Center Stand?

[MEASURE TWICE]

Funny how I remembered what you did with aluminum (slightly nicer than wood), but only after finding out it will probably stay without it. Just it has to be just in the right spot to hold. What is even more is (not to down play it) that the search on internet found where on biker forum, see the above picture where weld 4 little posts and notch to keep the darn thing from moving. I was ready to ride and thought just to remove the stand altogether. In the off road riding there usually is not a flat enough place on the trails anyway. At the park store I have seen some just rest the large 500cc commercial made dirt bikes against a tree. My second day riding on a fire road I saw a black wolf cross the road quickly and I just slowed a bit. That was a first!

 

[indian22]

That's a great spot on the wolf MT! I'm still into mountain bikes and use my full suspension with front hub to cruise and watch the wild life and we have grand quantities of it. So the "dogs" prairie wolves, coyotes and even long tail cats follow the turkey and deer herds. They still spot me but without sound all the species seem more curious than alarmed.

Stands on MB or dirt bikes that don't often get off trail aren't important, but if riding is varied or tends toward road use they are quite important in my opinion, but I modify some of my bike drive off stands with 2" diameter "pads" and other mods to keep the stand from folding accidentally.

I noticed the pins welded in place on the photo and that was a good idea as well, but for many home welders welding the small diameter,thin alloy tubes of a bike frame isn't a good option even on a steel frame.

I rode MB for years with no stand and that worked out well on pedal bikes, but I went to stands with all motored bikes and wouldn't go back to stand less. I like my options better running with a stand.

Rick C.

 

[MEASURE TWICE]

I rode my bike near by on private dirt roads today. My center stand was not having the teeter todder effect anymore. I used to be able to weight the front wheel down and and bungee it to not turn and just stay straight. I could then with rear wheel just slightly off the ground do so some what dangerous warming up the engine at above idle speed. Not today, not too bright, but I thought maybe it was the pavement irregularity. I put a shim under the stands legs. I thought something shifted. Later I saw the point to which one leg round tube attaches to the metal plate with the springie thing looking not right. It looked as like it folded a bit. I'll get the welder out when another weather passes. Now sparks are not so much a problem, still have the hose ready and off the reel in case. Expect I can do away with the legs they have and just make my own with gussets. Also maybe if I see a way to beef up the rest of the stand where legs attach to. Rode without the stand and put wood blocks under it and rested it against a wall temporarily. My bike is a hog weight so either I spend more than I would like or just fix it myself. Thinking eventually a manufactured dirt bike, but a enduro type that can have plates cause it has all lights and stuff so goes on public roads not just fire roads and trails where Green OHV Sticker allows.

 

[wrench]

Strongest M/B center stand on the market
www.whizzercruzzerparts.com/product/center-stand-goose-neck.006/

 

[MEASURE TWICE]

Is it made of all steel? I book marked it as it does look like it could do.

 

[wrench]

Yes it's all steel with 2 mounting bolts. I've been using one for 15 years and I'm happy with it

 

[indian22]

Cool Whizzer!! I use center mount drive off stands on all my bikes, heavy duty is the only way to go, in an all steel stand. I use the same stand on all my bikes (10 motorized & 1 pedal bike) my full suspension is a leaner that I built from 3/4" steel tube.

The stands are $25. on Ebay I've many thousands of miles on them and never a problem. 1000 lb. load weight on the stand...no problem. PM me if you want details (I'm not a vendor) I normally keep an extra on hand but need to order a spare for a future project. I've made mods to some, like the fixed height and large "duck foot" pads to support heavy bikes on soft terrain & a fold lock to prevent the bike stand from accidentally folding when bumped hard from the rear or while doing repairs or maintenance on the bike. The adjuster bolts are aluminum (metric) a so I replace with good steel bolts and weld 2" pads to the bolt for bikes I want to be able to adjust height on.

Mods aren't actually needed for the majority of my builds, but for some builds it's nice to have options.

Rick C.

 

[indian22]

The stand is $25. INCLUDES SHIPPING heck of a great value at any price.. Ebay just use the number 570-005 in the search description box.
Merry Christmas!

Rick C.

 

[MEASURE TWICE]

There were two models, one longer which I chose. The adjustment I put all the way to minimum with the aluminum threaded all the way into the steel legs. Works fine. Maybe I will make some wider feet for my offroading. The ones I bought before from a 3rd party seller on Walmart.com were $15. These for $25 with the way I see it has more metal welded to the round tubes, gusset strengthens. Thanks!

 

[MEASURE TWICE]

When looking at the other similar, the round tubes are bent to a shape. The curve ends up with a kink in the tube, looking like it would bend. And sure enough the ones without gussets added to the round tube like this has, will if enough force is applied, bend.

 

[MEASURE TWICE]

I have used the item the way it came till now. The epoxy they used held for a while as you can see by the date of purchase to now. Till I decide to get the 1/2 inch steel threaded rod and a big steel fender washer to weld up I'll do like this and see.

Used like an 8/32 screw with flat washer and nylon locking nut, with the plastic and metal drilled through.