Felt Fat Tire Ale build 99cc predator

carcrafter22 said:
I'm having trouble finding small thin wall elbows to make an intake out of steel so it's staying copper for now. I fired it up finally and it's pouring fuel out of the air filter and a small air bleed on the side. I assume the float needs to be adjusted to stop this. I'll try and get that remedied soon. I did put the original carb on it for a test run today and it was pretty exciting. The rear belt slipped a bit so I made a tensioner to fix it. I still need to come up with a headlight a wide crank set and a few other things before its finished but its getting close.
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These guys http://www.woolfaircraft.com/index.html should be able to help you out on getting the needed elbow. I ordered the elbow I used to make my intake from them. I had to do some cutting to get it to the size I needed, but they provided a quality bent steel elbow.
 
dracothered, Thanks for the link. I know a semi local guy that has a mandrel bender (all he does is mandrel bending, mostly small production stuff) and I'm going to see if he can bend me one up out of aluminum and TIG weld some mounting flanges. If he can't bend that small of stuff or that tight of bends I'll most likely use the link you provided.

For now I'm still working on getting the bike finished up. I took it for another run down the street today and the tensioner works great, really helps the belt. I got the stormy archer drum laced into the front wheel, I didn't realize how stiff the brake lever would be compared to the hydraulic discs on my Giant mountain bike.

From what very little I've ran the bike so far I can tell the abraham fork suspension really helps things out a ton, very happy I went with them after reading about them on this board.

I'll try and get some more overall pics up tomorrow and hopefully a video by this weekend if anyone is interested.
 
I believe my fuel pump is over powering the carb and causing it to spit fuel out. The local kart shop I bought the carb from says they use the same fuel pump I already have to fuel 300 and 400cc engines and even then they run return lines so it doesn't over fuel the carb. I going to install a return line on it tomorrow and see if that helps. I was at the local kart shop this afternoon with the bike trying to figure out the high idle issue and probably had 20-25 people gathered around looking and asking questions about the bike, seemed to get a very positive review. The kart guys were great. Gave me a new throttle cable turned a couple small parts on the lathe for me and modded my throttle lever so the throttle is perfect now. The new cable fixed my high idle ( the ferrul inside the slide carb was catching, the new one fixed that issue). I took it for a cruise down the street before dark and it was a pretty nice ride, I was surprised. The rear belt is slipping (need to adjust the tensioner) and it was spitting fuel on my right leg (need a fuel return line due to too much pump flow) otherwise it was nice. The custom clutch roller bearing clutch from max torque works wonderfully and engages at just the right rpm. With the 12.4:1 ratio I'm currently running I don't even need the pedals to take off it just goes. I should have the last couple issues fixed tomorrow and ready for a real cruise Saturday after class.
 
Bike is basically done. I need to add a tach, speedo, new hand grips but otherwise I've put around 10 miles on it so far and it works great. My 10 year old and 13 year olds have both driven it and can't get enough of it, the wife says I should hurry and build another so she can have this one.
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She is 5'10" so you can get an idea of how tall the bike is, it sits pretty low.
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I deciced to keep the front brake polished and think it turned out pretty good with the other chrome accents on the bike.
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This bike was originally a coaster brake only bike so I added some shimano X7 brake levers which work great. I'm not sure how they're considered in the biking community but from what I can tell they're excellent, the spring loaded feature is nice.
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Closeup of the new clutch and pulley guard I made last night out of 2" X 1/8" steel plate and 1/4" round bar.
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Rear sheave. I discovered due to the wide tires I needed spacers for the sheave. I wasn't willing to wait another week or 2 to get the already made ones so I took some 3/16" plate I had and made my own.
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Honda GX390 fuel tank purchased new so I didn't have to worry about rust or other dirt, the supports are 3/16" X 3/4" flat stock and the mounting plates are 1/8". I ran a 1/2" X 1/8" strap to under the seat post area to keep it in place, this mount is very sturdy yet light for being made of steel.
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Shot of the wires leg resting against the chain guard, it actually is much more comfortable than it looks. I tried making it as light as possible but keep it strong. I don't really care for the solid covers, they just look bulky.
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Good shot of the washers I added to the rear axle so I could have the needed clearance for the belt and sheave, without these the whizzer sheave was hitting the frame due to the needed spacers I had to install on it to clear the belt/ tire contact.
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I wanted to add a spacer between the 2 pulleys on the jackshaft till I add in the constant tension pulley later on for more ratio options on the fly. For now I picked up this copper spacer from home depot that fits the 5/8" shaft perfectly.
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Oh one thing I forgot to add. The Felt abraham fork works great the only problem I had with it is the nuts above the springs. I lost 3 of them in the first 10 minute ride around the neighborhood and yes they were on pretty snug, its just the nature of them, I feel the nylock nuts do away with this issue completely and should be included with the forks. I went to the local hardware store and bought some 10mmX1.25 locking nuts with the nylon in them and 2 new acorn style nuts which I loctited in place.

Also I went through and put lactite on everything but the 2 exhaust nuts and axle nuts, otherwise if it was a nut or bolt or looked at me funny it got blue loctite.
 
Man oh man! That is a really nice bike! I too like your open belt guard. Your attention to detail really shows.
 
I really wanted to run a tank in from the front of the seat to the fork but it would have required too much work and I didn't want to cut up the frame to do it the way I wanted so I went this route.

The next bike I build I will actually to all out on and make it exactly how I want with no compromise. It will be a custom frame, tank and maybe leaf spring fork. Not sure just yet, it will not be a replica but more of a "my version" of a BTR that's low, long and mean.
 
Nice beach cruiser how well does it do hills and your jack shaft where did you buy those parts from and that engine plate to really like your bike cause its simple. I just got my beach cruiser painted got it for free at the dump was going to try to find a H F 99cc mine has a funny name Mad Waggon My wife said it fits me.
 
The bike has plenty of power as is. The video was only about 1/2 throttle so it doesn't accurately show acceleration. I haven't taken it up any steep hills yet but I have no doubt that it will easily accelerate up any hill here in Texas with ease.

The mount plate I made from 3/16" steel. I drilled out multiple holes per engine mounting hole and used a die grinder to elongate them so I wound up with 4 slotted holes so I could adjust motor position and tension the belt.

The jackshaft uses a wheel hub for a shifter cart with 5/8" ID bearings and 5/8" shaft.

Pulleys are
3" on clutch that goes to
5" on jackshaft
2" inner jackshaft that goes to
15" Whizzer pulley

The video isn't very accurate (I left my 1d mark IV in the house) I used a cheap shockproof camera to let my kids video it. It does sound kinda like a Harley at idle and cruise oddly enough. It is fairly quiet but not as quiet as the stock 99cc muffler. I'll try and get some better video up later.
 
Thanks for the pulley list! Whenever I get to thinking that I will not be building another MB I see one like yours and it always sparks that fire... great job!

I really like the look of the pulleys and Whizzer sheave vs. chains. If I had the resources to do a build right now, I would go with a 79/99cc HF motor vertically mounted with belts/sheave like you are running. I wonder how well a vertical mount would work in a frame like yours with the fat top tube to seal and use as a gas tank?
 
The motor would fit just fine but I wouldn't waste my time with the top tank. I looked into itandnits a huge headache for very little capacity. I don't have the estimated numbers in front of me but I wanna say I remember it being maybe 1/4 gal if that much, don't quote me on that I don't remember the exact number.

I didn't feel it was worth messing with the top tank stop which is why I looked at cutting the top tube out and fabbing in a nice enclosed tank roughly 7/8 - 1 gallon.

I hear there are other holes in the top tube area but I know when you remove the fork and look down into the head tube there are 2 large ( looks like 1/2 each) holes that would be difficult to seal, supposedly there is more.

I really wanted a top tube tank which is why my next build will have one is can build one like a BTR.
 
carcrafter22 said:
The motor would fit just fine but I wouldn't waste my time with the top tank. I looked into itandnits a huge headache for very little capacity. I don't have the estimated numbers in front of me but I wanna say I remember it being maybe 1/4 gal if that much, don't quote me on that I don't remember the exact number.
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Thanks for the heads-up. I was not sure about the capacity, but ~1/4 gallon is definitely a little smaller than I would be comfortable with. I really have not seen many ready-made motorcycle style tanks that I like for cruiser style frames, so maybe a nice keg tank like one of the Coyotes. I had a pork-and-beans tank on my china girl that I liked, but I used JB Weld to hold the gas line fitting on and it cracked...
 
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