Electra build gx100

Discussion in 'Stretch Cruiser & Chopper Motorized Bicycles' started by scratchbuilder, Dec 1, 2016.

  1. scratchbuilder

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    Your right , KC, I had a washer that I did exactly what you have suggested..but, it I guess was to thin and would flex or do something that still allowed it to move. I'm going to do what you stated using some stainless. Since I already have the hole from my washer attempt. I prefer the 3sp ratios, the 4sp hasn't move at all. Probably cause I didn't bugger the treads up or maybe because it has a non-turn on both sides.
     
  2. cannonball2

    cannonball2 Active Member

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    Hey Scratch why don't you just weld a tab on the frame for the adjusters. I did it on my ancient Western Flyer build. Works fine. Had to use angle on mine to get length. All you need is a tab. Heck even a small eyebolt would do.
     

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  3. scratchbuilder

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    I like that. No give to that setup. More info to process!
     
  4. scratchbuilder

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    Wow, I have just learned the importance of No excessive slack in my chains. I just tighten em up....no clutch chatter, golly gee wizz. The ammount of slackness I was using was based on how I did my motorcycle chain from years ago. Not.
     
  5. KCvale

    KCvale Active Member

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    Ya, you want to keep your chains 'firm'.
    I am just finishing up another 53cc 4-stroke shifter with a SA 5-speed internal and disc brake shifter and the Axle Tug I use.

    [​IMG]

    I love this system ;}
     
  6. scratchbuilder

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    Yes, nice indeed. I like 'your' Js. Always clean.
     
  7. scratchbuilder

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    Picked up a pair of Duro Beach Bum 3.00 tires today at a local bike shop that builds 2 stroke kit bikes. I've seen them on amazon, and when I seen them at the shop I couldn't leave w/o em! Besides I needed new tires....hey I've got a throttle hesitation at times from idle to acceleration..any thoughts? Runnin a pz20. These tires have nice thick tread. They make my cst's look small..
     

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    #47 scratchbuilder, Dec 30, 2016
    Last edited: Dec 30, 2016
  8. cannonball2

    cannonball2 Active Member

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    Nice, love the 3.0s

    I had looked at those. Build wouldnt absorb a 3.0 tire though.
    Usually run Hookworms but recently bought some Cheng Shinn 2.4s Have run Cheng Shinn for years on M/Cs.
    Look like a Hookworm knock off but much cheaper.
    I like em.
     
  9. scratchbuilder

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    Yeah I like the rubber sidewalls, the cst's are some kind of mesh hybred. I have no complaints about the cst's, heck 2500 miles, and still could have kept goin. I did rub a hole though the sidewall by not checking brake adj daily.(v brakes)
     

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    #49 scratchbuilder, Dec 31, 2016
    Last edited: Dec 31, 2016
  10. scratchbuilder

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    Well, I have to grind some space for the tire. Hoping to remove enough off the horseshoe for 1/4" clearance. Had to remove 1/4 off the front also.
     

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    #50 scratchbuilder, Dec 31, 2016
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  11. MEASURE TWICE

    MEASURE TWICE Active Member

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    If it seems like so much would have to be removed that it compromises strength, then you might consider what I did.

    I welded metal to the opposite side of the tube where metal was being removed first. This kept the frame from warping. Otherwise it may require some kind of jig to keep it from warping while adding metal.

    For esthetic looks you could figure some way of getting some tube with the same shape that has a slightly larger radius and weld it in place before grinding away any of existing tubing.
     
  12. scratchbuilder

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    I should be ok with just removing a 1/4" from the inside of the shoe. The brake arm lugs have welded spots inside and outside. Having to remove everything is the bummer. But I need to make a permanent brake light/ battery box, so all'swell
     
    #52 scratchbuilder, Jan 1, 2017
    Last edited: Jan 1, 2017
  13. scratchbuilder

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    Ok..ive always said 2 minds are better than one. Back on page 4 I thought I could just cut the back side of my dropout and use axle keepers...it just hit me as to why I can't...of course you all know already..now I understand you CB2 about how And! why you did yours the way you did..with the tab. I was sittin her thinking I've now got to get some wide rims for these 3.0 tires. These skinny ones are not good! So the 3sp is the one I'll put the wide rim on....and the axle keeps came to mind(cause I will need them) and the lite came on, that the adj. only work on slide outs. My eyes just cost me alot of $ and work...i seen those tires and had to have em. They do ride nice. No hard jolts when I miss seeing a hole in the road.
     
  14. cannonball2

    cannonball2 Active Member

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    Get out the welder and weld a tab at the top of the horseshoe then run bmx side pulls. These work great. Just get some with 98mm depth. You may have to clearance the calipers a bit.

    Baring all this working drop back to 2.5s. They will clear and ride great too!
     
  15. scratchbuilder

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    Drop back to 2.5....but,but...another thing I didn't consider...tubes..2.125 work, another, but..stretched to what point? So 3.0 tubes are 14$ ea. So I got one and will carry it with me, while I see how long the 2.125 last. Risky I know. I laced up the 3sp to a felt rim I had. And solved the problem of 'axle slide' with a 1/8"x3/4 flat bar drilled to slip on the axle and bolt into an existing hole. Since I'm using a tensioner, no need for wheel adj..just stay put! After all is done, happy, happy with the cushioned ride.
     

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    #55 scratchbuilder, Jan 4, 2017
    Last edited: Jan 4, 2017
  16. scratchbuilder

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    Nix the tank in front..back to the ole rack mount 79 pred tank.
     

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    #56 scratchbuilder, Jan 6, 2017
    Last edited: Jan 6, 2017
  17. cannonball2

    cannonball2 Active Member

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    Come on man solder some cans together!

    So what I miss? I see your ridin the Bums? Brakes?

    On my traveling bike I went to thorn proof(resistant) tubes. Very thick. Still holding air a few yrs later. They were 2.125 bet they would blow up to 4.0!

    Great build!!
     
  18. scratchbuilder

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    Thx CB, hey I picked up a v8 juice can to use.....4days later I took out and opened it for a drink......then remembered....dang, I was gonna make a gas tank! I'm using linear pull brakes.(v). I agree on the tube deal. I'm gonna put a thorn resistant one up front.
     
    #58 scratchbuilder, Jan 6, 2017
    Last edited: Jan 6, 2017
  19. ru14real

    ru14real Member

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    scratchbuilder Id sure like to see you start a new thread on how you built that jackshaft. complete with a parts list and links to where you bought them. Sure looks sweet. BTW, what honda motor is that? Its hard for me to see. It looks like 100 cc one. Am I right?
     
  20. scratchbuilder

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    Hey ru, I go to swap meets weekly. And that Honda GX100, I picked up for...10$!!. It didn't have a carb, but I use the pz20 anyway. That GX is a OHCam• right place...the Electra frame, same swap meet, 25$. The Js is just 1 1/2 galvanized pipe. 1 3/8 bearings fit nice. The welded on brackets were another swap meet find. This guy had all sorts of brackets, I seen those and picked up a couple. Had the pipe, then when the build got going all the pieces came together. It does work nice. As you can see it needs room though. Could always come up with a way to mount it on the seat tube. The bearings come either, agk or sbp. 2.50$ea.
     
    #60 scratchbuilder, Jan 7, 2017
    Last edited: Jan 7, 2017

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