can't find an answer then ask here someone may be able to help!!

Norman

Norman

LORD VADER Moderator
I'll work with you on the problem with your bike if you can't find the answer here on the forum.
I might be able to answer you questions on a 4-stroke as well.
This should be fun for a big problem you can call me. PM me for my number.
Norman
 
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Norman:
My clutch is making quite the racket! I had tried a couple different things from the get go since purchase. MY Motor-KingsMotor "80cc" 35T sprocket. I have the rubber on the outside of the clutch cover , I make sure there is only about a pea sized glob of grease inside.I had removed the pressure plate and had at one time replaced the clutch pads , since I have re-installed original's because it seemed the new ones wasnt grabbing either. but when I had removed the inner center plate spring and noticed the center nut was about 3-4 turns loose, so I hand tighten nut replaced clutch, cover. 1st test run, there is some serious rattling going on while clutch is disengaged! when under power/load it pulls good , has no slippage. the clutch right now is noisy. what about that center nut behind the pressure plate?
 
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Is it only noisy when you have the clutch lever pulled in? Did you forget the light spring under the pressure plate? Have you greased the short shaft and ball on the clutch arm side(sprocket side). All other nuts tight,main nut on the clutch shaft? Is the clutch rubbing anywhere on the housing or cover you will see metal shaving and shiny spots. Did you take the clutch plate apart and loose any of the small loose bearings? There is also 3 screws under the clutch housing that hold the engine case together one of them might be loose and rubbing the clutch I've also found on some engines there are shimms under the clutch they go on first the the clutch assembly not all have them. Then the bearing on the shaft might be going bad they will make noise.
Check the easy things first.
Norman
 
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I've got an sbp shift kit and in the last couple rides it seemed like the clutch was slipping when i started it. the first 1/4 turn of the cranks didn't seem to spin the engine and then it would be impossible to turn. after a few attempts it works but initially it feels like the pressure plate in the clutch just isn't being grabbed by the pads. o wait... do i just need to tighten the flower nut? maybe this is a really dumb question thats been ansered a bijillion times. sorry if it is.

you might try the starr/flower nut first. Norman
 
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Hi,
I just finished installing my bike motor kit and it went well but the motor will not start. I have tried contacting the dealer and RAW motors and no one responds.... I have fuel and spark(poor) but it will not even pop.
Any ideas?
Steve

Did try a little fuel mix about 1/2 teaspoon right into the spark plug hole and then try it? Norman
 
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Mr. Norman,

I am still confused (I stay that way a lot now) about the post/thread where Fairracing 31 responded about how to remove the chain. He cautioned about not loosing the ball bearing. Two photos were shown, one with a socket on the nut at the drive sprocket. I took the cover off to thread the chain onto the sprocket. The finger sized arm fell out when the cover was turned upside down, but there is no ball bearing. The arm/rod has a cutout in it. Does a ball bearing go into that slot/space? Or does that area fit onto the pencil size protusion and push it in when the clutch cable is pulled? If I am missing the ball bearing can you please give the size and a recommended source? Even the cat is laughing at me now. Thanks for any and all help and recommendations. Please don't say give this darn thing away now before I completely seal my fate with the devil.

Don
 
Hi Norm,
I tried putting some gas in the cylinder as you suggested and I also tried spraying some starting fluid(ether) directly into the intake still no pop. Is the magnet on the end of the crankshaft keyed to the shaft? If not could it be out of time ?
Thanks,
Steve
 
I have a problem. I got my motor yesterday and started on it today thinking oh by this afternoon the wind would be blowing through my hair but no. The sprocket I intstalled will not leave enought clearnce for the breaking arm to be reattached and the frame to be mounted back properly. I have pictures if that would help.
 
there is a post on this forum that shows you how to bend the brake arm and some mods to the axle to make your bike work I'm in L.A. right now and if you can't find the info I'll try to help you when I get back unless one of the guys wants to show you a link or the info.
 
yes the mag rotor is keyed to the shaft if it shears you timing can be way off if you have a good spark and it won't run then you will need to look at the key under the mags rotor. I think its a wood ruff key pretty small and hatefull if it is sheared you can make one out of a little larger key by grinding it with a dremel tool or if you get lucky find one at a parts store. Some of the vendors here should be able to help you with getting the right key. If not let me know I can make you one.
 
I like to make sure the inner clutch spring is tight. For people with motors that wont start but they have gas spark but no go. They shoud tighten that up and see if they can get a go. Does ithave resistance like the piston is moving or like just alot of friction don't use the flower nut to adjust you clutch only if you need a little bit. Loosen the flower nut by like 2-4 turns then tighten the inner clutch spring all the way, then you will have a good grip and you flower nut will just need a little adjusting to get it the way you want it.\

Norman did the article on how to tighten it, I'm not on the main computer or I would give the link out.
 
Howdy Norman,

My bike has alot of chatter in the clutch/transmission. I have followed you thread http://motorbicycling.com/f4/bicycle-engine-clutch-222.html and tried to solve the noise problem.

My best guess is that the large gear with the clutch pads is loose. There is play up and down and side to side. I have look inside the gear, and it appears all 8 zillion ball bearings are in place. The clutch works fine. Examining the grease there isn't excessive metal, and the teeth look fine.

So, is this slop normal? If not, how can I tighten it up? Or should I just leave well enough alone and let the chatter announce my arrival.

Thanks
John

PS: Thank you SO MUCH for all you "how to" threads. Your help has made my build possible!
 
Norm,

What size is the ball bearing that goes with the clutch actuator arm and please say where you can order one. I am near a Tractor Supply, old timey hardware, NAPA, AutoZones, etc.
Many thanks,
Don P
 
I measured the ball that is part of the clutch linkage its size is 0.312 thousands of an inch in dia.
I'm guessing a guy can find a ball bearing that might have the correct size ball or one real close to the right size and use it.
 
I am going to have to buy a bike the kit I bought does not fit any of the bikes I currently have without major modification. Any suggestions to which bike I should consider? I want something that requires little to no modifications that is comfortable

One bike that comes to mind is a Schwinn Jaguar but you will need to drill the front frame down tube. Ilikeabikea has this bike and he likes it. I try to find old mountain bike frames these older bikes will fit the engine with out major mods. You might have better luck asking this question in the general question forum the guys have done all kinds of bikes and have some very nice looking builds. I lean towards the rat bike myself low budget builds so if I wreak it no big loss and less likely to be stolen I hope.
Norman
 
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Norman Beetle Juice here my rear motor mount bolts are to short to tighten down my rear mount like I want it Where can i get longer 6mm bolts and I thought I saw a post where someone tap there's out to 8mm Will my 6mm be strong enough if I just get them a little longer:-||

Beetle
If you have a store called "fastenal" they might be able to help you find the right length studs or bolts in the 6 mm size. You can also look on line Mc Master Car is a source I think thats their name.
Nappa stores/auto parts stores will carry some of the metric fasteners or some of the better hardware stores. 6mm should be strong enough 8mm might cause clearance problems.
 
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I need to bend my muffler to allow clearance for the pedals.. I have a torch and a vice which would work the best norm? I have pictures too if you want them
 
I'd say the torch and vice will be needed to bend the pipe if your good at welding with the torch you can cut the pipe off of the mounting flange grind the pipe to the angle you need then re weld the pipe. The down side of this is the chrome will be history where you do the welding and cutting or even just the heating it up to bend it.
If you need just a little tweaking for the pipe and muffler to clear use the vice to bend the pipe don't try to bend the pipe attached to the engine as you will possibly damage the exhaust mounting studs or break the cylinder. That pipe on the stock exhausts is tough to bend cold and you can damage the pipe and muffler if you get to aggressive with it. if you can find a pipe to fit over the muffler to use as leverage that might help.
 
thanks norman! I think I am going to have to bend it i'm not that mechanically savy to be welding and cutting. This is my first build and I have ran into so many problems. I am almost there!


Good luck and go at it slow you should be good to go. If you can tweak the pipe to clear the pedals by 1/4" that should be plenty just don't let your feet rest on the pedals by the pipe as it won't take long to find out how hot the pipe can get.
Norman
 
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So I have to alter my muffler for pedal clearance. I was wondering if I could use a lawn mower muffler clamed on the end of a cut pipe or should I just bike the bullet and bend the pipe?
 
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