First build - the journey begins

[Rudz]

Made a lot of progress today. Ran all the cables, brakes, clutch, throttle and derailleur. All are set except the derailleur, I still have to tune it.

Mounted the tank, made bridges out of epoxy and it worked well. Mounted the carburetor and glass Briggs fuel filter.

Started sticker bombing, mainly to cover all the Dawes logos.

I used the tensioner mount from the stock parts kit because the one that came with my spring tensioner I fitting around the chain stays. Problem was that it kept sliding downhill, so I mixed up some epoxy and filled the slot., we'll see if it holds.

I have to mount the chain and bend the tensioner to fit the chain line.

Oh, and I need gas.



Don't mind all the electrical tape, I'm getting some zip ties to clean it up.

 

[Rudz]

 

[Rudz]

I flipped the wheel on the tensioner, now it lines up better, I added a 203mm rotor on the rear for sprocket clearance, I think I can make it work, but it's rubbing the frame, just enough. I think I can file it down just a hair and be fine.

I stripped two of the engine sprocket screws, had to drill one of them out. I'm ordering new hardware. I played around with it and realized the exhuast could hit the crank just right, so I widened the exhuast holes and mounted it flush to the frame, no more rubbing.

I zip tied all the lines, Also flipped the drive sprocket so the convex side was out, this gave me more space up top where the teeth are and where I need to mount the brake caliper. I'm waiting on new bolts so I can try to mount the brake again.

Almost there. Almost.

I work for the next four days so I won't work on the bike much until this weekend

 

[2door]

Have you given any thought to doing away with the tensioner altogether?

Many of us aren't impressed with spring tensioners. They allow slack when you least need it. The best option would be to do away with the tensioner and adjust chain tension by moving the rear wheel aft or shimming the engine forward.

You don't want the clutch or throttle cables tied down tight. They need long flowing curves to function properly. Give them some slack.

Your fuel line will need to be changed. Liquids don't flow uphill. You have a natural trap in your fuel line. It needs to run downhill through its full length from the tank outlet to the carburetor inlet.

Not trying to be a wet blanket but just don't want you dissapointed when things don't work as you expect them to. We want you to enjoy your bike, not have it be a source of problems for you.

Tom

 

[Rudz]

I have thought about losing the tensioner. I worked on fixing the fuel lines today, it's common sense that it wasn't going to work. I am working on where I want the fuel filter to fit, my giant tank doesn't leave me much room.

 

[miked826]

I have thought about losing the tensioner. I worked on fixing the fuel lines today, it's common sense that it wasn't going to work. I am working on where I want the fuel filter to fit, my giant tank doesn't leave me much room.

Lose that tensioner altogether. You'll be very happy you did. You already got tension on the pedal side chain. Put these on your axle, yank the rear wheel back, until everything is slack free, and lock everything down. It worked wonders for me.

 

[BarelyAWake]

I don't think that bike has horizontal dropouts...

 

[miked826]

I don't think that bike has horizontal dropouts...

Your guess is as good as mine. I can't tell by those pics either.

 

[BarelyAWake]

Click the link, click the magnify at the bottom right of the pic & then again when it fullscreens - the 'bucket is a lil weird about that is all (saves bandwidth): http://s286.photobucket.com/user/RUdzeyenrkncpt/media/20140714_164738.jpg.html

...defo not horizontals, pretty normal for most mountain bikes these days

 

[BarelyAWake]

If a tensioner/idler must be used, to guide the chain (stay chafe) or just to facilitate easy maintenance (not a fan of shimming motor, I ride too much for that) I do think this style is one of the best, safest options as it spans both the upper & lower stays, requiring just the one easy access bolt to adjust;



Here's the retailer's link for the above pic: http://custommotoredbicycles.com/pa..._chain_tensionerswhite_idler_wheel_415_chains ...but be warned - I dunno 'em so I can't reco 'em & I'd make my own anyway lol

 

[miked826]

Yep that is the most rugged and most maintenance free tensioner designs I've seen as well. You can make adjustments on it and not destroy your bikes paint job in the process. Like I did on my bike before I tossed mine in the garbage. LOL

 

[miked826]

The problem with using anything other than this tensioner is keeping that tensioner perfectly inline with the chain without crushing your chainstay tube by over tightening it, so it stays put, because mine never would. Now I'm gonna have flashback nightmares about it tonight. LOL

 

[2door]

Spanning the seat and chain stay is by far the best method to attach a tensioner, if you must use one. The problem I see with the bracket shown above is getting the tensioner wheel aligned with the chain path. It will take some tweaking to achieve that and wheel to chain alignment is important.

A welded bracket is superior to a clamp on but that requires a welder or to pay someone to do the job.

I'd try to run without a tensioner if at all possible. It is the lesser of all evils. And as Barely said, I'm not a fan of engine shimming for several reasons.

Tom

 

[Rudz]

I don't have horizontal dropouts, I seen that tensioner on Lynne page. I'm going back into the build after I finish work this week.

I have to wait on a rear mounting block anyway because I never got one in my kit. Plus I'm buying new hardware. When I mount the motor permanently I'm going to try and line the chain up without a tensioner.

What are the problems with shimming a motor?

 

[2door]

Shimming: The ideal is to have the engine mount saddles exactly fit the frame tubing. If you shim an engine forward to tighten the chain you are essentially slanting the front mount away from the tube thereby creating a void between the engine and the frame. Instead of sitting flush against the frame the front mount will be angled. Not the best way to mount.

Also everytime you want to tighten the chain you'll be faced with unbolting the rear mount, loosening the front one and prying the engine forward to slip in more shim.

If you use the kit supplied #415 chain you're going to be adjusting chain tension frequently until the chain wears and stretches to its max length. Shimming every time is lots of dirty, greasy work you might want to avoid.

Not saying that shims won't work. Many builders rely on that method. It just isn't something some of us do.

Tom

 

[Rudz]

Shimming: The ideal is to have the engine mount saddles exactly fit the frame tubing. If you shim an engine forward to tighten the chain you are essentially slanting the front mount away from the tube thereby creating a void between the engine and the frame. Instead of sitting flush against the frame the front mount will be angled. Not the best way to mount.

Also everytime you want to tighten the chain you'll be faced with unbolting the rear mount, loosening the front one and prying the engine forward to slip in more shim.

If you use the kit supplied #415 chain you're going to be adjusting chain tension frequently until the chain wears and stretches to its max length. Shimming every time is lots of dirty, greasy work you might want to avoid.

Not saying that shims won't work. Many builders rely on that method. It just isn't something some of us do.

Tom

I've been playing with my bikes long enough, I don't get greasy. I wear disposable gloves I get from work. Lmfao.

I think I'll take the looking cool with no tensioner route over constantly worrying about it crushing my chainstay and destroying my spokes.


I really routed the fuel line.







And I got a new shirt

 

[2door]

There ya go, Rudz. That's looking fine, sir. I think you're on your way to some fun.
Keep us posted on your first ride.

Tom

 

[Rudz]

My hands are tied for now. I'm waiting on a rear mounting block and new stainless hardware. I also ordered a kmc 415 half link, so I can fine tune the chain tension without a tensioner.

The rear disk set up isn't going to work, so I'm going to put that 203 mm rotor up front and rig a v brake on the back. Not having brake bosses, I'm going to epoxy and clamp on a brake booster and mount a v brake to that with some salmon pads. Not much of a choice if I want two brakes.

I seen clamp on brake bosses but idk where the heck they are now.

The tophat hat does make a great mounting for the drive sprocket though that's for sure, don't have to worry about centering or damage to the spokes.


I'm going to break it in at 16-1 that's right?

 

[2door]

There is a lot of evidence here from experienced builders that says that 16:1 is too much oil. Fouled spark plugs, clogged exhaust and generally poor engine performance can result from that high of an oil ratio. We recommend no more than a 24:1 mix for break in.
There are even those who break in at 32:1 and stay there after break in. There are also weird people, like me, who start at 100:1, with an oil formulated for that ratio.

You'll need to read some on that subject and decide for yourself.

As for your rear disc brake. There is a current thread that covers a new rotor size, 255mm that might provide you with enough caliper to chain clearance for you to retain the disc brake. I'm not comfortable with your epoxy theory to mount a rear 'V' brake. There is a lot of force applied to the mounts when the brakes are applied. They need to be mounted solidly.


EDIT: LOL never mind on that 255mm thread. It was your thread

Tom

 

[Rudz]

I have seen brake boosters clamped to seatstays forever, I'm adding epoxy to make it stronger. It will be a secondary brake.

Identiti makes clamp on fork bosses but I'm not pay $40 just to see if they fit my seatstays.

I couldn't fit the 203 mm broke rotors, didn't feel comfortable grinding down my aluminum frame. All I need is it to snap a chainstay while I'm doing 20-30mph