I can understand why a person would want them. If that doesn't answer your question I'm sorry.
If you are wondering how to shift your bike you should check out installing a jack shaft. It allows for shifting the gears while riding. No need to engage the clutch when shifting as I understand it.
Lots of motorized bikes have only one gear. Multiple gears are not necessary, but I can understand why a person would want them. If that doesn't answer your question I'm sorry.
Welcome Rebel!
Multi speed bike with Twist shifters. Keeping in mind - the only time I pedal is to start the bike and when I need to pull away from a green light. I may also pedal on a comb. walk/bike path so as not to pss anyone off walking pets. I go from home to work and and back home again. I pleasure ride on paved surfaces. What I do may not be what you do and that's o.k. We all ride for many reasons. I like simplicity. I don't use front largest and smallest chain rings. Mid ring lines up the best. Twist shifters crowd the handle bars. I remove the front derailier and left twist shifter allowing space for a rear view mirror.
I replace the rear derailier twist shifter from the bars and use a thumb shifter mounted on the handlebar stem to work the rear derailier only. You end up with fewer gears less crowded bars but still a functioning multi speed bike.
Multi speed bike with Twist shifters. Keeping in mind - the only time I pedal is to start the bike and when I need to pull away from a green light. I may also pedal on a comb. walk/bike path so as not to pss anyone off walking pets. I go from home to work and and back home again. I pleasure ride on paved surfaces. What I do may not be what you do and that's o.k. We all ride for many reasons. I like simplicity. I don't use front largest and smallest chain rings. Mid ring lines up the best. Twist shifters crowd the handle bars. I remove the front derailier and left twist shifter allowing space for a rear view mirror.
I replace the rear derailier twist shifter from the bars and use a thumb shifter mounted on the handlebar stem to work the rear derailier only. You end up with fewer gears less crowded bars but still a functioning multi speed bike.
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everything was going good, got up to installing the throttle and getting to the spark plug. wanted to turn the motor to see if the spark plug would spark and the chain fell off. come to find out the rear sprocket is not aligned right, it is wobbly when spinning . took the rear sprocket off and re fashioned it. banged it lightly maybe not enough didnt want to damage it...still crooked. how to straighten the sprocket and get it evenly aligned? suggestions and tips?
Hey RI Rebel, I posted a ride up in Ma the middle of may, check out the info under the rides forum..
Rebel,
Installing the rear sprocket is usually one of the biggest trouble areas for a first time builder. The so called, 'rag joint' assembly can give you fits.
We're assuming you have rims with 36 spokes. This is a requirement for proper installation. I typed in, 'rear sprocket install' into our 'Search' and got this for you > https://cse.google.com/cse?cx=partn...b=0&gsc.q=installing rear sprocket&gsc.page=1
Lots to read on the subject. Maybe it will offer some help.
Good luck.
Tom
Installing the rear sprocket is usually one of the biggest trouble areas for a first time builder. The so called, 'rag joint' assembly can give you fits.
We're assuming you have rims with 36 spokes. This is a requirement for proper installation. I typed in, 'rear sprocket install' into our 'Search' and got this for you > https://cse.google.com/cse?cx=partn...b=0&gsc.q=installing rear sprocket&gsc.page=1
Lots to read on the subject. Maybe it will offer some help.
Good luck.
Tom
i had a friend whos a little more mechanical than me come over and look at it. according to him the sprocket is backwards and needs to be on the other way with the concave part facing in. from all the videos ive watched the concave part of the sprocket is facing out with the flanged ends of the gears facing out but all these seem to be cruiser bike frames. alot of searches for mountain bike frames seem to have the concave side facing in. i see the reason would be to keep the chain from hitting the tires but the way i had it the chain was hitting the frame and coming undone. we took off the sprocket and tested if the chain would hit the tire with the concave side facing in and it looked good. hes gonna take the wheel and sprocket with him and get it on straight . all my bolts and nuts are ****ed from taking it off and on so many times.
It's all good. First time exp. for all of us. Dish could go either way completely depends on frame design. Your luck I hope is NOT like mine. If I have a 50/50 chance -- I end up doing it over every time. Curious if any others have tried these. I use clamp type sprocket adapters on all my bikes. But! This is a recent discovery I used first on the banana bike. I like it. 100mi It works just fine and easier to install. Keep us posted.
http://www.amazon.com/80cc-MOTORIZE...&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00
http://www.amazon.com/80cc-MOTORIZE...&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00
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Hey Rebel, when you if you decide to upgrade you will look at these. (not endorsing vendor, example pic only.)http://www.gasbike.net/collections/...oducts/44-tooth-cnc-sprocket-adapter-assembly
Be sure to measure hub diam. with a caliper. You will need to know for proper sizing otherwise this could happen.
http://motorbicycling.com/album.php?albumid=1792&pictureid=10944
Be sure to measure hub diam. with a caliper. You will need to know for proper sizing otherwise this could happen.
http://motorbicycling.com/album.php?albumid=1792&pictureid=10944
getting there. have most of the pieces assembled. awaiting my cousin to return with the rear wheel and sprocket hopefully perfectly aligned and straight. hopefully ill just be able to mount the wheel and add fuel and start her up
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after a week of nothing im going to retrieve my rear wheel and sprocket off my loser cousin, buy all new bolts and washers and go to the beginning with this. im going to try flipping the sprocket around and hopefully adjust it alot better on the bike. hopefully that will work. trying to avoid buying any additional parts and making this work with what ive got before i buy the rear hub sprocket upgrade....what a job
No doubt you can do it. Sometimes it's best to step away and think. Go ahead and flip your sprocket, take your time and be meticulous. You Will get it, many before you have. Try for perfect-accept the fact it will not be and you will be surprised how well you did. New Bolts a plus. Get nylock nuts and flatty washers for under the nuts. If you're buying bolts get Button head allens. They keep a low profile on the outboard surface of your sprocket. Save $$$ ? Buy 1/4 20s american standard and not metrics. I did these on my banana bike. You will have to drill out the 10mm holes which are slightly smaller than the quarter inch but very easy drilling with 1/4 in bit. Bolt head on sprocket face side out, nuts w/washers between the spokes. Don't be upset at cous.He got good intentions but it is your bike. Claim it and conquer.
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got the rear wheel and sprocket back, attatched it right this time, had no problem keeping the chain on this time. had to tighten my clutch for it to actually give me motion. ran smooth pedaling. connected everything else. filled up the tank doing a 16/1 ratio. started her up fine. had to adjust the choke a bit. feel like once i disengage the clutch and the motor starts taking over that its going pretty fast without even me giving it any throttle is that normal? thought that was kinda strange. also it seems when i engage the clutch and lock it , it idles pretty high. any tips?
Glad to hear you are pressing onward. 16/1 is really rich even @ break-in. I assume you have a stock kit carb. The NT. Check around the intake at the motor end for gasket leaks and especially where the carb slips on. You do NOT want air leaks. If the idle screw does not have any effect - you got an air leak notoriously between carb and where it slips onto the intake. To test for an air leak at both mentioned locations, WD 40 with the red straw sprayed around that intake should not make a dif in the way it runs. If the motor changes tone or idles up further you got a leak. If no air leaks, tweak the idle screw counter c.w. to idle down.
I usually go to the hardware store with my carb in hand and head to the pluming section to look at O rings. Put it in the carb outlet and I usually put a little white grease on the o ring when I put it in. It slips together well just keep pressure on the carb when you tighten it. Also you should replace the bolt to tighten the carb on the manifold with a Allen bolt and nut while your there.
I also use RTV on the gasket around the intake and it has seem to hold up pretty well. I just rebuilt my engine and the RTV from my first piston was still there holding up great.
This has solved all my problems with air leaks.
I usually go to the hardware store with my carb in hand and head to the pluming section to look at O rings.
This is a critical component not included with all Kit NTs. This is what they are and where they go. If you don't have one you need one. I have never needed the RV sealant but many others do use it for an added measure of no air leak insurance.
Thanks Cylon for pointing this out. Thanks Duane @ That's Dax for the pic.
This is a critical component not included with all Kit NTs. This is what they are and where they go. If you don't have one you need one. I have never needed the RV sealant but many others do use it for an added measure of no air leak insurance.
Thanks Cylon for pointing this out. Thanks Duane @ That's Dax for the pic.
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