Do Boost Bottles Work?!
- Thread starter alienboy366
- Start date
Naw, IMHO, they really don't AlienB. A good while back when they first got popular with the MB world, it was a very hotly debated subject. A thing I have learned is all these new, incredible, wonder performance parts is, if they worked, they would be on mass produced stuff. Boost bottles, fuel line magnets and a great many gimmicks all usually have very logical sounding reasons that they work. Below is the rational.
From http://www.boostbottleindustries.com/Boost_bottle_information_page.html
"How does a boost bottle work?
It's function is to absorb & release pressure pulses within the intake vein, assisting engine breathing. Now an explanation of exactly what goes on involves a lot of physics and a good understanding of fluid dynamics & pressure zones, but can be explained rather easily. During the intake stroke, air is sucked through the intake manifold and into the port at a considerable velocity. Because of this velocity, the air is said to have relative inertia. Now, when the intake valve closes, the kinetically charged air suddenly has nowhere to go, creating a high-pressure area. Naturally, the air wants to release its pressure in the easiest way possible, so it tries to shoot back out the way it came, creating a pressure wave in the opposite direction we want it. Then no sooner dose the wave begin to travel, the intake valve suddenly opens again leaving the motor to try and pull the pressure wave back in again. This dramatically effects low RPM, wastes energy and kills low-end performance. Now the same engine, but with a BOOST BOTTLE. Air goes whistling down the manifold until the intake valve closes. The air, still all charged up with energy tries to escape back up the manifold but is met with a small port that has a residual vacuum. This vacuum being caused by the previous suction of the intake stroke, sucks most of the pulse inside the Boost Bottle, storing much of the pulse’s energy. The intake valve then suddenly opens, creating a low-pressure area outside of the Boost Bottle. The gasses then shoot out of the Boost Bottle, directly into the intake system as a pressure pulse, instead of having to be pulled in by the piston. More air is then also pulled in from the manifold to completely fill the cylinder… Thus giving you an additional boost of power"
From http://www.boostbottleindustries.com/Boost_bottle_information_page.html
"How does a boost bottle work?
It's function is to absorb & release pressure pulses within the intake vein, assisting engine breathing. Now an explanation of exactly what goes on involves a lot of physics and a good understanding of fluid dynamics & pressure zones, but can be explained rather easily. During the intake stroke, air is sucked through the intake manifold and into the port at a considerable velocity. Because of this velocity, the air is said to have relative inertia. Now, when the intake valve closes, the kinetically charged air suddenly has nowhere to go, creating a high-pressure area. Naturally, the air wants to release its pressure in the easiest way possible, so it tries to shoot back out the way it came, creating a pressure wave in the opposite direction we want it. Then no sooner dose the wave begin to travel, the intake valve suddenly opens again leaving the motor to try and pull the pressure wave back in again. This dramatically effects low RPM, wastes energy and kills low-end performance. Now the same engine, but with a BOOST BOTTLE. Air goes whistling down the manifold until the intake valve closes. The air, still all charged up with energy tries to escape back up the manifold but is met with a small port that has a residual vacuum. This vacuum being caused by the previous suction of the intake stroke, sucks most of the pulse inside the Boost Bottle, storing much of the pulse’s energy. The intake valve then suddenly opens, creating a low-pressure area outside of the Boost Bottle. The gasses then shoot out of the Boost Bottle, directly into the intake system as a pressure pulse, instead of having to be pulled in by the piston. More air is then also pulled in from the manifold to completely fill the cylinder… Thus giving you an additional boost of power"
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Personally I use them, If I didn't make them myself I wouldn't spend the kind of money they want for them. Easy to make, and cost about $5.00.
1-1/2" Sch 40 PVC Sch 20 can be used but the bottle will be shorter.
Length is dependent on the cc engine size.
(2) PVC end caps
(1) 1/8" NPT brass nipple
(1) 1/4" NPT brass nipple
drill for both the 1/8 and 1/4
1/8 NPT tap
1/4 NPT tap
And believe it or not...JB Weld.
Should you decide to use one and want any assistance send a PM.
What is pictured is for a 66cc engine.
Ron
1-1/2" Sch 40 PVC Sch 20 can be used but the bottle will be shorter.
Length is dependent on the cc engine size.
(2) PVC end caps
(1) 1/8" NPT brass nipple
(1) 1/4" NPT brass nipple
drill for both the 1/8 and 1/4
1/8 NPT tap
1/4 NPT tap
And believe it or not...JB Weld.
Should you decide to use one and want any assistance send a PM.
What is pictured is for a 66cc engine.
Ron
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Pretty neat how boost bottles work but theres one problem, these engines don't have valves. Therefore it's a complete waste of money. I made one for my bike and the only thing I noticed was just about nothing.
Very cool and this is fun, lets do an actual scientific thing and figure out if a boost bottle works or does not. Who is with me?
How do we do it? what are the rules and more importantly, k, I got nutton, But as a community, how do we as a group go at this? More importantly how do we talk coed's into thinking this has importance?
How do we do it? what are the rules and more importantly, k, I got nutton, But as a community, how do we as a group go at this? More importantly how do we talk coed's into thinking this has importance?
Despite what I said in recent comments I'll take Dan up on that offer. I have a few rules that might be good to work with. #1. You can only test on HT engines. #2. Airleaks around the intake nipple do not count in this scientific thing the system must be leak free. #3. You can't lie in this exam about your results whether you think Boost bottles work or not, if you do lie I'll send over a special person or persons with a paddle and a bar of soap, KAPISH. LOL. Anyways, I also think could be fun to do. And as far as the coed's. We should tell them that there many people possibly being misguided into buying something that could be a complete hoax and we can't let that happen to innocent bystanders wanting too mod their bikes but can't in fear of buying something that will not improve their bikes performance costing them sometimes large amounts of money and also we'll be gaining more knowhow with this exam. HUUUUUH. That was a long sentence.LOL Let's go for it Dan. 
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I am in Texun! I give my absolute word I will never lie, cheat or steal unless I could make 8 million dollars. (every man is supposed to have his price, that is mine. So if a boost bottle sales person is known to offer 8mill, then please ignore me)
I really would like to see an actual experiment. My last running China-girl is out back with a bad head bolt. Be no problem to experiment her
I really would like to see an actual experiment. My last running China-girl is out back with a bad head bolt. Be no problem to experiment her
I have one and I like it. It's on a 49cc happytime. It seemed to me to smooth it out and pull a little harder, doesn't go any faster top speed. The trick is to have the line plumbed in right next to the jug.
I'm planning to make one for my Tanaka. Probably someone will have another give-away boost bottle or I'll make one. I got my last one for price-of-shipping from someone who didn't like it.
Here is mine. I think it was commercially made. I think you could manage to get the b bottle barb even closer to the engine if you made your own, but you'd have to use better hose or it would burn.
I'm planning to make one for my Tanaka. Probably someone will have another give-away boost bottle or I'll make one. I got my last one for price-of-shipping from someone who didn't like it.
Here is mine. I think it was commercially made. I think you could manage to get the b bottle barb even closer to the engine if you made your own, but you'd have to use better hose or it would burn.
Personally I use them, If I didn't make them myself I wouldn't spend the kind of money they want for them. Easy to make, and cost about $5.00.
1-1/2" Sch 40 PVC Sch 20 can be used but the bottle will be shorter.
Length is dependent on the cc engine size.
(2) PVC end caps
(1) 1/8" NPT brass nipple
(1) 1/4" NPT brass nipple
drill for both the 1/8 and 1/4
1/8 NPT tap
1/4 NPT tap
And believe it or not...JB Weld.
Should you decide to use one and want any assistance send a PM.
What is pictured is for a 66cc engine.
Ron
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I am not sure how to explain, but I'll try. When I'm riding the bike now, I can feel a little pulse, esp at very low position of the slide, like it's pulling at the slide in the carb. It seems like it idles a little better and takes off from stop lights better. It was cheap to try it and I like it, so I'm happy.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lHBeYe8jg48&feature=related r/c boat builder makes his own b bottle from a Ronson lighter fuel can.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lHBeYe8jg48&feature=related r/c boat builder makes his own b bottle from a Ronson lighter fuel can.
I recently got a boost bottle and installed it properly but when i fired up the engine after installing the bottle, the idle is way out of control. i have a CNS preformance carb i am using with this boost bottle. I cant even control the idle with the idle screw. it just dosent respond at all to the idle screw. It just idles super high, almost like i am pinning the throttle with the clutch in. I also played around with the air to fuel screw and i still couldnt adjust the idle or tune it at all. It did not do this before i installed the boost bottle. Any ideas on what the problem might be? I was thinking i need to get different jets for it.
hey TEM, I didn't have any luck with a CNS (v1) and boost bottle either. I had best results with the NT carb.
The CNS is a finely tunable carb, but it can be finicky. Many regard the CNS v2 to be untunable to begin with. YMMV.
The CNS is a finely tunable carb, but it can be finicky. Many regard the CNS v2 to be untunable to begin with. YMMV.
The thread around the nipple most likely has a leak mine did the same thing. Pull the nipple out of the intake and reseal the threads on it that should fix you up.
After grinding the nipple so that there is none protruding into the intake itself, I coat the threads with JB Weld and tighten in place. This is the only place I use JB on MB. By intake has a 1/8" brass nipple and the bottle has a 1/4" brass nipple. I use the 1/8" due to lack of working room.
On the HT engines, its so easy to try a Bbtl. Just switch intake manifold tubes, and if you don't like it, you can hawk it on the classifieds or a thread here.
So I tried my BoostBottle again. I sealed the threads on the nipple with JBkwik and got it air tight. The PRO's. It did in fact smooth out the take off and mid range, there was very low vibration. The CONs. This is not a joke, I lost over 7MPH. The hill coming back home I used to go 32-33MPH now maybe 25-26MPH and on a flat for about 4 blocks Id top 35-36MPH now 29-30MPH. So my take on it is if your looking for comfort get one, if your racing just leave it.
Texhun, don't give up yet. What size (volume) bottle are you using? What engine size (displacement) do you have? What is the position of the bottle? (if the nozzle on bottle is facing down, that is best. If it faces up, vapor of fuel can condense in there, then it gets weird, maybe stalling a bit sometimes) You may have to re-jet your carb or adjust the needle.