Drive chain sticks part 2

G

George Tirebiter

Member
Well, I lubed the chain and adjusted it to line up but it's very close to the chain stay. It looks like it is perfect and it rolls a little better but is still catching on the sprocket adapter. Can I adjust the sprocket without having to take the coaster brake and wheel off? Anything else I can do? Thanks,
George
 
I think we might need photos at this point. If you are using a stock sprocket you might not have noticed that they are gently dished. So mounting one way will bring the teeth closer to the spokes and flipping it over will put them further away. The key is to get the straightest run at the drive sprocket on the engine and then work around that. If by adapter you mean chain tensioner you can flip that around as well to give you a little adjustment.
 
I used to always grind all the teeth of rear sprocket so that they are knife-sharp in the direction of the chain run so that they can not fail to find the center of the links (instead of hitting side plate & having chain try to ride up th tooth) - lately, sprockets are much thinner, so I don't bother unless there is a problem with it.
 
If you have to flip the sprocket the wheel has to come off. To move the adapter clam shell just loosen the bolts and move it.
Alignment is everything. You'll be glad you fiddled with it til it's right.
No chain jumps, no excess wear, no noises, it all good.
 
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