Felt Cruiser Tank Sealing
The tank on the Felt Cruisers are not air / fluid tight from the factory and some easy modifications to seal the tank is needed prior to adding fuel for use. I highly suggest that you do this part of your build prior to any assembly as the tank / frame will need to be rotated several times for cold welding, de-greasing, acid etching and finally a protective coating.
The first step is to dis-assemble your motor bike including the head set and fork assembly, cranks and bottom brackets, seat post, etc. Basically get the frame down to just the frame.
Wrap your frame several times in plastic wrap. The better you have your frame wrapped the better protection you have from minor scraps and scratches.
Next you will want to drill the fuel bung hole. Centering the frame can be done with a string from the head stock to the seat post. For good placement of the cap assembly lay the cap on top of the frame and pick a good location. Approximately 3.5 inches from the head stock is plenty.
I use the KW Machine Works Bung and cap. This is a specially designed assembly for the Felt Cruisers and features a slight curvature that fits very snug to the tank. This product uses a 1 3/8" inch hole saw which can be purchased at almost any hardware store (DeWalt - D180022IR - 1-3/8 = 35mm).
Next you will want to drill the port for your fuel pet cock. Various pet cocks come in several sizes. I like the old school look of a glass strainer bowl / filter element. One of the best for looks and parts replacement is sold by Stiener Tractor Parts. Measure before you drill however, most bowl strainers are 3/8" inch. Have your part in hand prior to drilling! The access hole should be approximately 3.5 inches forward of the seat post and slightly to the right side of the motor bike.
Working on the head stock of the motor bike you will want to tape off the holes in the head through the fork tube. You can use masking tape or duct tape so long as you have good adhesion. Next you will want to mix two tubes of J B Weld. This comes in a quick setting and regular, I suggest the regular. Purchase a large syringe, one can be bought at Walmart in the portable fuel tank section (used for mix gas) Purchase two. Now flip the frame so that the head stock is pointing downward.
Put the mixed J B weld into a syringe and with the supplied clear tube work the JB Weld material into the holes and seams of the inside of the tank through the drilled bung hole. Use a flash light and insure you have covered all areas. Take some time and rotate your frame back and forward so that the J B Weld does not puddle and coats all seams and holes in the head stock. Let this dry over night and check to see if you need more coverage. If so repeat the process.
Working with the frame turned and the head stock pointing up, take some good quality steel wool and pack the edges of the frame nearest the seat post through the pet cock hole. Make sure you have this steel wool material packed well on both sides of the seat post. You will need a stiff wire and a screw driver to get it in there good.
Pack the tank tube good at this location and leave about ½” inch below the pet cock. You may also want to place a piece of tape over the hole inside the seat tube, this can be done with a finger or a screw driver. NOTE: The "Y" behind the seat stay can be drilled from the bottom and plastic bags inserted to the left and right down tubes. Fill the cavity with JB Weld to seal the back seat stay voids
Mix two tubes of J B Weld and load a new syringe with product. Working through the pet cock opening fill the void with enough J B Weld to get within 3/8" of an inch of the pet cock opening. Check to make sure your J B Weld stays where you placed it. If the level starts to drop then your product is running down the frame rear stays and will need to be packed better. See the note above to avoid this issue and for a much better modification.
Tamp on the sides of the tank where you have placed the J B Weld several times to help shake the cold weld into place and insure that you have good coverage. Once completed let your frame dry for 24 hours minimum if not longer.
You may now water test your frame, just fill and check for leaks. If all is good then I suggest that you take the plastic off the frame and wash the frame inside and out with dish washing liquid and warm water to remove all grease inside and out, especially inside the tank.
For internal coating of the tank I recommend Kreem or Red Coat. Please follow all instructions given with these products, follow safety instructions they provide including eye protection and gloves.
Steve Duncan - 2011
Pipe Bomb Bikes - Pipe Bomb Bikes
The tank on the Felt Cruisers are not air / fluid tight from the factory and some easy modifications to seal the tank is needed prior to adding fuel for use. I highly suggest that you do this part of your build prior to any assembly as the tank / frame will need to be rotated several times for cold welding, de-greasing, acid etching and finally a protective coating.
The first step is to dis-assemble your motor bike including the head set and fork assembly, cranks and bottom brackets, seat post, etc. Basically get the frame down to just the frame.
Wrap your frame several times in plastic wrap. The better you have your frame wrapped the better protection you have from minor scraps and scratches.
Next you will want to drill the fuel bung hole. Centering the frame can be done with a string from the head stock to the seat post. For good placement of the cap assembly lay the cap on top of the frame and pick a good location. Approximately 3.5 inches from the head stock is plenty.
I use the KW Machine Works Bung and cap. This is a specially designed assembly for the Felt Cruisers and features a slight curvature that fits very snug to the tank. This product uses a 1 3/8" inch hole saw which can be purchased at almost any hardware store (DeWalt - D180022IR - 1-3/8 = 35mm).
Next you will want to drill the port for your fuel pet cock. Various pet cocks come in several sizes. I like the old school look of a glass strainer bowl / filter element. One of the best for looks and parts replacement is sold by Stiener Tractor Parts. Measure before you drill however, most bowl strainers are 3/8" inch. Have your part in hand prior to drilling! The access hole should be approximately 3.5 inches forward of the seat post and slightly to the right side of the motor bike.
Working on the head stock of the motor bike you will want to tape off the holes in the head through the fork tube. You can use masking tape or duct tape so long as you have good adhesion. Next you will want to mix two tubes of J B Weld. This comes in a quick setting and regular, I suggest the regular. Purchase a large syringe, one can be bought at Walmart in the portable fuel tank section (used for mix gas) Purchase two. Now flip the frame so that the head stock is pointing downward.
Put the mixed J B weld into a syringe and with the supplied clear tube work the JB Weld material into the holes and seams of the inside of the tank through the drilled bung hole. Use a flash light and insure you have covered all areas. Take some time and rotate your frame back and forward so that the J B Weld does not puddle and coats all seams and holes in the head stock. Let this dry over night and check to see if you need more coverage. If so repeat the process.
Working with the frame turned and the head stock pointing up, take some good quality steel wool and pack the edges of the frame nearest the seat post through the pet cock hole. Make sure you have this steel wool material packed well on both sides of the seat post. You will need a stiff wire and a screw driver to get it in there good.
Pack the tank tube good at this location and leave about ½” inch below the pet cock. You may also want to place a piece of tape over the hole inside the seat tube, this can be done with a finger or a screw driver. NOTE: The "Y" behind the seat stay can be drilled from the bottom and plastic bags inserted to the left and right down tubes. Fill the cavity with JB Weld to seal the back seat stay voids
Mix two tubes of J B Weld and load a new syringe with product. Working through the pet cock opening fill the void with enough J B Weld to get within 3/8" of an inch of the pet cock opening. Check to make sure your J B Weld stays where you placed it. If the level starts to drop then your product is running down the frame rear stays and will need to be packed better. See the note above to avoid this issue and for a much better modification.
Tamp on the sides of the tank where you have placed the J B Weld several times to help shake the cold weld into place and insure that you have good coverage. Once completed let your frame dry for 24 hours minimum if not longer.
You may now water test your frame, just fill and check for leaks. If all is good then I suggest that you take the plastic off the frame and wash the frame inside and out with dish washing liquid and warm water to remove all grease inside and out, especially inside the tank.
For internal coating of the tank I recommend Kreem or Red Coat. Please follow all instructions given with these products, follow safety instructions they provide including eye protection and gloves.
Steve Duncan - 2011
Pipe Bomb Bikes - Pipe Bomb Bikes
