Chain sticking/clicking/grinding...Need help!!

[Greg58]

On the stock carb up the choke is on or in the start position, down is off/run position.

 

[allen standley]

Glad to hear! Use Greg's method above and check your nuts and bolts often.Happy motoring!

 

[MEASURE TWICE]

Glad to be of some help Fad. It's all a process of tackling issues one at a time. Knowing which prob to tend first is most important.
1) Is the whole using multiple master links on the chain an issue?
well - You should not need more than one master link, more than one is one more than needed, with that said there are half links avail also. You Should own a chain breaker like thishttps://www.amazon.com/AZSSMUK-Detacher-Breaker-Motorcycle-Replacement/dp/B079K9YPJL/ref=sr_1_10?keywords=motorcycle+chain+break&link_code=qs&qid=1583331685&sourceid=Mozilla-search&sr=8-10
Tractor supply carries #41 machine chain which works nicely with our bikes. It is slightly more narrow than the 415H that comes with the kits. Box contains enough chain to complete 2 bikes (10ft) with several links left over. Before throwing more money @ the prob. Pull that cover and look at the wear marks which will give you better insight to the grinding prob. Look at the Master Links to see if any Alum "skin" is in them. I do think more than one Master link can contribute to chain travel issues especially in the clutch cover and around the small drive sprocket. Inspect the cover and chain @ master links but don't fix this yet... Let's do a couple other things first.
2) If I mount the engine properly, the metal arm of the pedal crank will hit the muffler/exhaust. Have this happened to you previously? Any suggestions on what to do/buy?
Yes, another common issue. So set me straight-- here. Can't lessen engine angle due to muffler clearance issue and pedal crank issue.
Accept the fact you can not ride for a couple days here till the two issues above are tended.
Remove the muffler from the engine, Remove the Chain from the engine. The only thing now preventing a good solid install is that Pedal crank. Start with this. Now -- If you can grind away enough metal from the back side of the pedal crank to clear the motor. that is one problem solved. The immediate objective is to mount the engine in the "V" as low and snug as possible to insure the best mount. So I f grinding is not an option you may need to purchase a wide crank set found here. https://www.amazon.com/CDHPOWER-Con...ds=wide+pedal+crank+kit&qid=1583331065&sr=8-5
This alone could solve both clearance issues. Do some measuring and looking for the correct kit for your particular bike. Local bike shop comes to mind.
The muffler can be dented or bent using heat from a propane torch and a bench vise. Mount that motor in the frame first. It is possible drive line issues will disappear after mounted well?? Keep us posted.
See my Album "Happy Chains" for some drive line tips.
https://motorbicycling.com/media/albums/happy-chains.1499/

Just wanted to add that I use half link and a master link. I found it helpful since my engine platform I made only has a little adjustment. Once a chain is worn stretched, it is looser and may try to jump. I had had replaced the chain about 2 years ago. I lubed it and check tension, but this last time I notice the half link was not straightening out after it was no longer on the teeth of either sprocket. My plan was and still is to get a new half link to replace it. Though I saw a type the call a 2 pitch offset link. No cotter pin and is recommenced over the half link. Looks like I will use the chain breaker on my chain to use this offset link which is longer by 50% comparatively. But by removing one link of the regular chain and adding this link you achieve the same half link addition that is stronger.

https://www.diamondchain.com/faq/what-is-a-roller-chain-offset-link/

https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-DIAMOND-OFFSET-S-S-STAINLESS-CHAIN-LINK-35SS-GAU-1282-P-GAU1282P-LOT-OF-9/231223655139?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

The one below has a better picture, not in the bag. This though is not the 35 chain type I use. The one above is.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-DIAMON...385415&hash=item260f403d7b:g:nRIAAOSw65FXqJ5z

 

[John Shiver]

Hi everyone,

Pretty new to all things motorized bicycle. I've got a 2-stroke 80cc road motorbike in its engine-breaking period. All was working fine until the chain started jumping off/skipping. I had tried adjusting the tensioner as per a few videos on youtube that I found, and that didn't do it.

I then decided to cut the chain a bit shorter thinking it was too much slack, and cut it a little too short and the chain currently has about 4 master links (read somewhere that it doesn't matter how many master links you have, please correct me if that's incorrect). Tried riding it and it worked for a couple of blocks then it started getting stuck...

From what I've read in different posts and learned from other videos it could be an issue with the motor alignment (making sure the chain is straight from the motor drive-train to the rear sprocket), the rear sprocket alignment (which I re-installed also to try and fix the problem and made sure there is no wobble), or I need a new chain..

Not exactly sure what's going on or what to do, and definitely need some help. I've attached some pictures and a video in hopes that it can provide clarity on what's going on!

Video:

Images:

View attachment 103806 View attachment 103807 View attachment 103808 View attachment 103809 View attachment 103810 View attachment 103811 View attachment 103812 View attachment 103813 View attachment 103814

I'm havinging the same issue my chain keeps popping off the back sprocket and it looks pretty well lined up to me but it's an OCC chopper bike and I don't have a custom mount for it I just Riggs a custom way to mount it it's not the greatest but the motor is not jumping around it is tight to the frame but it's like it's still pops everytime on the sprocket and I don't know what the problem is I can't put a chain tensioner on the frame because the tensioner I have is built for regular bike diameter and the chopper diameter is square ish and bigger so but I have the chain pretty tight and it still keeps wanting to pop off it's got me so frustrated I'm ready to just take a hammer to it LOL I've took the sprocket off put it back on there's no wobbles to it it it looks really straight into the drive chain but I don't know if it's still popping off

 

[MEASURE TWICE]

Viewing the video you added, I hear the loudest grind at the 1 to 2 second mark in the beginning of the video. Would be really great to see a side view of the sprocket up front with cover removed. If you turn it slow and see it climbing a link up the side of a sprocket tooth you then can try to determine if it is sprocket chain or both. Best to have replacement parts to swap in and tell if either or both are needed. I know this may not be always the case. If you take the chain off completely and lubricate it and then run it over say a pencil, does it have a nice flowing curve of the links over the pencil or does it keep one or more links kinked. If so then that has to be addressed. Since that is easy to do I do that first. Looking at alignment is a bit tricky and having some kind of jig or something to aid in examining the trueness would be helpful. Some where forget someone devised something for that. Also just taking the chain and having a new unused chain side by side, compare to see if stretched. Not sure what spec would allow, again mfg have those specs like Diamond Chain Co. Also look at the teeth on gears to see if they are bent or chipped. When thinking about your video, I thought a video from the other axis viewing from side of chain might see chain links that got distorted and need to be removed or whole new chain. Also if they get stiff links and so are probably bent from something, would be nice to know why it happened. I think too loose chain in my case for at least one instance was the reason a link or two or three got bent. The other was alignment of both sprockets true to one another. Chain stretch is just normal and replacing the chain does not cost but from 10 to 20 dollars. I really didn't like the half links I got as they seemed kind of loose. This is why I like the offset which I mentioned above that is all press fit. You do not press fit any of its components, it is already as is set. It would require 2 master links at each end I understand to connect it in the chain length, but that's OK. I say OK as the master links I got are not really loose at all.