I had to look at the pictures to see what holes you were talking about. Good grief, no! That's the brass filigree wings I bought. The brass is thin and is stamped out by a machine. Back when Tiffany lamps were the rage what they called the art deco style was real big... this would be in the 1920's and 1930's. For some reason dragonflies were a popular thing to incorporate into the design of a lamp. Stained glass is cut out to the same shape as the wing, the edges are wrapped in copper foil and then it is soldered to the brass filigree wing... then it got soldered in to the rest of the lamp and the light shining through lit up the dragonfly. Pretty cool. Also pretty fussy work. When I had a stained glass shop many years ago I made windows, usually big windows using lead cames (an H shaped strip of lead which held the edge of the glass in each channel & then soldered together where cames joined up. Tedious work. If this were the middle ages I would have been called a "glass monger", today stained glass workers are known as "stained glass artisans". It's a specialized trade, but one I got pretty good at. I stopped working with lead after I had nerve damage from lightning... lead is bad for the nervous system and you handle it a lot making big windows, then breathe in the fumes of flux and lead/tin solder in joining it all up. I figured I'd better keep my distance from it if I didn't want this nerve damage to get worse. With this copper jewel light I'm using silver solder, so no worry. By the way, an interesting side note most people don't know is that technically glass is a liquid and not a solid. I guess it is in between really. When you go to your church next time look at the leaded windows and you'll see that the glass is thinner at the top of a piece than it is at the bottom... that's because it is ever so slowly being pulled down by gravity. It just flows very very slowly. Kinda cool thing to think about.WOW! did you cut all them hole in the copper with the Dremel?
The only truble I see with the shims is that it might turn in them. If so maybe solder them to the post.
Like all the rest its going to be a nice build...Curt
What I see in the pictures is they are welded on top and bottom just cut the welds with a saw and it should fall. A lot of times you can cut one weld and break the other but it could tear the tube if it is to thin. Then grind the rest.REMOVAL OF CHAIN GUARD MOUNTS
The Worksman Newsboy has tabs welded to the frame for mounting the pedal chain guard. My understanding is that these tabs interfere with placing the engine as low as possible in the frame. So they have to go. How best to do this? I have available to me a hacksaw, dremel moto tool with cutoff wheels, grnders which fit into the drill chuck, files. I'm thinking hacksaw followed by grinder attached to drill. Yes?
A secondary question is how small do I need to go with the pedal crank (not the arms, but the sprocket. I can see that the stock one is too big, so how small do I need to go? Anyone know? Getting closer...
SB
Thanks, Bill. That's good to hear.SB,,,
I have used copper pipe split in 2 for shims on OCC bikes before and see no prob with your using them
(occ seatposts are 31.8 and very hard to get a 'normal' seatpost for, so I shimmed smaller posts to fit, and have never had a post move since doing this )
Thanks, Curtis. I think so, too.What I see in the pictures is they are welded on top and bottom just cut the welds with a saw and it should fall. A lot of times you can cut one weld and break the other but it could tear the tube if it is to thin. Then grind the rest.
Thats the one I will be cloneing. Belt drive and all.Blackhog01,
I was just in the board tracker & vintage bike section and saw your Shaw thread with the great pictures. I'm taking the liberty of posting the third of your photos below and want to thank you for sharing it with us. I saw something very interesting in that bike which was different than the others pictured. Notice the drop stand setup. Usually on these old timers the dropout has been made so that the mount and stop for the drop stand is made integral to the drop out. Not on this one. This is a separate piece which looks to me like it could be copied so that it would work on any older cruiser... say a 50 Panther or something newer you want to look old like a Worksman newsboy. A rear drop stand is also useful if you want to add an expansion chamber exhaust under the pedal crank where it usually interferes with the kickstand.
Great find it will look realy Cool on it. They wont let us snoop at the dump anymore. Stupid buracrats. I do anyway when I bring a load out,but that is only a couple times a year. I should go once a week and hall my own garbage. I tried that once and it gets to stinky oh wellSIDECAR SPEEDOMETER
I found a little treasure at the dump the other day. I saw the gauge, the zero to sixty and the cool needle and pictured it on the canoe sidecar. No, it isn't a speed ometer, but a heat ometer. Close enough for government work, as they say (the government workers say that, I guess). I'm picturing this in a little dashboard at the front of the canoe/sidecar which I also picture having a little windscreen made of Plexiglas. I'll paint the back of the gauge and while the cover is off will try making a little half circle out of something, maybe the chromey looking foil duct tape... what on the reservation is called Indian chrome, good for covering rust holes and shiny, too. Once the tell tale heat part is covered up I can affix a water decal of the Indian motorcycle logo. I had some(got burned up, but I think I can get more) I got from a cast iron toy restoration guy, made for old cast iron Indian motorcycle toys. Like the big ones, just little. So, a little decal... fit right in there... a genuine made in America Indian speedometer (quite rare) that does not work of course, but who cares? Can't go sixty anyway. How cool is this, eh?
Silverbear
Curtis,SB I started last fall. I have a older Raleigh it has the longer stearing tube. I changed the front fork and had lengthen the top tube to fit. I spliced it in the midel.The fork that was wasto narrow for the 26" wheels I put on they came off a three speed,nice crome rims.Now I have to cut and shorten the rear the brakes are to high for the wheel. I don't know what engine to use I was thinking a Honda but I might get a two stroke just because of the open fin more like the shaw.
What size wheel do most run will 1:95 be wide enough to hold up I am 220lbs?
I was looking at jeweler's torches and some of those are very expensive. Last year I had what was called a "pencil torch" head from Bernzomatic using regular propane tanks and it was pretty good at controlling the flame. Looked just like a regular torch head but was supposed to produce a more controlled pencil flame. It came through the truck fire looking OK, but no longer works. I understand you can use Mapp gas with a regular Bernzomatic sold for propane torches, which I bought one of thinking it would help when I'm trying to go for high heat to bend something. As you say, use what you've got. I have a couple regular old torch heads for general shop use. Good enough for now.i just use the yellow bernzomatic mapp gas torch from ACE. after some experimenting, i just keep the flame low and go to town.
honestly, i probably have the most primitive method of soldering a tank, but it's all about making do with what you got.
i have a really nice, high dollar pencil torch with a bunch of different attachments, and it didn't work at all. the butane just wouldn't heat it up.
copper is so easy to work with. i had absolutely no experience besides soldering wires when i built my first tank, and it just gets easier everytime. with all the practice you've had soldering juice cans, you could probably put me to shame...