custom exhaust

pwrobleski

pwrobleski

New Member
I'm want to make a custom exhaust that utilizes the original muffler and flange. What type of metal tube or pipe should I use for the piping? I gonna take it by a muffler shop and have them custom bend it to where I want to route it. Then I'm gonna take it to a place and have it powder coated. So whats the best material and thickness of the sidewall for my application?

.flg.
 
Um... might be better off at an "Industrial Metal Supply" or a general welding shop - even plumbing perhaps. I doubt yer average exhaust shop has the tooling for bending such a small diameter. I'm pretty sure powder coating won't last on such a high heat application either.

All is not lost however - the gauge yer talkin about is pretty easy to bend, just gotta pack it with sand and cap both ends (welded) and you should be able to bend it yourself. The sand is to keep it from kinking - and the exaust shop would have the same problem, with the larger pipe it caves in the side a bit even with their benders - they just don't care with that "large" a pipe.

And ofc any high-temp rattlecan paint will look sweet :)


Yet - have you checked out this: Sick Bike Parts tuned exhaust? Not only will it give ya the length yer after - you get a pronounced power boost as well...

Just a thought ;)
 

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BarelyAWake said:
Um... might be better off at an "Industrial Metal Supply" or a general welding shop - even plumbing perhaps. I doubt yer average exhaust shop has the tooling for bending such a small diameter. I'm pretty sure powder coating won't last on such a high heat application either.

All is not lost however - the gauge yer talkin about is pretty easy to bend, just gotta pack it with sand and cap both ends (welded) and you should be able to bend it yourself. The sand is to keep it from kinking - and the exaust shop would have the same problem, with the larger pipe it caves in the side a bit even with their benders - they just don't care with that "large" a pipe.

And ofc any high-temp rattlecan paint will look sweet :)


Yet - have you checked out this: Sick Bike Parts tuned exhaust? Not only will it give ya the length yer after - you get a pronounced power boost as well...

Just a thought ;)
Click to expand...

Do you think in even kink with a mandrel bender? And what typed of piping would you suggest? And gauge? Would reg steel conduint work, black iron pipe, stainless, not sure which one i want to use. I use to make custom conviers so I have knowledge for material. Just not much for making a exhaust, lol



.flg.
 
BarelyAWake said:
Um... might be better off at an "Industrial Metal Supply" or a general welding shop - even plumbing perhaps. I doubt yer average exhaust shop has the tooling for bending such a small diameter. I'm pretty sure powder coating won't last on such a high heat application either.

All is not lost however - the gauge yer talkin about is pretty easy to bend, just gotta pack it with sand and cap both ends (welded) and you should be able to bend it yourself. The sand is to keep it from kinking - and the exaust shop would have the same problem, with the larger pipe it caves in the side a bit even with their benders - they just don't care with that "large" a pipe.

And ofc any high-temp rattlecan paint will look sweet :)


Yet - have you checked out this: Sick Bike Parts tuned exhaust? Not only will it give ya the length yer after - you get a pronounced power boost as well...

Just a thought ;)
Click to expand...

With the exhaust from sbp, whats the use for the 2 springs- do you know? lol
 
Most exhaust is mild steel stock, I'm sorry but I've no idea the wall thickness - me and numbers lol :p However - mild steel of that size is fairly simple to bend yourself. Any two points of contact and leverage will do it, best if you can find a round surface - but just about anything will do. People 'round here have used conduit with success - I've just not messed w/it myself.

Lotsa lil bends to make a big or sharp bend, that's all there really is to it if you haven't a proper tubing bender. If yer going with stainless tho it's another matter - that stuff is rugged and somewhat brittle/prone to cracking from bending abuse. I personally think stainless is great - but maybe not worth it for the do-it-yerself... maybe not for this application either - I'd just make another if I needed to. It's all up to the builder tho ;)

I'd still go with a tuned exhaust, even a custom job - over a regular pipe & can. It's just too much a response to overlook - the 2 stroke begs for 'em lol

The two springs on the SBP's pipe are because it's a flexible joint. Common to see on other "small" 2 stroke vehicles like snowmobiles and ultralights, it helps reduce metal fatigue due to vibration and torque flex. It is usually a ball & socket joint, the SBP's one also gives more options for mounting orientation.

There's a buncha sweet expansion chambers out there and a few different styles, I do favor the SBP one obviously :D
 
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BarelyAWake said:
Most exhaust is mild steel stock, I'm sorry but I've no idea the wall thickness - me and numbers lol :p However - mild steel of that size is fairly simple to bend yourself. Any two points of contact and leverage will do it, best if you can find a round surface - but just about anything will do. People 'round here have used conduit with success - I've just not messed w/it myself.

Lotsa lil bends to make a big or sharp bend, that's all there really is to it if you haven't a proper tubing bender. If yer going with stainless tho it's another matter - that stuff is rugged and somewhat brittle/prone to cracking from bending abuse. I personally think stainless is great - but maybe not worth it for the do-it-yerself... maybe not for this application either - I'd just make another if I needed to. It's all up to the builder tho ;)

I'd still go with a tuned exhaust, even a custom job - over a regular pipe & can. It's just too much a response to overlook - the 2 stroke begs for 'em lol

The two springs on the SBP's pipe are because it's a flexible joint. Common to see on other "small" 2 stroke vehicles like snowmobiles and ultralights, it helps reduce metal fatigue due to vibration and torque flex. It is usually a ball & socket joint, the SBP's one also gives more options for mounting orientation.

There's a buncha sweet expansion chambers out there and a few different styles, I do favor the SBP one obviously :D
Click to expand...

Thanks for the info barelyawake, it helped me out alot

.flg.
 
1/2" and 3/4" EMT (steel electrical conduit) works great. Benders are cheap and once you get the knack of getting the bend where you want it you can do almost anything as far as an exhaust system goes. The bend radius is a little longer than I'd like but with some practice you can reduce the radius by moving the pipe in the bender as you go. There's no need for sand or heat. An added plus is if you use new conduit the galvanized coating will take a nice shine with a little work on the buffing wheel and some compound. Napa sells a silver high temp engine rattle can paint that will withstand the exhaust heat even right at the cylinder/flange.
Here's a couple of pipes to give you an idea of what's possible.
Tom
 

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2door said:
1/2" and 3/4" EMT (steel electrical conduit) works great. Benders are cheap and once you get the knack of getting the bend where you want it you can do almost anything as far as an exhaust system goes. The bend radius is a little longer than I'd like but with some practice you can reduce the radius by moving the pipe in the bender as you go. There's no need for sand or heat. An added plus is if you use new conduit the galvanized coating will take a nice shine with a little work on the buffing wheel and some compound. Napa sells a silver high temp engine rattle can paint that will withstand the exhaust heat even right at the cylinder/flange.
Here's a couple of pipes to give you an idea of what's possible.
Tom
Click to expand...

hey thanks 2Door, Do u ow if they carry that high temp paint in a flat or satin blk?


.flg.
 
pwrobleski said:
hey thanks 2Door, Do u ow if they carry that high temp paint in a flat or satin blk?


.flg.
Click to expand...
pwrobleski,
Can't say what colors/textures it comes in. Here's what the can looks like.
Tom
 

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2door said:
1/2" and 3/4" EMT (steel electrical conduit) works great. Benders are cheap and once you get the knack of getting the bend where you want it you can do almost anything as far as an exhaust system goes. The bend radius is a little longer than I'd like but with some practice you can reduce the radius by moving the pipe in the bender as you go. There's no need for sand or heat. An added plus is if you use new conduit the galvanized coating will take a nice shine with a little work on the buffing wheel and some compound. Napa sells a silver high temp engine rattle can paint that will withstand the exhaust heat even right at the cylinder/flange.
Here's a couple of pipes to give you an idea of what's possible.
Tom
Click to expand...

There is a thing called a hickey bender for conduit that can make a tighter radius bend. Also if you have a wood lathe you can make a wood wheel with a groove the same radius as your pipe and make the bend radius to suit. Lindsay's Technical Books has a book on making a bender like this. Cheap price too. Ihave seen headers on hot rods with a chrome type powder coat that worked well.
Elmo
 
I USED COPPER TUBING FROM ACE HARDWARE IT HAS WORKED JUST FINE ONLY THING I HAVE
NOTICED IS THAT IT HAS BENT TENT JUST A LITTLE SO NOW ON SIDE HAS THE INDENT OF MY BIKE TUBE AND THE OTHER SIDE OF HAS THE INDENT OF WHERE MY PEDLE HIT IT BUT OTHER THAN THAT IT WORKS JUST FINE>.shft.
 
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