did a springer fork

[trackfodder]

I finally found the top stuff I mislaid and stuck it all together. Another surprise is the leg length makes the little 19" tire raise the bike so I had to put a 2x4 under the kickstand to keep it from tumping over. Good thing I had adjusted the length earlier by curling up the end rather than sawing it off. All that I need to do is connect the brake cable and mount the bars. It is held on with a 4 bolt bracket in the half-round saddle. If I can find a suitable chunk of ally I will mill the missing top part. Otherwise the threaded holes get raped and a pair of U-bolts used. It's a shame I couldn't drop the gooseneck in the stem but it is thicker than a bike one. I had to knurl the top and bottom of the stem so the clamps would tighten up sufficienly on the yokes. Also used a 1-3/8" thin-wall 1" ID tube to make the length difference on top of the top clamp. Stay tuned. I think it will work out good in the end.

 

[fatdaddy]

I finally found the top stuff I mislaid and stuck it all together. Another surprise is the leg length makes the little 19" tire raise the bike so I had to put a 2x4 under the kickstand to keep it from tumping over. Good thing I had adjusted the length earlier by curling up the end rather than sawing it off. All that I need to do is connect the brake cable and mount the bars. It is held on with a 4 bolt bracket in the half-round saddle. If I can find a suitable chunk of ally I will mill the missing top part. Otherwise the threaded holes get raped and a pair of U-bolts used. It's a shame I couldn't drop the gooseneck in the stem but it is thicker than a bike one. I had to knurl the top and bottom of the stem so the clamps would tighten up sufficienly on the yokes. Also used a 1-3/8" thin-wall 1" ID tube to make the length difference on top of the top clamp. Stay tuned. I think it will work out good in the end.

I got faith in ya TF.
fatdaddy.

 

[trackfodder]

The frustrating thing is the new yahoo won't let me transfer recent photos . I can find them on the start menu pictures, but no recent folders on the stuff I can browse. Spell check doesn't work anymore and I have to go to gocomics to get "in private browsing" to work. In the process of loading what was supposed to be a picture handler, it loaded a bunch of spyware and a redirect virus called safesearch. Will post if I find out how to deal with it. I guess "my Photos" is gone forever.. DAMN YAHOO

 

[maniac57]

The frustrating thing is the new yahoo won't let me transfer recent photos . I can find them on the start menu pictures, but no recent folders on the stuff I can browse. Spell check doesn't work anymore and I have to go to gocomics to get "in private browsing" to work. In the process of loading what was supposed to be a picture handler, it loaded a bunch of spyware and a redirect virus called safesearch. Will post if I find out how to deal with it. I guess "my Photos" is gone forever.. DAMN YAHOO

I also hate losing pics.
I use a free photobucket account as extra backup. Never did trust flikr or any single host. Just copy to several.
It's easy to post to forums from your library and it's free. No issues with malware for me in five or six years and I'm a computer noob.

 

[fatdaddy]

I keep my backup pic's on a flashdrive. If a backup site F's up or goes out of business I always still have my pic's. I don't trust anybody to keep track of my stuff.
fatdaddy.

 

[trackfodder]

I finally managed to re-size and move my latest pix where I could send them Still trying to make front brake stop the bike.,also the twistgrip shifter on the tranny isn't letting me into 3rd gear for some reason It's a Suntour Nexis with built-in brake lever(removed)

 

[fatdaddy]

I finally managed to re-size and move my latest pix where I could send them Still trying to make front brake stop the bike.,also the twistgrip shifter on the tranny isn't letting me into 3rd gear for some reason It's a Suntour Nexis with built-in brake lever(removed)

Lookin good TF. That fork assembly will hold up under ANY condition. Sorry, Can't help ya with the Suntour, I know nothing about them. But you shouldn't have too many problems getting the brake to work, It's just an old school drum. Try taking off the arm and moving it tighter on the spline. Perhaps there is less travel on the lever you're using compared to a motorcycle type lever. You might just have to adjust it closer to make the pads closer to the drum.
And just being curious, Whats behind it under the tarp? Some really cool vintage motorcycle?
fatdaddy.
Just noticed you are using motorcycle levers. Still, If the drum pads are worn they may need to be adjusted or replaced.

 

[trackfodder]

We has met the enemy and he is us. I discovered the shifting chain was for some reason screwed firmly in the crosspiece. The chain was twisted and not running on it's axes(I guess that's plural. Axi?) Seems to work OK but I don't think I am getting 3rd, just (2) 2nds.
Re:the scoot in the background, it's a 1956 Matchless G-80-S I rebuilt for
2nd time. I have had it for~40 yrs. A nice comfy ride and very relaxing . Top about 90. A bit cranky to start when hot. My son seems to have the gift.
This evening I reversed the shoes on the Hodaka brake as it was firm when back rotating but poor forward. Might as well saved my time. For my next act I am going to install it on the other side. Can't imagine what is different unless it's the rotation of the spreader pushes higher on the shoe in reverse
On another note, cleaned the carb on a China Girl and rode it a bit. Those chain tensioner things are a pain, but I installed a half-link in the peddle chain, pulled links out of the drive chain and it is just fine without it.,

 

[fatdaddy]

As I recall from the old days, A brake drum, For some reason, never held as well while pushing a bike backwards. But the wheel seems to be on right, so, so, uh, Hmmm.
Anytime you can get rid of a tensioner it's a good thing. Most bikes won't set up without one, But if it will it's just better.
I KNEW ya had to be hiding something cool under the tarp. Very nice.
Let me know when you get the brake problem worked out, I'm kinda curious as to what it could be.
fatdaddy.

 

[trackfodder]

I installed the brake on the opposite side and it SEEMS to be a bit better. I am getting fed up and considering connecting the rear caliper brake to the foot peddle that now works the no-account coaster brake. found my rattlecan silver wheel paint and did some spraying. Couldn't find my lacquer thinner so the tires for now show my haste.
Went for a ride on my China Girl with 1-3/8 tires and a little of that goes a LONG way. If I can find a long 3/4" spring or a bunch of short ones, I am thinking of a plunger seat post (like an ancient Hawg) with an alignment yoke with upper travel limit on the front of the seat.

 

[fatdaddy]

I guess ya can't expect an old drum to stop ya like a disc. As long as it ain't dangerously bad. Brakes are kinda important though. If ya can't go you can't die. If ya can't stop you just may die. So yeah, They are pretty important.
fatdaddy.

 

[trackfodder]

On considering the plunger seat, I think if I can find a bicycle lock with the long U I could thread a plastic or firm rubber tube on it for a wear surface and weld a standoff between the lock body and the sliding seatpost. It would look good and also limit the travel up. Barring that I can just fake it with some rod stock and a bit of the 50-80 lbs of magnesium chunks I have. Maybe 5/16 " allthread running through the chunk with securing nuts and also the post with a setscrew or split pin It will be a bit tricky to find the right strength spring(s) but not impossible. Strong with a bit of give beats rigid. A bit of explanation about the mag.--I worked for a corrosion control co. for 10 yrs and one customer was buying mag blocks that were about 8 x 8 x 2" and he wanted them
4x4", so we had ell shapes and straight shapes and they had no desire to sell them to a scrap dealer. Too much trouble for what they would pay so I was allowed to drag them home. Also a few 5" diam. x 5" tall ones from something. The mag was a real mess to saw. I had the bandsaw catch on fire and managed to just lose a bladewheel tire and plastic blade guard. We found an upscale woodworker's shop had a retrofit ball bearing guide set that did away with the wear blocks that were causing the mg to ignite from friction. We had no more fire problems. The lathe did catch fire once, but we put it out with fluorospar granuals.

 

[trackfodder]

I am amazed with my patience and determination. Also, being denied access to springs and nuts worked for me. I discovered the rigid fork I removed had a balloon tire caliper brake with the spreader spring that doesn't require tits to bear against to spread it. Couldn't find a spring to go between the calipers today anyhow. (+) also, couldn't buy a nut to silver solder to the frame anchor but discovered I could use an anchor from a caliper and squeeze the frame anchor with it (+) and adjust the proper angle. Then decided not to loop the cable around a chain link, but rather drill the brake pedal to receive a cable anchor from a caliper brake. (+) The shoes don't bear fully against the rim so will grind the slot a bit more to lower them. The brake effort sucks, but I think it will improve once it fully contacts and wears to conform to the rim. It squawks like the belt slipping with clutching getting under way. If I don't get what I want, I have 2 choices left. Use a mechanical go-kart caliper on the final sprocket or fire a carbide spike into the pavement with a bungee attached. MY GOD My spell check started working again !

 

[5-7HEAVEN]

HEY FATDADDY- I decided for now to re-mount the rigid and a mountain bike wheel with a 1.95" on it. The caliper will do well on the satin black chrome rim.
I am removing the dragging front fender this time and will stay with the BMX bars and goose-neck for now. Maybe I will re-discover the motorized bicycle fork. My main desire is to return to manufacturing as I have much to offer with 50 yrs experience. The Cherokee job developer lady said, "Face it, You are 77 and nobody will hire you. Market yourself as a contractor." She has a valid point. I have a retirement income from 36 yrs. as a research tech at Phillips Pet. R&D as well as SS and being 1/32 Cherokee, have IHS health care and meds (for now) and as a minority, they get a discount on payroll tax. I don't need medical, sick leave, vacation, profit sharing, etc. If they get slack or I don't fit, I can walk with no hard feelings. I suspect once I have saved or made them thousands as I have done the other places I worked, they will want to keep me. I was instrumental in winning the Malcolm Baldrige award of Excellence for Mesa Prod. in Tulsa where I was Maint Supervisor for 50 men for 10 yrs. I was actually the whole maint. dept. They went from 8.5 M to 20.7 M in the time I was there partly due to my inventions and machines I designed and built and re-designs of many of their anodes and products, I am damned good at what I do.

Hi trackfodder.

You've done very well throughout your life. Maybe you can advertise yourself as an independent contractor.

Orrr, you could do like I did. When I retired @ 55, I volunteered for the State for a couple months, then they hired me. I've been working for the government 9 years now.

Good luck. You should never be too old to work, if you want to.

 

[trackfodder]

So far my best attempts at a decent rear brake are less than good. Lotsa noise, poor performance. I checked to see where to put a mechanical go-kart caliper on the rear sprocket and the spokes are too close. About 1/2". On reviewing my other junk, I find I have a spoked 18" cycle front wheel with a disc on it and a 2.75" centrifugal rib tire. That would be the ideal place for a decent brake anyhow. The caliper can be clamped to the Cerriani leg. The 19" Hodaka wheel raises the front a mite anyway. Also have a crotch rocket front fork (cut off with a torch) with a hydraulic caliper, but I don't want to screw around finding a juice pump to work it. The ally wheel is heavier anyway. If I could afford a master, I would be fixing my 1100 Magna instead of playing with toys.

 

[trackfodder]

The beating goes on. Now I have committed to mounting a 18" rim of unknown heritage with a disk on it. I pulled the bearings out since it had a 12 mm axle and the Cerianni has a 15 mm one. Briefly got my hopes up when a hasty measurement indicated the big axle bearings were the same OD as the ones on the disk wheel. Nope-the big axle brgs. are 2 mm SMALLER OD than the others. It looks like I need to find some 1 mm shim to wrap around them. Tomorrow I will find if a cup exists to serve the purpose. I found a mechanical go-kart caliper on Ebay that will be here in a few days. If that won't do it, dunno where to go next.

 

[bigbutterbean]

Don't take this the wrong way, but for an older person, you seem to sometimes make things more complicated than they need to be. For a rear brake, you can always use a coaster. If properly serviced and maintained, they can be reliable and provide fairly decent stopping power. You still need some sort of front brake with them, but then at least you have a rear brake that doesn't have to be jerry-rigged. For a front brake, a drum will work well. With the wheel you are currently trying to mount, if it is much smaller than the rear wheel, it will adversely affect your handling unless you have forks with enough rake to compensate. Also, I'd recommend using the proper size bearings, especially on a wheel. Sometimes people will use smaller or larger bearings on a fork, but that is not as dangerous as using the wrong size bearings on a wheel (unless I missed something and you are actually referring to the headset bearings, in which case I apologize). But using the wrong size bearings in a hub is not a good idea. I wouldn't want to know what happens if bearings fail in a front wheel.

 

[trackfodder]

The rear coaster brake was a new unit in a Worksman industrial bicycle. It has never been satisfactory. As for the front, I have a Cerianni fork that uses a 15 mm axle. The wheel bearings are 2 mm smaller in diameter than the 12 mm bearings that are in the wheel with the disk. As for geometry, when I mounted the Hodaka 19" wheel i raised the front end. The 18" is a step in the right direction. it handles hands-off just fine with either a 26" bike wheel (level footrest) or with the 19" (elevated) The mechanical caliper is a simple device origionally made by Airhart for home-built airplanes and I used several of them on wire winders I built for a corrosion control co. I worked for 10 yrs. They stopped 1000 lb spools of wire in less than 1 revolution on a 6" disk. I am quite familiar with them. I now need to wrap 1 mm. shims in the brg. holes and should work well. I can sand 0.003 from 18 ga. ally to achieve 1 mm. I might go into the rear coaster to see if it has any redeeming qualities. The caliper there is an improvement.

 

[bigbutterbean]

I know what you mean about coaster brakes not working well. I've used several huffy wheels with less than adequate stopping power. I recently installed a Shimano coaster brake in a huffy wheel, and its a significant improvement. As soon as I begin to pedal backward, I can feel the shoes start to grab. I also run a Worksman front drum, and use the front more often than the rear, but its still good to have a decent rear brake. As far as the wheel with the disc, did you lose the bearings that came with it? I'm having trouble understanding why you can't use the proper size bearings.

 

[trackfodder]

The bearings that came with it fit a 12 mm axle. The fork has a 15 mm axle. The brgs in the disk brake wheel were locked up anyhow and were 2 mm bigger OD than the ones from the Hodaka wheel. Therefore I just got through cutting strips from 18 ga. ally, which is SUPPOSED to be .0403 but is just a tiny bit shy of .0400 so it is OK. The brgs have a good home. I am currently preparing to use a boring bar on the lathe to remove a tiny bit from the ID of the seal that fits the disk wheel to receive the OD of the seal from the Hodaka I scooped out all the rubber, leaving a nice cup.