Cheap CDI

What a nice looking cdi, skrew!
probably better looking than most could build at home.
As DTG said, there's an orange, a red with a stripe, and one of the blacks is paired with another wire.
Seller really has a responsibility to provide you with a diagram, IMO.
Otherwise, 'Thevenin's Theorem' it is, for reverse engineering.

What was your source?

I'll look forward to seeing your running results posted!
Best
rc
 
Well, no.

I would do this personally.

Orange/Black - To Coil.
Black Motor - Black CDI.
Blue Motor - x1 Red CDI.
White Motor - Wire Cap.
x1 Red CDI - Wire Cap.


Please, if anyone knows why this isn't a good way to wire, speak up. Seems to me this is how I would try though.

Note though, you could prolly wire a tachometer to the other red wire no problem at all.
 
OK. Like this?
 

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rustycase said:
What a nice looking cdi, skrew!
probably better looking than most could build at home.
As DTG said, there's an orange, a red with a stripe, and one of the blacks is paired with another wire.
Seller really has a responsibility to provide you with a diagram, IMO.
Otherwise, 'Thevenin's Theorem' it is, for reverse engineering.

What was your source?

I'll look forward to seeing your running results posted!
Best
rc
Click to expand...

I got it here:
2 STROKE RACE CDI IGNITION JOG Minarelli 1PE40QMB | eBay
There are 5 left.
 
I received an email from the merchant with the wiring diagram. I'm still a little foggy on the connections, keep in mind I'm still learning. Here's what they sent:
 

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Blue from motor goes to EXT.
Coil goes to IGN.
Kill switch goes to SW.
Black from motor (Ground) goes to E.

It shows PC going to ground, but I would cap it and leave it alone.
 
Thanks! Now I just have to wait till it gets here. In the meantime, I need to check for some air leaks and build a new tank bracket which snapped from vibrations this weekend. Maybe I'll use steel instead of the aluminum strip I had laying around.
 
You're welcome - now of course, that's just after a 30 second glance at the attachments you posted, I could be wrong, but it seems to add up.
 
The colors are off, but this is the CDI wiring when you change these colors over.

And Rohmell - I don't mind at all, when you contradict when it comes to electronics, you're 99% of the time right and justified. (the 1% I just assume you've been wrong at some point in time at least once.)


Honda CDI wiring - MopedWiki

An NU50 needs a 12VDC power source to provide power for the CDI black box (capacitive discharge ignition)

CDI Black Box wiring: SW = Blue/Yell , EXT = Black/Red, PC = Black/Yell, E = Green, Ign = Black/White

Black/White - goes to the ignition side of on/off key switch and to the stop switch (when off, grounds out the ignition)

Green - ground

Blue/Yell - ignition trigger/pick-up (in alt)

Black/Red - 12VDC power source

Black/Yell - coil primary side

Also, you need a 12VDC battery for the lighting/aux power systems. The white lead from the Alt coil goes to the SCR (silicon control rectifier) to convert AC Alt power output to DC Battery input (charging).

The battery alone will not support the horn, turn signals, lights at idle/low rpm w/o discharging the batt during nighttime operation. The lighting coil tap in the same Alt coil (yellow lead) is to provide auxiliary power for these functions.
 
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Well, Rohmell I believe you're right. I emailed a few companies about the CDI, and recieved these replies:

Hello Joe,

If you are using this for motorized bicycle it will not work with out a external power source 12V, the engine only produce 6v. This will work on Franco Morini Engines.

Hope this help

Thank you
JNMotors Bikes Tech

and

Dear skrew37,

We don't have a wiring diagram for it, sorry.
Whenever we use it, we just plug it in and that's it.
- kandkscooters

I'll use your suggestions for wiring it and what type of 12v battery should I use?
 
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