can you tell me if this engine is compatible w frame?

breath_easy13

breath_easy13

Active Member
I built one of these frames out using 26" x 2.25" tires they don't rub but the 1.95" tires would be easier to deal with & a 66 cc that many refer to as an 80, I used the built in frame post but it wasn't well aligned & required some modification to make it work. If I had it to do over I'd have eliminated the post and mounted the motor using a frame clamp for the front motor mount. The tank leaked as well on a seam bend and That added about $50. to the price plus the work and time for the tank sealant...it's been a great little bike ever since though.

I used a dual spring fork which easily accepts 26" x 2.25" tires as well, but most any 100 mm wide fork made for 26" wheel & tire application will work as well.

Rick C.
 
Sunlite dual spring fork mounted using a mountain bike style ahead stem

Yes, wide cranks on standard bottom bracket set JAP taper shaft to clear.

Photos show early progress of the build using the components you asked about, the wheels shown are 24" but latter changed to 26" wheels & tires as stated in previous post...plenty of room on the fork it has the 26" length fork legs with disc brake caliper stand offs built in.. To run a disc on the front you need a front wheel that is also rotor ready.

I would call them and order a headset specific to the frame be shipped with the bike mine was a 1" but I've heard some are 1 1/8" as well as the correct bottom bracket set. The wide crank levers are usually square taper JAP and take a 1/2" pedal set, but I do have one that came in using a 9/16" pedal set.

Rick C.
66 cc to schwinn post motor mount.jpg
sunlite dual spring fork.jpg
wide pedal.jpg
 
indian22 said:
Sunlite dual spring fork mounted using a mountain bike style ahead stem

Yes, wide cranks on standard bottom bracket set JAP taper shaft to clear.

Photos show early progress of the build using the components you asked about, the wheels shown are 24" but latter changed to 26" wheels & tires as stated in previous post...plenty of room on the fork it has the 26" length fork legs with disc brake caliper stand offs built in.. To run a disc on the front you need a front wheel that is also rotor ready.

I would call them and order a headset specific to the frame be shipped with the bike mine was a 1" but I've heard some are 1 1/8" as well as the correct bottom bracket set. The wide crank levers are usually square taper JAP and take a 1/2" pedal set, but I do have one that came in using a 9/16" pedal set.

Rick C.
View attachment 102027 View attachment 102028 View attachment 102029
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not to take away from the OP, just wondering how the exhaust cooler/plate is working for you? been debating on trying them. an where did you get tht idler? tht has got to be the coolest one i have ever seen!!
 
did you not use the rubber mounts that the engine came with ? ive read biased opions on using the rubber mounts vs not
simply bcuz the engine should be as close to the frame as possible
 
breath_easy13 said:
dude thats awesome, im so stoked to get building !!
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i wanna warn you. you are about to get into a very addictive hobby. it's worse then crack, crank and freon from your a/c. you're gonna say to yourself " i'm only gonna spend __x_amount__ of dollars and that's it!" then you are gonna find yourself searching through file cabniet after file cabinet of parts and pieces looking for tht darn super magneto you gutted from the engine you blew up trying to hit 50 mph. you're gonna end up with a wall of engines in various stages of birthing. it's a slippery slope, be very careful. ;)
 
I've made a lot of mistakes over ten years of building these things and & rubber mounts are not even close to a good idea on these China girl motors. Yes they vibrate & common sense says put rubber isolators on the mounts to counteract the vibrations, but while it may feel better at first the rubber gives and allows the motor to move even more and crack the frame. Aluminum is especially prone to cracking and is extremely difficult for the average guy to repair, but steel cracks too and if your fortunate you won't go to hospital for stupidity and broken bones. That's why Jimmy says it's bad stuff...what works on perfectly balanced motorcycle engines and cars doesn't on these little 2 strokes and though I've balanced a few of m engines I never use rubber for the reason just stated.

Rick C.
Jimmy Bloodmaker said:
i wanna warn you. you are about to get into a very addictive hobby. it's worse then crack, crank and freon from your a/c. you're gonna say to yourself " i'm only gonna spend __x_amount__ of dollars and that's it!" then you are gonna find yourself searching through file cabniet after file cabinet of parts and pieces looking for tht darn super magneto you gutted from the engine you blew up trying to hit 50 mph. you're gonna end up with a wall of engines in various stages of birthing. it's a slippery slope, be very careful. ;)
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Yes indeed Jimmy...

Rick C.
 
Jimmy Bloodmaker said:
not to take away from the OP, just wondering how the exhaust cooler/plate is working for you? been debating on trying them. an where did you get tht idler? tht has got to be the coolest one i have ever seen!!
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I bought a half dozen of these three or four years ago on sale...think it was Gas Bikes, but I know several vendors carried them.
breath_easy13 said:
dude thats awesome, im so stoked to get building !!
Click to expand...

I just realized I never took photos of the completed bike with 26" tires on it, but here's a photo of the bike about 80% completed.

I'm pretty certain the engine began life as a ZEDA 66 cc, but only the bottom end of that engine remains.

Rick C.
Excelsior Schwinn Autocycle 1.jpg
 
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yeah thats ver similar to the build im working on, to a t actually besides the engine, ill be using zedas 80/100cc

also, would powder coating the frame strengthen the aluminum ad gas tank?
 
hey so trying to get my parts list togther, and i found a lot of "suggested pairings" when your buying stuff on bikeberry, one paired me with this

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000AO5J9...olid=2F5T1WZXOVPYZ&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

what do i need this for ? also im using this rear wheel

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079SHTT4...olid=2F5T1WZXOVPYZ&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

dumb question but does the disk brake go on the side with the engine sproket, or the other side ? im just trying to better visualize everything
 
Brakes go on engine sprocket side, it's drilled and tapped for the brake rotor. Be very careful when you order this wheel because it's available in two very different versions and the photos show it as either a 150mm wide 6 speed wheel or a single speed coaster wheel. You want to order the single speed, free wheel coaster version for the 110mm frame your thinking of buying. The multi speed is too wide for this particular frame etc, etc. bottom line get the one that works for your frame. I have an idea that the reason the freewheel "'sprocket" was suggested was because those who unknowingly ordered the 6 speed wheel were in the process of converting the wheel to single speed so the wheel would work on their narrow frame drops. This adds to the expense and complexity of the build for inexperienced builders. It can be done if required, but I wouldn't think the wheel worth the effort. Product reviews aren't very encouraging either.

Most of these vendors don't fully disclose the necessary specs that builders novice or veteran need to know and often it's because they don't know what goes into building a "custom" bike...they just sell stuff and ordering is frustrating to all of us.

Sorry I'm a bit negative on this one, but this is my take on it.

Rick C.
 
gotch ya, I cant find a "motorized bike wheel" that has the engine sprocket already attached to the rear hub. I just notices how dff the pictures are, one says 150, and the other is 135.. huh thats funny. Well i wanted to get a wheel with the engine sprocket already attached bcuz its suppose to stand up against the engine power better and add support. i also dont see a spec on the frame on bikeberrry site, is this frame desinged for a 135 rear, or a 150 ? I emailed them asking what size tire could fit on the rear and the responded with 26 x 3 which is rad becasue i was hoping to put 26 x 2.25 on.

What wheel set did you use ? I would like to purchase a wheelset specifically designed for motor bikes, with the engine sprocket already attached to the hub, but most the wheel sets on bike berry the max tire width is like 1.95, this is the only set on amazon i found that had a tire size greater the 1.95, with the sprocket already attached.

Would i be better just contacting amazon and making sure they send me the free wheel coaster version wheel at 110 mm frame ?
My only concern is that these generic bike kits on amazon look like crap. I feel like i might just be better off, buying a reliable known brand wheel set like below
https://www.amazon.com/Mountain-Whe...ds&sprefix=26+inch+wheel+,sporting,149&sr=1-1

and just attaching the engine sprocket like every other kit is desinged for. Or untell bike berry starts making reliable 26 x 2.5 wheel set kits with the sprockets installed already.

thanks again
 
ohh ok so a bit more researching , this is what ive learned, plz let me know if im wrong but from what i understand i should be able to use this wheel set
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GXZNPV...olid=2F5T1WZXOVPYZ&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

then i can use this adapter
https://www.amazon.com/CyclingDeal-...daptor&qid=1567784903&s=sporting-goods&sr=1-1

what would be the better tooth set ? 12 - 18 i would imagine 18 incase i have to ever pedal my bike home.

then i would just install the rear diskbrake like normal, and just attatch the engine sprocket like the instructions explain,
am i correct ? do you see any errors ?
 
breath_easy13 said:
gotch ya, I cant find a "motorized bike wheel" that has the engine sprocket already attached to the rear hub. I just notices how dff the pictures are, one says 150, and the other is 135.. huh thats funny. Well i wanted to get a wheel with the engine sprocket already attached bcuz its suppose to stand up against the engine power better and add support. i also dont see a spec on the frame on bikeberrry site, is this frame desinged for a 135 rear, or a 150 ? I emailed them asking what size tire could fit on the rear and the responded with 26 x 3 which is rad becasue i was hoping to put 26 x 2.25 on.

What wheel set did you use ? I would like to purchase a wheelset specifically designed for motor bikes, with the engine sprocket already attached to the hub, but most the wheel sets on bike berry the max tire width is like 1.95, this is the only set on amazon i found that had a tire size greater the 1.95, with the sprocket already attached.

Would i be better just contacting amazon and making sure they send me the free wheel coaster version wheel at 110 mm frame ?
My only concern is that these generic bike kits on amazon look like crap. I feel like i might just be better off, buying a reliable known brand wheel set like below
https://www.amazon.com/Mountain-Wheels-Disc-Shimano-Continental/dp/B07GXZNPV4/ref=sr_1_1?crid=1ESIJLCGQTHCC&keywords=26+inch+wheel+set&qid=1567775268&s=sporting-goods&sprefix=26+inch+wheel+,sporting,149&sr=1-1

and just attaching the engine sprocket like every other kit is desinged for. Or untell bike berry starts making reliable 26 x 2.5 wheel set kits with the sprockets installed already.

thanks again
Click to expand...

It's easy to put 200 lbs. of lead in a paper grocery sack but can you carry it home without tearing up the bag along the way? Big tires might fit inside the frame but clearing the frame and tire with both the pedal and drive chains is a big problem with wide tires. I understand what you want and am pretty certain what you are determined to try & with enough effort, time and expense you can probably get a 3" tire in a 110mm frame while using the 135 mm wide wheel and hub, but it won't be easy or fun. Look at the photos I posted and that shows 24" wheels with 1.95" tires & the chains only clear the tire on the engine drive side by 3/16" using the China girl 66cc motor anything much wider on a 26" rim is a problem for an experienced builder on this frame

Good luck on the build they are sweet when built right.

Rick C.
 
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