completed chainsaw bike!!!

asel.mike

asel.mike

New Member
Hey guys, im michael asel from katy, texas
i did my research and decided to build a friction drive, mostly because of decon's sucess with them and their lack of points of failure
so i fabbed up a mount out of an old realtor's for sale sign (grandma is a realtor)
next i used some scrap plate to build a motor mount
there's two mounts. the first is attached to the original bar mount (this is a bomb proof mount in my humble opinion)
the weight of the engine and the shocks of riding bent this mount a tiny bit so i added an upper mount for support that threads into the aluminum head case
the spindle is a 1/2" schedule 40 pipe welded to the shaft. around that is a 3/4" schedule 40 pipe ( i added this to make the spindle bigger)
I took it out today on a six mile maiden voyage to my girlfriend's house and it rocked!!! it worked so well
i cruised at what i estimate to be 25 mph no problem.
but thats about it
take a look
criticisms, comments, opinions, and praise will be gracefully accepted
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xct2
 
Great build! My only concern is the drive roller is quite a ways out there and appears unsupported on the end opposite the engine. I imagine it gonna be hard on the crank like that. Maybe you could center and weld in a stub shaft of 1/2" dia., then add a pillow bearing to support it. Might be fine as it is, who knows. Just something to think about. I like it though, youre gonna have fun with it!
 
Those chainsaw drive shafts are the weak point on all that I ever used. But who knows. The other alternative is to support the motor, so that it isn't hanging on the wheel by the drive roller. but the drive is just resting on it and the motor is supported from underneath. That might work as well.

rather than the spring under the motor side, you could put a solid bar there with just a little tension on the motor from the off side spring. Just a thought. I have no idea what I'm talking about most of the time. sometimes I think the best use of the spring is just to keep the motor from bouncing up and down and not to apply tension at all. The weight of the Ebike motor is all it needs.

Also true is that the shorter the roller the better it seems to 'feel' whatever that means.
 
thanks for the feedback guys, i really appreciate it
im not all that concerned about the drive shaft cause the way i sleeved it, it's welded as close to the motor as possible. i might add a bearing on the other side or eleminate the springs.
i think its gonna be the weak point of the bike


Got a question for ya'll though. what would you think of a steel paint thinner bottle for a gas tank?
if yall think no on that what do you recommend for a easy and cheap tank cause the chainsaw tank is pretty little
 
asel.mike said:
thanks for the feedback guys, i really appreciate it
im not all that concerned about the drive shaft cause the way i sleeved it, it's welded as close to the motor as possible. i might add a bearing on the other side or eleminate the springs.
i think its gonna be the weak point of the bike


Got a question for ya'll though. what would you think of a steel paint thinner bottle for a gas tank?
if yall think no on that what do you recommend for a easy and cheap tank cause the chainsaw tank is pretty little
Click to expand...

Man, there is a ton and I mean a ton of really cool DIY tanks posted here. Any container would work. If what is made of is not gas resistant, could seal it. I have a Nestea plastic bottle sealed with Kreem. The sky and imagination is the limit.

Just a crazy Idea, as your engine and mount have that cool 1950's sort of look, find a kids lunch box from that era? (I said it was crazy) Would sorta look like you were carrying it. Given what you have already done, am really looking forward to seeing what you end up doing.
 
if your carb is a two line, a plastic coke bottle any size with two holes in the hard cap worked for me. Also a plastic canteen. Metal might be a bit hard on the plastic gas line would be my only concern,
 
cannonball2 said:
Yeah, a Superman lunch box with a hidden fuel tank!
Click to expand...

Har, lol Cannon. My morning gig is driving a truck for meals on wheels. (more stipend volunteer) I have to carry a GPS, and some odd, small stuff. Carol bought me a Spiderman lunch box.

Dang, now it might end up a fuel tank.

(I had asked for Batman. 'cause he is the coolest super hero ever! Don't need super powers. Just a utility belt, a side kick( (they are just good friends)) and a really cool car!)
 

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oh lord. now i need to find a lunchbox. thanks alot guys hahahahaha thats a really neat idea

the creative juices are flowing now!
 
Couple of thoughts. FDs are kinda dirty, you might want to put a piece of filter foam in the missing air filter. Running the .75" roll through the calulator it shows 20mph@9000rpm. Maybe a piece of 3/4" heater hose would fit over the pipe with enough grip to drive, that would get you into the 1" area and 20.8mph@7000rpm. Be easier on the little Homey.
 
That pipe is so long, I would cut the thread off a tire. Gorilla glue it to the drive the secure it with a couple of hose clamps away from the tire. just a thought.

Fiberglass screen wire held in place by a piece of inner tube makes a pretty good air filter cover.
 
I like your bike Mike, nice job innovating what's on hand and real close to the heart of what motorized bikes are all about. Good riding to you.
 
its 3/4" interior diameter for the pipe
its more like one inch outside diameter
and i like yall's idea for rubber on the roller.......

oh and i sighted the worlds biggest muffler today..... hahahaha
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Hate to see the clamps that hold that one on! Gottcha on the roller size, must be using water pipe, one of deacons favorite roller materials, Looks like maybe you are in the flats of TX? If you have no hills to negoiate, then you might could slip a piece if 1" hose over the pipe to get a roller somewhere close to 1.25. Thats probably getting close to the limit that the little Homey can handle practically power wise. Assuming 7000rpm, which chain saws easily do, 26mph is possible. If you coated the inside of the hose with silicon ashesive I bet it would slip right on, and once cured not ever slip. Just a thought.
 
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