CE Clutch Actuator Advice

xtk

New Member
I installed a CE clutch the other day and I finally made the necessary adjustments to the clutch to get it to work. My only concern is how I adjusted the placement for the swing arm and the cam to be at.

If you look at my pictures the swing arm is positioned inward which is not engaging the clutch at the moment

PIC-0011_1-1.jpg
(Not engaged)

And if you look at this one the clutch is engaged

PIC-0010-1.jpg
(engaged)

Is my arm placement off on this application or is this normal? I get the feeling the application should be paralleled with the clutch housing...

Any advice?

p.s. I love the parts that Jim made for me. THANK YOU!!!!
 
o.O I haven't had Jim's clutch and most I've seen are parallel with the housing - but I figure the arm on yers must be adjustable? If so and that setup works - I'd just run it.

It's nicely out of the way of yer pant leg lol

However - Jim will be around sooner or later and have sumthin' to say ;)
 
o.O I haven't had Jim's clutch and most I've seen are parallel with the housing - but I figure the arm on yers must be adjustable? If so and that setup works - I'd just run it.

It's nicely out of the way of yer pant leg lol

However - Jim will be around sooner or later and have sumthin' to say ;)


The setup works... the lever requires less pressure to engage the clutch, but I figure Im not using this new clutch kit to its full potential if there is less friction required to acuate the clutch.

As for it being out of the way of the pant leg... Who said anything about wearings pants... Or clothing for that matter? dnut
 
Nekkid ridin' is drafty and cold round here - but I'm sure it provides quite the drag reduction...

That'll one-up the spandex crowd :D
 
xtk,

Glad you liked your kit!

It looks good to me.

It's actually better to set it up the way you have it. With the arm clocked a bit counter-clockwise from the normal; the return spring is more effective.

The way the cam is shaped the interal spring action will not always cause the clutch arm to return, so having a little extra pressure on the return spring that goes between the arm and the cable stanchion won't hurt.

In the future if it becomes necessary to re-adjust the assembly: simply remove the cam and arm...remove the nut and washer that holds the arm onto the cam...mark the location of the arm relative to the cam with a felt tip pen...hold the arm on the edge of a table with the cam facing down...hit the end with a hammer. Use the pen marks to clock the arm 10 degress clockwise, and replace the washer & nut.

Jim
 
xtk,

Glad you liked your kit!

It looks good to me.

It's actually better to set it up the way you have it. With the arm clocked a bit counter-clockwise from the normal; the return spring is more effective.

The way the cam is shaped the interal spring action will not always cause the clutch arm to return, so having a little extra pressure on the return spring that goes between the arm and the cable stanchion won't hurt.

In the future if it becomes necessary to re-adjust the assembly: simply remove the cam and arm...remove the nut and washer that holds the arm onto the cam...mark the location of the arm relative to the cam with a felt tip pen...hold the arm on the edge of a table with the cam facing down...hit the end with a hammer. Use the pen marks to clock the arm 10 degress clockwise, and replace the washer & nut.

Jim
Jim
Are you going to build anymore kit's?
 
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