DIY parts with simple tools.

I think it would need the axle and the fender mount holes to be an anchor point but the main A Frame housing could pivot on its own shoulder bolt rather then rely on the axle itself. It could be probably no more than an inch away from the axle and pivot freely with room to spare... I am brainstorming this but it is in attempts to show others the theory of design before manufacturing... Making it is the easy part once you know what you want even with hand tools...
 
The part that is a deck, sort of, when it is over the fender, would have to swivel so it isn't parallel with the tire when used as a stand. I hope I have that worded right! In the stand position it would look like an upside down letter "T". If it wasn't the bike wouldn't be very stable.

Terry
 
I see what you are saying Full Timer and I like the idea of a stand doing double duty as rear rack and since my bike has no rear fender it is a non issue for me at least. In fact the stand / lift would be more like an A rather than a T so when it is lifting it is an upright A and when it is a rack it would be an inverted A with the pivot point of the assembly at the top point of the A...

Trying to balance a project like this to make it as workable as possible for as many people as possible is the hard part of design.

After re-looking at my bike which is a Huffy Cranbrook I am thinking we might need to focus on a single duty stand only vs the dual duty lift/rack idea which lifts the bike something like 2" and in the rest position is at something like a horizontal 90 degree plan behind the rear wheel.

I kind of have both ideas laid out in my head but we need a firm direction before beginning.

Opinions?
 
Last edited:
I really do like this. Sitting here staring at a bike, had a thought. (about the double duty thing) would be a pain to come out of the store with your bee...em bag of groceries, get the bike off the kick stand. Then load your bag(s) on a free standing bike. So have the part that makes contact with the ground, have it slide under the "deck" of the rack.

Could have a bolt or spring-ed or even velcro to secure it in the upright position. (thank you for flying MB airlines)
 
I must go out to the pile and set a spell gazing at the geometry of it all, which won't be difficult... :-)

it occurs to me that some bikes bring the rear chainstays together then run them side by side to where they attach to the BB. There is sometimes a cross piece welded in there for a side-stand attachment.

If this were cut out of a frame with a hacksaw (simple, cheap tool), and left long enough before cutting off the dropout, it could be connected at the location of the #1 bike with U bolts holding a bolt for a hinge pin, if the forward part of the stays were drilled (another tool). Suitable spring could be selected to hold it up when not in use.

Does that make any sense?

...yes, I need a center stand, about now! :-)

Best
rc
 
Thats a cool thunk Rusty.
As kids we used to do that to make sling shots. Local dollar store sold flip-flop shoes with rubber tubing for the upper parts that made for great stretching part.

But really do like your idea. Scavenged parts are always great to use.
 
I also had that after thought about the dual duty stands drawbacks and difficulties... I like both of your thinking and think they deserve a good thunk over LOL... I will draw up my Idea later as time permits to show you what I think is workable.
 
Last edited:
Dan you said you want to send me the info for my online magazine why don't I just make you an editor there and you can post the stuff you have freely...
 
MarkSumpter said:
I also had that after thought about the dual duty stands drawbacks and difficulties... I like both of your thinking and think they deserve a good thunk over LOL... I will draw up my Idea later as time permits to show you what I think is workable.
Click to expand...

Uber cool Mark, thank you. I really don't seem to follow concepts in text well. (ever see some of my replies to posts needing help or some thing? I'm always out in left field looking north when the field faces south, snork)


One thing I was thinking, if the deck of the kick stand does slide under the uper deck of of the rack, a matching bolt hole where a bolt could just be placed in so as to hold it in place or one of those slightly bent trailer pins.

Thinking about it now, would rattle and make noise. I really never know until I actually make some thing.

Starting right now on the bolt-on to your kick stand. Gonna make one with just bolts and a welded one after
 
Couldn't find the piece of steel flat stock I had saved for the A frame kick stand/bolt on. My MB was leaning on the bike who was gonna lend the kick stand to experiment with. So put it on and after looking at yer pics Dawgs, am thinking just a length of flat stock bent in an "L" and bolted on would work. Still would not fall over on soft ground and would be an easy fix. Buy some flat stock and 2 ubolts, done deal.
 
Here's a cheapie quickie tool I made an hour or so ago to align the sprocket on the rag joint.

It's a plastic clip from a 'Redi Shade'.
Heated the ends with my bic lighter and bent them to hold the chainstay, then put a bookmatch in there to bump the sprocket.

It worked.
and now I got another dumb tool to store somewhere on the shelf!

:-)
rc
 

Attachments

  • cliptool.jpg
    cliptool.jpg
    41.3 KB · Views: 217
Last edited:
Threw this together. Can be made with a drill and a hack saw but I used a drill press and cut-off saw. Is just a ubolt, $1.79 @ ace hardware and some scrap angle aluminum. Calling it a "Dawgs" as it is a weld free version of yours, Prussian Shop Dog. Dunno how many times my early builds fell over when parked on soft ground. Just can't look cool when gasping like a child and running to pick up yer bike while gas is spilling out on some one's grass.
My cut off saw is actually this wood saw with a metal blade. Burns metal as it is to fast but works fine other wise. The cut off blades I use are rated for the RPM. Sparks are big time dangerous. I took some tin and made a shield behind. Really is a fire hazard and using a blade not rated for the RPMs will not end well.

LOL, now a word from our lawyers.....


Dawgs.jpg


Painted it black but plan to cut off the corners and make it round. (er)

Was the goal, cheap and easy. Kinda like the goal of dating when yer 20 some thing. snicker
 
Chain Breaker;

To break a chain, I drill a hole in a pc of scrap wood. Use a puch to start it and a nail to drive the pin out. This really is a "use a bigger hammer" deal. A hand sledge works far better then a heavy framing hammer for example. Will drive ya nutz with tap, tap, tapping (gently, at my chamber door" E.A. Poe)

This morning I used a pc of soft wood and was not working well. I put a washer over the hole and set it in with the sledge. Worked awesome. The soft wood absorbed the blows and the washer gave the solid stop so the pin came out easily.

Any wood will work fine. Just an added extra.

I don't know how many chain breakers I own but can never find one when I need it. So I bought another one for $20. Had misaligned jaws so returned it.
 

Attachments

  • chain breaker DIY.jpg
    chain breaker DIY.jpg
    516 KB · Views: 214
To the left and below the washer is a grease smudge that looks like a hole. It's not. Just a smudge and impression made from the chain. The soft wood aided in holding the chain in place.
 
Last edited:
hey anyone ever attempt that diy dual stand as i have a simpler idea of how it could be done, would need welder though. you know those solid bar stands on older bikes, make a version with 2 bent down legs from rebar or solid round stock, then get a small bit of plate wide enough to go width of frame plus a bit for flap down each side, drill 2 holes in matching positions near either end adn in middle drill hole big enough to accept a bolt and bend bracket to shape. insert the bolt and weld head into place( wont get on with spanner once legs in place) insert through 2 other holes in end the legs u bent( measure length needed urself) and then get a small bolt or something and weld onto a leg for spring and have other end of spring held between frame and clamp for return/holder. i hope u can follow what i said.
 
A 4" door butt hinge would be a good start on the kickstand. Holes could be drilled out to bolt to bike and legs bolted on other side of hinge.
 
chain how would it fold fully shut as full down stand with a bolt in way, unless theres a bolt out there thats got a countersunk style head? i never seen any but most likely is. otherwise good thinking.
 
RED is bikeframe, GREEN is hinge, BLUE is kickstand. Kickstand is angle iron, folded down it hits the hinge thereby standing. Folds back up against frame. Add spring to hold in up and down positions. Put bolts as necessary, plate on top of frame to bolt to hinge. I could draw it up but I am too lazy to put the hours in. But yeah this could be done with a drill hacksaw and a file, stuff from hardware store.kickstand.png
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top