Hey Deac, so how is the new welder working out for you? Takes some practice but most of all make sure the surfeace is clean and if you grind off some of the mill scale you'll get a better contact. Don't worry about tumors, you can always clean them later. Better to have to much then too little.
Deacon's DIY Electric Bike Forum!
- Thread starter Bikeguy Joe
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deacon
minor bike philosopher
I promised I would show the finished product so here is the bike that I built to help with my weight control. I have only ridden it up and down the driveway with no power so far but it does fine balance wise.
The motor is 350 watts... the drive is a coaster brake hub run by a bike chain to the motor. I have jbweld and sand on it. I had to weld the sprocket onto the motor but it seems to be okay. I did test it with some old batteries and it didn't fly apart.
The rack on the rear is for the batteries. The total additional weight will be about twenty pounds. Considering I weighed fifty pounds more when I started the bike riding, it is still light.
The batteries on the way are twelve amp hour. If I ran the bike wide open they would run 34 minutes. By being battery conscious and with the freewheel hub I should be able to stretch that some. I have no idea what the speed will be I'll have to come back and let you know.
I have a two speed switch on the handle bars. 12 volt on one leg 24 on the other and of course off. So I have pedal only, I have 12 volt helper 1/2 throttle and 24 volt helper full throttle.
Shoes is going to make a custom cover for the batteries. So there should be one more picture when it is all together.
The motor is 350 watts... the drive is a coaster brake hub run by a bike chain to the motor. I have jbweld and sand on it. I had to weld the sprocket onto the motor but it seems to be okay. I did test it with some old batteries and it didn't fly apart.
The rack on the rear is for the batteries. The total additional weight will be about twenty pounds. Considering I weighed fifty pounds more when I started the bike riding, it is still light.
The batteries on the way are twelve amp hour. If I ran the bike wide open they would run 34 minutes. By being battery conscious and with the freewheel hub I should be able to stretch that some. I have no idea what the speed will be I'll have to come back and let you know.
I have a two speed switch on the handle bars. 12 volt on one leg 24 on the other and of course off. So I have pedal only, I have 12 volt helper 1/2 throttle and 24 volt helper full throttle.
Shoes is going to make a custom cover for the batteries. So there should be one more picture when it is all together.
deacon
minor bike philosopher
It has constant tension because the roller freewheels when the motor isnt turning. the motot assemble is on those hinges so I just tighten them down. and dont lift them
deacon
minor bike philosopher
That should be darn well enough at 24 volts, I hope.
A nice minimalist application.
The bigger wheel in front is a nice hungry look!
The small back wheel, besides being easy to mount the bike, should make the balance batter with the battery pack over it. The whole bike should have the same approximate height. I hope that will keep the bike from being top heavy.
Deacon, will this site help? I found it the other day and got excited that I could get the parts for a 600w proj for less than 400.00. Chinese scooter parts, wholesale scooter parts, ATV parts, dirt bike parts, 2 and 4-stroke engine parts, motorcycle parts,
deacon
minor bike philosopher
I have their site already. I also have one from the guy on ebay who might be a little cheaper.
My welding on the sprocket proved to be below that necessary to hold up but...
I found out something to make the building of an ebike much easier. The scooter motor comes with a #25 sprocket. It seems as if you get a bit of #25 chain you can use it to hook it to the bike sprocket on the coaster hub as I have done. That way it is a simple bolt up proceedure, not requiring any welding at all.
Caution I have not tested this fully since it is too cold to ride but it works in the shop so I expect that it will work on the road course. However that remains to be seen. I had a spare motor with that sprocket so the change over wasn't too bad. I'll have to let you know how it works out.
the cost for the project should have been, if I had known about the sprocket...
one motor less than 30 bucks
one rear hub from a child's thrift store bike 8bucks for the bike.
one #25 chain probably 13 bucks
two white electrical extension cords about 3 bucks for both
two 12 amp hour batteries 60 bucks
I had the bike so I'm not counting it. it was already in that strange configuration so if you wanted that kind you would also need a second child's bike for the rear wheel and the crank set.
It comes in at roughly a hundred bucks more or less....
After I wrote this I realized I had to build the frame and buy the three way switch so probably $125 is closer to the cost of doing one plus the cost of the bike/
Also noteworthy is that this is intentionally a low performance build. It is to help me keep control of my weight and to keep the bike rehab benefits while making it possible for me to climb hills. If I lived at the beach a plain old bike would work as well.
My welding on the sprocket proved to be below that necessary to hold up but...
I found out something to make the building of an ebike much easier. The scooter motor comes with a #25 sprocket. It seems as if you get a bit of #25 chain you can use it to hook it to the bike sprocket on the coaster hub as I have done. That way it is a simple bolt up proceedure, not requiring any welding at all.
Caution I have not tested this fully since it is too cold to ride but it works in the shop so I expect that it will work on the road course. However that remains to be seen. I had a spare motor with that sprocket so the change over wasn't too bad. I'll have to let you know how it works out.
the cost for the project should have been, if I had known about the sprocket...
one motor less than 30 bucks
one rear hub from a child's thrift store bike 8bucks for the bike.
one #25 chain probably 13 bucks
two white electrical extension cords about 3 bucks for both
two 12 amp hour batteries 60 bucks
I had the bike so I'm not counting it. it was already in that strange configuration so if you wanted that kind you would also need a second child's bike for the rear wheel and the crank set.
It comes in at roughly a hundred bucks more or less....
After I wrote this I realized I had to build the frame and buy the three way switch so probably $125 is closer to the cost of doing one plus the cost of the bike/
Also noteworthy is that this is intentionally a low performance build. It is to help me keep control of my weight and to keep the bike rehab benefits while making it possible for me to climb hills. If I lived at the beach a plain old bike would work as well.
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deacon
minor bike philosopher
I guess it's true you have to fail a few times before you can succeed. This one was a bummer. Oh it worked just as it was supposed to, but it just didn't have enough power to make a difference in the pedaling of the bike.
The same motor did when it was a direct drive. I guess the gearing cut the power to the wheel more than I thought.
I'm even doing more now. I attached the sprocket BG joe gave me to the front wheel. I am going to hook the electric motor over it and see what happens. I have the 11 tooth bike chain sprocket on the motor but I have no idea how it will work. But you guys will know when I do.
If this doesn't work I will be back to direct drive from the motor. See what that does.
The same motor did when it was a direct drive. I guess the gearing cut the power to the wheel more than I thought.
I'm even doing more now. I attached the sprocket BG joe gave me to the front wheel. I am going to hook the electric motor over it and see what happens. I have the 11 tooth bike chain sprocket on the motor but I have no idea how it will work. But you guys will know when I do.
If this doesn't work I will be back to direct drive from the motor. See what that does.
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deacon
minor bike philosopher
I got the donated (thanks BGJoe) sprocket on and the motor setup for the bike sprocket. I even got them aligned. It took a while but they tested pretty darn good. I need a tensioner but that's it otherwise it works fine. I tested it on the driveway since without a tensioner I expect the chain to pop off any minute. It does pull me. I can't tell what if any speed it will do my driveway is too short. Of course it is going to rain any minute so I can't do any more tests today.
http://i33.tinypic.com/20h0yu8.jpg
http://i33.tinypic.com/20h0yu8.jpg
deacon
minor bike philosopher
Shoes is making me a customer battery bag for the rear I can hardly wait. I will still use the bungee cords but at least the batteries will be covered. I' looking forward to giving this bike a try. Just as soon as I devise a chair guide/tensioner. I'm thinking wooden dowel on a bolt through the fork or though the brace holding the engine in place.
deacon
minor bike philosopher
I rained hard today so no ride, but yesterday I went back to plan a. It was my own fault. The chain drive wont work because I welded the sprocket on the motor a slight bit cattywhampus. the chain starts to move about wildly and finally comes off. I went back to that short chain friction drive. The gearing is much closer to one to one so It might just work out better.
As always, i'll let you know.
On the 25 chain note shoes suggested I use shake board bearings to make a drive wheel with a small 25 sprocket. I have bought four used skateboard wheels from ebay and when they arrive I will try to make a smaller drive unit.
I chose to go with the complete wheels so i wouldn't have to make a mount for the bearings. I just use the wheel as the mount.
As always, i'll let you know.
On the 25 chain note shoes suggested I use shake board bearings to make a drive wheel with a small 25 sprocket. I have bought four used skateboard wheels from ebay and when they arrive I will try to make a smaller drive unit.
I chose to go with the complete wheels so i wouldn't have to make a mount for the bearings. I just use the wheel as the mount.
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deacon
minor bike philosopher
I got out to do the test ride today.
The bike is very slow compared to other bikes I have built but it does exactly what i wanted it to do. It will pull at about five to ten miles an hour. I can pedal it with the engine off very easily and when I need to rest or to get some help on the hills it will do that as well.
It is going to take some getting used to but I think I will lke it.
I ended up with the plan a configuration. Friction drive using a rear coaster hub.
This one more or less... I will post a picture of the finished bike when I get the fancy battery cover from Shoes....
The bike is very slow compared to other bikes I have built but it does exactly what i wanted it to do. It will pull at about five to ten miles an hour. I can pedal it with the engine off very easily and when I need to rest or to get some help on the hills it will do that as well.
It is going to take some getting used to but I think I will lke it.
I ended up with the plan a configuration. Friction drive using a rear coaster hub.
This one more or less... I will post a picture of the finished bike when I get the fancy battery cover from Shoes....
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deacon
minor bike philosopher
The friction drive didn't have enough speed to get up the next hill so I switched back to the chain drive. I got it working enough to go a half block and know that it is the way to go. I need to redo the sprocket on the motor to get a better one on. I'll let you guys know. im sorta back to this configuration
deacon
minor bike philosopher
two 12 volt batteries in series and yes they are on the back. I have the cover from shoes I just cant get it to stop raining so I can make a decent picture of it.
I moved BGJ0es sprocket to the rear of a different bike and this time the bike frame is in the way of the chain. Im not sure that will ever work. I decided to get the friction drive right before I tackle it again.
I moved BGJ0es sprocket to the rear of a different bike and this time the bike frame is in the way of the chain. Im not sure that will ever work. I decided to get the friction drive right before I tackle it again.
I'm grateful for your work Deacon.
Yeah, you once posted you would never pay what someone else might, for a Whizzer, and I posted that I would not ride something that looked like your stuff.
Differences in monetary values and styles aside, I very much agree with what you are doing. Sometimes I see a flawed concept, and sometimes I'm in awe at how far ahead you are.
This latest electric permutation has the right feel. Go for it, fail a hundred times and keep breaking ground for the rest of us at the same time.
Babe Ruth was also one of the biggest "strikeouts" in his day.
The chain will eat some power, but it also can carry some inertia. I don't know exactly what that means to you and me and aussie jester and all the other sparky types. Is it the plane of centrifugal force I'm thinking about? The vector?
What the heck is buggin my brain about that idea?
Yeah, you once posted you would never pay what someone else might, for a Whizzer, and I posted that I would not ride something that looked like your stuff.
Differences in monetary values and styles aside, I very much agree with what you are doing. Sometimes I see a flawed concept, and sometimes I'm in awe at how far ahead you are.
This latest electric permutation has the right feel. Go for it, fail a hundred times and keep breaking ground for the rest of us at the same time.
Babe Ruth was also one of the biggest "strikeouts" in his day.
The chain will eat some power, but it also can carry some inertia. I don't know exactly what that means to you and me and aussie jester and all the other sparky types. Is it the plane of centrifugal force I'm thinking about? The vector?
What the heck is buggin my brain about that idea?
deacon
minor bike philosopher
I have come up with what I hope is a good next plan. First of all back to friction where I can handle the chain run and other factors more easily.
I have a 22 tooth rear coaster wheel sprocket attached to a motor. This is purely a concept bike.
On the drive axle I will have an eleven tooth sprocket, Which is about and inch and a half in diameter. Less than half the size of the motor sprocket. The drive wheel is three plastic caster wheels attached to each other with jb weld. The bearing for the drive wheel axle is going to be two skateboard wheels attached to the frame. Everything will be held together with jam nuts like on a bike wheel. The drive axle will turn through the skateboard wheels making use of their bearings.
Chain tension is managed through a two part motor mount. The motor is on a platform and the drive axle is on a different one. They are attached in a upside down V configuration. ALL the pressure and torque should be tightening the chain not loosening it.
I'm using my funky test bikes on it.
The plan is that the larger wheel on the motor will make up for the loss of energy in the chain drive. With a little luck it will deliver a similar number of rpms to the drive wheel as it would in a straight run.
Once the motor drive combination is working, I am thinking of getting a mountain bike to put it on. A mountain bike's gearing would allow me to help the motor at a higher speed threshold and hopefully make the experience easier.
Now why I am doing this over and over. My wife and I were talking about this last night. Other than I'm crazy obsessed not to be beater by a piece of metal, I have a plan.
I want to design a bike that a retired person who is reasonably fit could ride to the grocery store. Most of you know that there are retirement housing areas for seniors. Lots of them don't get enough exercise, and many have lost their mobility because a car no longer makes sense.
The weed whacker bike was my first foray into smaller bikes. I had a lot of fun with it but at the end I realized that for ME as well as anyone in a similar situation it would not be realistic. Too many nic picky issues arrive with so complicated a bike. I'm not saying this is purely a humanitarian thing. I want that kind of bike for myself.
When I finish I will hopefully have a bike I can ride five miles with a minimum of effort and then be able to ride home again. Five miles will get me anywhere I need to go on a regular basis. Also it will get me some exercise since the motor will only be a helper motor not a drive engine. If I can get to home depot on my bike with a minimum amount of effort I am more like to go there on my on. That gives me independence and keeps me mobile. My two goals are met.
I think I have the basic design down, Now it is just check the components.
And oh yes I do fail a lot on this silly projects, but I pass a lot of time I would otherwise be filling with fast women and slow horses. I know that is a fantasy these days.
I have a 22 tooth rear coaster wheel sprocket attached to a motor. This is purely a concept bike.
On the drive axle I will have an eleven tooth sprocket, Which is about and inch and a half in diameter. Less than half the size of the motor sprocket. The drive wheel is three plastic caster wheels attached to each other with jb weld. The bearing for the drive wheel axle is going to be two skateboard wheels attached to the frame. Everything will be held together with jam nuts like on a bike wheel. The drive axle will turn through the skateboard wheels making use of their bearings.
Chain tension is managed through a two part motor mount. The motor is on a platform and the drive axle is on a different one. They are attached in a upside down V configuration. ALL the pressure and torque should be tightening the chain not loosening it.
I'm using my funky test bikes on it.
The plan is that the larger wheel on the motor will make up for the loss of energy in the chain drive. With a little luck it will deliver a similar number of rpms to the drive wheel as it would in a straight run.
Once the motor drive combination is working, I am thinking of getting a mountain bike to put it on. A mountain bike's gearing would allow me to help the motor at a higher speed threshold and hopefully make the experience easier.
Now why I am doing this over and over. My wife and I were talking about this last night. Other than I'm crazy obsessed not to be beater by a piece of metal, I have a plan.
I want to design a bike that a retired person who is reasonably fit could ride to the grocery store. Most of you know that there are retirement housing areas for seniors. Lots of them don't get enough exercise, and many have lost their mobility because a car no longer makes sense.
The weed whacker bike was my first foray into smaller bikes. I had a lot of fun with it but at the end I realized that for ME as well as anyone in a similar situation it would not be realistic. Too many nic picky issues arrive with so complicated a bike. I'm not saying this is purely a humanitarian thing. I want that kind of bike for myself.
When I finish I will hopefully have a bike I can ride five miles with a minimum of effort and then be able to ride home again. Five miles will get me anywhere I need to go on a regular basis. Also it will get me some exercise since the motor will only be a helper motor not a drive engine. If I can get to home depot on my bike with a minimum amount of effort I am more like to go there on my on. That gives me independence and keeps me mobile. My two goals are met.
I think I have the basic design down, Now it is just check the components.
And oh yes I do fail a lot on this silly projects, but I pass a lot of time I would otherwise be filling with fast women and slow horses. I know that is a fantasy these days.
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