currie motors

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deacon

deacon

minor bike philosopher
Jan 15, 2008
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Yes sir thats it.

You can use either red wire for the red wire on the motor and the other for the red wire on the battery..... then the black wire is for the battery and the green is the ground for the motor. The three small wires are for the throttle . It is idiot proof, which I have to have personally. If you want a kill switch, put it on either of the red wires before you connect them to the battery or the motor. If you want a key switch you could put it on the other red wire and then you would have the bike just like the high priced spread.

You don't have an electric brake cut out, but I never needed one.



On the ebay one it probably is this way.... The three small wire red black and green are for a three wire throttle which most are. If you get a four wire just match the colors and leave the yellow wire on the throttle disconnected It is for a battery indicator which most inexpensive throttles dont have..

The thick black and red wires (part of that five wire clip) are your battery leads. The rest of the little wires are probably for lights or something like it. The small black and yellow two wire set will be for an electric brake cut out. Totally useless to me.

Now for the blue and yellow wires this is where it gets a little tricky they go to the motor. If you hook them up and the motor runs the wrong way, just switch them. no harm no foul. If you hook the battery leads up backwards you can blow the controller. so don't do that.

I hook my wires up directly without the plugs. mostly because the motor far outlast any controller I ever had. Good luck...
 
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george_n_texas

george_n_texas

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Sep 4, 2009
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I know this is likely to sound dumb but why can't ya just hook 2 car batteries in series to get 24 volts thru a potentiometer (like a volume control but rated at more amps) I just bought a 24 volt 250 watt curry motor for like $50 with shipping thought I'd go with the smallest car batteries and get a pot rated for the amps plus some.
amps equal watts divided by volts....little over 10 amps so a 15-20 amp rating should work. throw in a 20 amp fuse for safety.
 
deacon

deacon

minor bike philosopher
Jan 15, 2008
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okay car batteries are constructed differently but they will work, just not as well. They are also big and clumsy. Very hard to carry on the bike. Also they are pretty expensive unless you have a source for used ones.

you don't need a controller you can go with an on off switch. You don't even need a pot. If you can find a pot that will work you are fine, I never could but that doesn't mean that there isn't one out there that will work, I just never found one.

You are probably going to need a bigger fuse than 20amps. My motors all pull more than their max maps (if I don't use a controller) on long or very steep hills. I think the listed amps on the motor is probably meant as this is all you can use without overheating the motor. Heat kills the motor eventually.

Except for the prevention of over drawing of amps, I found the on off switch perfectly acceptable. If I lived at the beach or on a great flat prairie somewhere, I wouldn't bother with a controller either.
 
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george_n_texas

george_n_texas

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Sep 4, 2009
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Thanks man that answers alot I'm kinda thinkin about getting a front tire rack and mounting the motor there adding a sprocket to the front tire. Maybe use a rag joint. I sure wish I knew where to source this stuff locally you'd think you could in Dallas.
 
deacon

deacon

minor bike philosopher
Jan 15, 2008
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north carolina
Honest I never had much luck with front wheel drive with an emotor. But again that's just me. My motors all hang over the side like a tumor. You would need to mount yours across the top of the wheel to evenly distribute the weight. The weight on that off balance front wheel made steering a nightmare for me. It did seem to run okay though. I tried it with a sprocket and rag thing but I couldn't keep the darn chain on.

You might want to consider this. The motor comes with a number #25 sprocket. You can buy lots of different sizes of #25 sprockets from TNC scooter, I bought 25' of that chain on ebay for not too much money,.You could always drill your own holes in the sprocket based on the rag holder's holes. Just something to think about.
 
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professor

professor

New Member
Oct 14, 2009
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Buffalo ny area
Thought I would add my 2 cents on this post. I pulled off all the chain/jackshaft/idler stuff from my home made e-bike (using a unite scooter motor) and going to v-belt drive. Will be ordering a belt (63" 3/8 wide) from McMaster Carr. They are great to deal with if you do credit card. I have the stuff sent to work.
I am ordering a pulley for the 250 watt motor too, it has a 5/16 shaft and hoping a 2 inch pulley will work OK.
I made a big pulley on the wheel out of a 20 inch bike rim. I am certain that there will be totally less parasite drag on the system with a belt than what I was using. Pedaling the chain drive rig was a real eye opener- like dragging another bike behind me. No wonder it had no range!
Will do a post on the whole deal shortly.
 
deacon

deacon

minor bike philosopher
Jan 15, 2008
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I for one look forward to that since I have never seen anyone make a belt drive diy. It will be a pleasure to follow your build.

You know that might be a really good build for a friction drive rhino type. Get the wheel and the belt drive system and mount the whole thing on top of the rear wheel. Oh well I'll follow your build since my wife told me no more new builds.
 
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george_n_texas

george_n_texas

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Sep 4, 2009
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All good info saved me tons of greif I'm sure I wonder if you could incorporate a tensioner and pulleys off a car's timing belt...lot's of grip space doubt it would slip....I am also leaning towards a push setup with one of those trainer bike hitches and mount batteries on the trainer bike.
 
deacon

deacon

minor bike philosopher
Jan 15, 2008
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several of us have built pushers. Mine was on a bobtail trailer hooked ot each side of the bike like a third inline wheel. It worked really well. It was just too long for the shop. The bobtail was an almost self contained unit. The wires for the throttle were the only things that had to be on the bike.

Also with the same setup I run on the rhino but behind with a 16" bike wheel it was just as fast at 24v as this is at 36
 
corgi1

corgi1

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Aug 13, 2009
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Ok ,question,,,,If I have a 24 volt motor from one of these razor scooter type things and 3-12 volt batterys can I run three switches at the handle bar for 12 v,,,24 v,,,36 v as a varible speeds for the bike ,or will this burn the motor up?,,,,,,,,,,,,I think friction drive makes sense for ease of build.,,,,,On the scootrer thats donating the hand throtle would not engage the motor so i removed the controler and hooked the motor through the on/off switch ,its a little hard getting on but it goes w/the 24 v batt.,so I'm thinking faster top speed on a bike w/36 volts and I read early on 12 v would be 1/2 speed
 
deacon

deacon

minor bike philosopher
Jan 15, 2008
8,114
9
0
north carolina
yes you need a switch or switches for each power setting but here is the rub. You have to wire the battery pack in series the get to the max voltage you can't wire just one switch to each motor individually and get 36v because if you did it would be a parallel circuit. Somewhere on this forum there is a wiring diagram for that configuration. I did it once. It was a little too complicated to be honest. Plus that 24 and 36v on off switch has to take some current so it has to be able to stand it. Be sure to use fuses because when those switches burn up they make a straight connection to the battery and you are in for a wild ride.

The thirty six I wired through a heavy duty relay to prevent that from happening. Man did that thing blow the circuit breaker That probably saved my butt.

To be perfectly honest it is cheaper to buy a controller. I am not a big fan of technology but for pure ease and expense a controller in the end is the way to go. With a controller and throttle you are going to have about fifty extra bucks in it.

But you want have a dozen switches before you find one that will work. And you won't have spent weeks trying to figure out how to coordinate all that switch throwing. Trust me it is a mutha to learn how to get those switches going just right.
 
professor

professor

New Member
Oct 14, 2009
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Buffalo ny area
Deacon- I don't see any advantage for your Rhino drive in using a belt. The advantage (if it turns out OK) is I get rid of the jackshaft and idlers and one transmission device (a chain) in favor of one transmission belt.
The only issue I wonder about, is if the gear ratio will be too high- guess I can pedal more, in that case.
 
deacon

deacon

minor bike philosopher
Jan 15, 2008
8,114
9
0
north carolina
with the rhino the higher the pedal ratio the better. It allows me to keep the speed up on the hills. With the lower ratio pedal setup, I can't assist until the bike is almost stalled. The freewheel won't catch.
 
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