Center Stand?

Discussion in 'High Performance Bicycle Engine Tips and Motorized' started by Mercman, Feb 23, 2012.

  1. Mercman

    Mercman New Member

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    Has anyone found a good, rugged, STEEL, center stand that will tolerate stationary garage or shop starts with the rear wheel elevated.?? Die cast alloy units, no mater how rugged, don't cut it. The legs blow out like a deer legs on ice! This is for a mountain bike build. Thanks for any feedback.:-||
     
  2. The_Aleman

    The_Aleman Active Member

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  3. Mercman

    Mercman New Member

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    Gotta be steel, hardened as not to bend.....


    "Experience" is letting you recognize a mistake when you make it again...........
     
  4. bandito

    bandito New Member

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    Stay away from a brand called M-WAVE they're junk. One I ordered broke before I installed it due to crappy welds.
     
  5. thatsdax

    thatsdax Member

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    I prefer the Alloy Center stands for use as a stand to support my bike. For rear stand, I like the steel ones. When it comes to work, I use a Park Stand.
     
  6. MEASURE TWICE

    MEASURE TWICE Well-Known Member

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    ========

    From Measure Twice

    Mercman check out this other thread on MB and they mention same problem, but this crowcyceco.com had pics of a few and mentions steel lowers. I don't know how strong whatever is considered not the lower parts made of.

    Check it out.

    http://motorbicycling.com/showthread.php?t=35888

    http://www.crowcycleco.com/review/product/list/id/3/category/25/

    I may just weld two of the same kickstand together I was thinking, but I'd have to take and make one of them with the foot the opposite direction to make a matched set. Maybe this is a fairley good made one?

    MT
     
  7. James912

    James912 Member

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    Just be sure to tighten the nuts on those legs really tight and use threadlocker. I tightened them up and went for a ride and...they both fell off. I have a staton 33.5cc friction drive with smooth road tires.I didn't realize the legs had come off till i was half way home. lol I went back the route i came and found one of the legs. Never found the other. I got the: Double Leg Kickstand, Screw Adjust, Black, Extra TALL
    It holds the front half of my bike up very well. I have my friction drive and my china girl on the same bike and it holds. Thats around 50-70lbs. The legs on the one i got are aluminum. I gotta go to home depot and get a bolt to replace the leg i lost. lol Great kickstand. Just use threadlocker...
     
  8. lowracer

    lowracer New Member

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    I use 2 of the Crow Cycles center stands.
    I have the extra tall alloy on one MB & the Std steel on another MB.
    These things are awesome!
    -lowracer-
     
  9. MEASURE TWICE

    MEASURE TWICE Well-Known Member

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    I put the review page for this item below, but here is the page itself for the item. I was wondering what the adjustment is accomplished by.

    They say 24 to 28 and I have the 26 inch wheels. So I see it it threads, so maybe the replacement at Homedepot is just a long bolt.

    What I will do if I get this item, I'll use the Locktite and also put nlyon locking nuts to jam in position as well. Could throw in some split locks too:)

    Looking at the bottom where the legs seem to go into some plastic very bottom foot piece, I wondered it they are threaded to and could fall off?

    I would want for some places I go to widen the very bottom foot piece so that soft ground does not let the bike fall over.

    MT

    http://www.crowcycleco.com/bicycle-components/kickstand/double-leg-kickstand-screw-adjust-black.html
     
  10. Mercman

    Mercman New Member

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    I ordered an "extra tall" from CROW........I'll let you all know.........
     
  11. Mercman

    Mercman New Member

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    Crow's extra tall showed up yesterday. I installed it on a Trek conversion this afternoon.
    I don't know how the hollow adjustable legs will stand up. I'd prefer a solid bolt instead.
    The thread is a metic 12mm x 1.5 .......and the bolts would need to be at least 3.5" long.
    I'll check at Home Depot the next time I'm there. I was able to side kick the motor over
    without any major flexing. Time always tells. The "MASSLOAD" alloy unit is a nice center
    stand for parking but the legs bent outward and towards the front when kicking the motor over. The center stand on my OCC Chopper stands up well....but needs to be relocated a little to the rear.
     
  12. MEASURE TWICE

    MEASURE TWICE Well-Known Member

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    Did you buy two of these center stands from Crow's and use them on both the Trek and the OCC bikes you have, or does the OCC have a different one?

    MT
     
  13. Mercman

    Mercman New Member

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    OCC stand is stock factory unit welded to frame.......
     
  14. MEASURE TWICE

    MEASURE TWICE Well-Known Member

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    Oh OK.

    I found this Sunlite Double Kickstand

    http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=470938811&pf_rd_i=507846

    I'm ordering from Amazon and also getting some cable and cover cheap for brakes throttle to get free shipping over 25.

    The cable is a long legnth cable
    Cover Lined Black
    1530mm Housing length
    1650mm Cable length

    XLC Brake Cable & Housing, Universal Black / Lined


    http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_n...&+Housing,+Universal+Black+/+Lined+&x=12&y=25

    I'll let you know how they work.

    MT
     
    #14 MEASURE TWICE, Mar 3, 2012
    Last edited: Mar 5, 2012
  15. MEASURE TWICE

    MEASURE TWICE Well-Known Member

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    I got the Sunlite Double 26 wheel type stand part today and it looks quite good. No adjustment, but made for my 26 inch wheels frame. I'm gonna see how it fits and get some pics when I do.

    I checked the welds look nice from the top portion and it also looks quite thick at the top portion. Metal nicely coated black enamel paint.

    The bottom legs go down and have an angle bend very shallow half way down to the foot rubber parts. It also has an angle bend right at the foot. The feet don’t even twist and they are probably glued on rubber or very snug, not looking like they will fall off.

    I took and hit one of the legs on the side of the curb lightly to hear the sound it makes, as I almost thought they could be solid. But seeing the bend that they have already purposely put on the legs, and then I thought not.

    They really did not seem thin at all from the sound it made. I know they are hollow and that is why I tried to take a look inside the bottom of one of the feet by removing the rubber foot but it would not come off easy and I decide not to do that.

    The weight of the stand was said to be 5 lbs on the Amazon website and it is far less than that. This is OK though as it does seem study and I am not going to sit on the bike with it down as I know that it is not made for that. I have a lead weight that is 5lbs and another that is 3lbs and the stand feels even less than the 3lb one. It probably is half the weight stated.

    I have a liter plastic bottle for relative sizing you can see with the stand both up and down in the pics I took and attached below.


    Sunlite Double Kickstand for 26 inch wheel frame

    http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=470938811&pf_rd_i=507846


    XLC Brake Cable & Housing, Universal Black / Lined

    http://www.amazon.com/Brake-Cable-H...28MK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1330988679&sr=8-1

    Also the cable I have not really checked out yet, but looks like quality and smoothe.

    cable $5.72 free shipping can't go wrong! ** fyi when I ordered was $5.49 up 4%

    double stand for 26 inch $25.69 free shipping, I like! ** fyi when I ordered was $22.99 up 12%

    ******************************************************************

    I was only going to get the double stand but then would pay shipping if under $25.00 total on free shipping eligible order at that time.

    I added the cables as the shipping would probably have been about the same as the cable, so instead pay the same and get more stuff.

    Unfortunately here is what I just noticed...... prices go up or down at various times so see what it is before you buy. There both up a little bit in price now.

    When totally checked out how the parts operate I do and update.


    *********************************************************************

    MT
     

    Attached Files:

    #15 MEASURE TWICE, Mar 5, 2012
    Last edited: Mar 6, 2012
  16. MEASURE TWICE

    MEASURE TWICE Well-Known Member

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    20200202_161335.jpg 20200202_150309.jpg 20200202_150309.jpg copy20200202_150305.jpg 20200202_142806.jpg 20200202_142806.jpg copy20200202_150305.jpg

    I got this second center stand when the other one as I remember bent and was aluminum. The long address shown below is Walmart selling for this way cheap steel one looking much the same, just the spring is hidden behind part of the stand in the picture. Ventura brand. It has been OK but it recently bent one leg forward and outward.


    I thought I would bend it back carefully and then make some gussets with my MIG Welder. Decided not to bother with the gussets so far. I did however find that I did not like that it would not retract all the way back up and feared for bending the stand legs while riding or worse a bad spill.


    Back when I bought it I saw that problem, but let it be. I do believe that with the heavy bike while rolling the bike back to set the stand up, it probably caught most of the weight on just the left leg.


    I though still wanted it to go pretty much as far as possible up. I hack sawed two slices purposely to cut into the steel parts that moved. In the up position stop these were already cut and bent outward created the stops made by the manufacturer.


    You can see part of the bend tab where I did not cut it all away with the hack saw. I'm not sure why it was only in up position at around 45-degree angle. What good is that? Now it is around 90 degree.


    I cut with a hack saw the stops and then it would go up twice the ground clearance from the feet of stand around 5 inches now. I did have to bend new end of the spring to shorten it so it would go further and that was scary.


    Removing and installing a spring like this I had a face shield on, but next time I will get my better face shield that comes down and also protect the neck. No sense in preserving the helmet. Initially I was just using the hack saw and used the cheapo face shield. Vise grips on the spring end did not do well to re-install though OK when removing it. A heady needle nose pliers and I was using it as leverage only really. I put one half the end of the needle nose in the hole the spring end was to go into. The length of that half of the needle nose hook onto the spring end bent loop.


    Now that it works like it should and the bending it back to shape held up, I noticed no matter how well I tightened the big Allen wrench for the single bolt attaching it to the frame, it would still twist. Not wanting to snap or crush something, I saw that I was using not the original top plate to connect the bolt.


    By another I mean it was not painted black, but was galvanized. This part did not have as much a divit in it that stops rotation as much but it corrected it from being off to one side and on a slant, where that was of no use at all. I remember my frame when trying to use the top plate from the one included with the bolt and stand, It would not stay centered and I used this one instead and also added a split lock washer.


    Looking over the internet I found where a guy did as it looks drill four small holes in the tube or just butt welded these small nail heads that had a small slot ground away in each one. It created a slot that the top plate slid into and so it could not rotate at all and loosen. Of course, this guy’s kick stand was not a center stand. It there for was more prone to loosening the bolt as the side stand does try to rotate the whole thing when putting up or down the stand.


    I’m thinking of where someone mentioned slipping an old inner tube cut up to add friction. This you'll probably find on the site where I give credit. I’ve done something similar for other stuff by using a piece of sand paper folder over with the grit facing outward and putting it between the surfaces.

    Any ideas? I think maybe not the easiest way, but next to best is welding and or reshaping the top plate to match up with the inner sides of the frame tubes and prevent rotating. Sort of in a way to what those pins welded to the frame were done, but I would rather leave the frame alone. Ha Ha, I know I have already welded a bunch of stuff to the frame since one day it shall be covered in art work to look like a California Sheeps Head Fish for parade and events.

    On second thought I think it is not so much the top plate, but the plate with the welded in threads part of the stand itself that needs to have some additional shape added to prevent rotation. I expect I'll figure it out, but not ride it without getting is solid.



    To give credit:
    https://www.bikeforums.net/bicycle-mechanics/873958-bolt-specification-pletscher-kickstand.html see 4-29-18 Andrew R Stewart

    [​IMG]


    https://www.walmart.com/ip/Ventura-...MI-_mki_G25wIVLiCtBh2tQg8xEAQYAiABEgJ-N_D_BwE

    [​IMG]
     
    #16 MEASURE TWICE, Feb 3, 2020
    Last edited: Feb 4, 2020
    indian22 likes this.
  17. MEASURE TWICE

    MEASURE TWICE Well-Known Member

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    I believe I will weld on two pieces of metal to the edges of the square plate with the threaded hole in it.

    On the two side there will be a vertical flat piece of metal to fit just snug enough along the edges of the bikes metal tubes.

    It is better to not have to weld on the bike as it has the engine with oil and also gas if I do not dry out the tank. Removing stuff takes a bit of time. Spatter is quite something to be concerned about, laugh it up safety third!
     
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  18. indian22

    indian22 Well-Known Member

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    I like drive off stands. The best I've found is the Crow mentioned early in the thread and even those I normally modify to suit the bike and replace the adjustable aluminum bolt for steel or slip a couple of steel tubes over the legs with two inch steel pads welded to the end for support on soft surfaces, also a help in high wind, cut to proper length I don't care about adjustable as the stand is for just one bike.

    A small hole drilled at the hinge point prevents the stand from folding when a steel pin is inserted, Handy when working on the bike, especially when removing wheels or any work on the roadside. Or accidental bumps from the rear when parked, which will fold the stand.

    Crow's are few and far between when I'm looking for them and I need one now.

    Rick C.
     
  19. MEASURE TWICE

    MEASURE TWICE Well-Known Member

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    So I didn't have time to rig up something to have the kick stand work better. The clearance from ground modification works fine though. I went trail riding and before I started out I was planning on loosening up the bolt to have the associated parts that hold the center stand stay in position laterally more firm. I was going to slip some sand paper folded with two side grit to contact the frame and the plates. Before I did i went to tightened it back up one last time and it held. I did not really check to why it happened, other than that I though it was not centered (the plates and bolt parts) left to right accurately enough to stay rock solid. More recently I have another opinion and could later verify it to be correct by checking. I think what really happened is I had the bolt if not loosen, the bolt and plate was forced backward when prior one of the legs hit something on the trail. This may have had the clamp plates slide backward. Since the frame bars it clamps on are not parallel, but widen toward the rear wheel, it could self loosen at that time. I know just recall 45 years ago to keep this from happening we cut a block of wood and fit it behind the clamp so it was not to move aft and loosen. You might ask why not just initially clamp it as far back as possible and it would not be able to move backward. I can say I was not thinking self built in way to prevent stand leg from getting belt. No we put it clamped near the middle somewhere as it had the best surface area contact. Still they slid back, The small block of hard wood taped in place behind the clamp bolt and plates was common place. It worked fine. I will add this simple fix possibly, It may not be needed in cases where bike frame matches up better with stand used on it. Just note frames shape where the kick or dual center stand clamp goes probably is designed with not any specific stand. I mean is there a international standard?
     
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  20. indian22

    indian22 Well-Known Member

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    No standards but similar sometimes.

    If you notice the space formed by the two chain stays and the stay spreader tube, some call it a bottom fender brace) where the drive off stand bolt goes through. This empty space is where I place a piece 0f 1/2" thick aluminum plate (wood will work) cut out in the shape of this open space with a hole drilled through for the stand bolt. This piece keeps the stand from moving in any direction once bolted down using the hardware supplied with the stand and a few large washers used as spacers on the stand bolt to prevent the plate from rattling and prevent over tightening the stand plates that can damage the chain stays.

    Used this method for many years on cranky drive off stands.

    Rick C.
     

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